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Car will not hold memory on the key fob

Have you still got the full reset sequence please as I have the same problen
Fob programming procedure:

1. Turn ignition switch to ON position, marked II
2. Press the LOCK button
3. Turn ignition switch to OFF position, marked I

Repeat the process 2 more times, so 3 in total.

Next turn ignition switch to ON position, marked II. Press LOCK button and you should now hear the locks making a cycling sound indicating that the system has entered programming mode.

Press LOCK button again to program this fob. If you have any other fobs you must press the LOCK button on each, one after another and all within 10 seconds of each other (maximum of 3).

Turn off ignition and remove key. Test that fobs are now working.
 
Hi all i am new to this forum but i have had 2 type rs before and now on my third but never been on this forum.

I have had this problem before and i no the answer to your problem. This usually occurs when the car battery has been changed or has run flat. As mentioned above it is the keyless entry unit thats at fault. This is a little black box situated behind the stereo part of the dash on right hand side. It is quite easy to access once you have removed that part. The box itself is small in size and has a green connector plugged into it, it also states "keyless Entry" you cant miss it

Honda charged me £120 and still could not diagnose the problem. so i managed to figure it out myself.

I managed to rip one out of car in a scrapy and fitted it myself, once fitted just recode the keyfob using the recoding sequence you mentioned above and your done! just test the alarm to make sure the siren works as sometime the siren battery may run flat and may need changing.

If you still cant get hold of one just drop me a pm and i will see if i can get hold off one for you, it cost me £80 which i was more than happy to pay as honda quoted me £180 plus fitting.

Could you help me please I have this problem and need to source the keyless entry unit thanks
 
Fob programming procedure:

1. Turn ignition switch to ON position, marked II
2. Press the LOCK button
3. Turn ignition switch to OFF position, marked I

Repeat the process 2 more times, so 3 in total.

Next turn ignition switch to ON position, marked II. Press LOCK button and you should now hear the locks making a cycling sound indicating that the system has entered programming mode.

Press LOCK button again to program this fob. If you have any other fobs you must press the LOCK button on each, one after another and all within 10 seconds of each other (maximum of 3).

Turn off ignition and remove key. Test that fobs are now working.

Thank you
 
Hello, first time here but my Honda garage are telling me that I'm having this problem on my 54 Type-S. It sounds to me like there's going to be a battery inside the keyless entry unit that needs replacing but I can't quite work out what I need to do to get to it. Would anybody be able to point me toward a more detailed break down of how to get to the unit or at least a photo of one so I know what to look for?

From what I'm seeing here, it sounds like I should be taking apart the dashboard as if I were removing the stereo (which I need to do anyway soon enough so I may as well) and I'll find a box that says keyless entry in there. Does that sound right? Thanks.
 
The keyless entry unit is an ECU. There's no battery inside.
What I guess is that the keyless entry unit either goes faulty or locks out when the battery goes flat and the alarm set off. Honda maybe able to release the keyless entry unit with their diagnostic machine. But expect to pay their £50-80 diag fee. Buy a second hand unit for £10. Job done.


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OK, I just crawled into driver's footwell and had a look behind the stereo. I'm seeing a little black box with a bright green connector but I can't see any of the stickers on the photos in that post. Is it probably that or am I looking at the wrong thing?
 
Sounds like you're looking at the right thing

I think I might not be. On closer inspection it has a lever arm coming out of it, which definitely doesn't sound right. Coming at it from the glove compartment also yields a black box with a green connector which probably isn't it. I'm going to call it a bust and go for taking out the stereo, soon as I find a spudger
 
I managed to get on mine by taking off the fuse covers and then taking the lower cover off for the gearstick off. The other parts you're seeing are probably heater flap motors.


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OK, it wasn't the one I was looking at. There's a little panel under the steering wheel that you have to open and looking through that hole will reveal the correct green connector (as opposed to the gap further down which I was looking through). It's hooked onto a little bracket and all you have to do is unplug it and lift it off the bracket.

And yes, you're quite right, there's nothing remotely like a replaceable battery inside. My guess is that the car battery going flat somehow uselesses the relay in the unit but you would need some mad soldering skills to find out if that's fixable and it's prob not worth it.

Not to mention that actually getting to the unit is finicky as all hell.
 
On some alarm systems the battery backup is in the siren unit itself.
 
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