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DC5R won't start after adjusting valve clearances

The One

The One

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45
Adjusted the valve to rocker clearance today on my 02 DC5R with the K20A engine of course! So I first adjusted the clearances to what was recommended on a few sites, which is: Intake valves 0.008" - 0.010" and exhaust valves 0.011" - 0.013". I did this in the recommended way by doing piston 1 then 3 then 4 then 2. put it all back together and then turned the key, it was hesitant to start but it did then went to the usual rpm of a cold engine. So to see if it would be hessitant again I turned it off and when I tried to start it again it wouldn't start only turn over and over and over but no start. I then on recommendation from my mechanic mate I readjusted all the valves back to where I found them which was Intake valves 0.015" and exhaust valves 0.018" but still no start ](*,) It sounds like its not getting fuel or maybe a spark, I'll be checking these in the morning but has anybody out there ever experianced this problem after doing the valve adjustment??????
 
ya i hadn't run the car at all the day i adjusted them. its buggin me because it hasn't missed a beat ever! i'm gonna check plugs, fuel, immobiliser and fuses now i'll keep ye posted. any body got the exact tolerences for the type r engine as the specs i used are for the k20a2 type s rsx engine!
 
Copied and pasted from the Teg forum:

Right just a nice quick write up, those pics are better than the ones i have, so i wont bother posting my pics.

Ok, to start with, you need to remove the cam cover, so plastic spark cover trim off, remover the coil packs, leave the spark plugs in! Take the breather pipe off thats attached to the filter. Basicly anything is holding the cover in place.

The cover should just lift striaght off, just be very careful not to drop anything into the engine, i.e, screws, bolts etc

Ok, next, on the photo above you see the cams, closer set are the intake, further away are the exhaust!

Settings i used where, intake clearance 0.08 or 0.21mm and exhaust 0.10 or 0.25 mm

OK Now you need the cam lobe to be in the "up" position, so that the clearance on the valve can be set. The tricky part i found was moving the cam, so i was taught to, take the handbrake off, and put the car in to 2nd gear.

Now if you move the car backwards or forwards, the cams rotate.

So starting with the intake side, get the cam in the correct position to the valve, i.e. the cam is in the high position, furthest away from the valve, if you understand me

Ok now with the correct feeler gauge, push this in between the valve and the adjuster. (looking at the close up picture, the feeler gauge goes between the round disc and the screw!)

If alteration is needed, undone the bolt and tighten/loosen the slotted screw accordingly. Correct position is when you can feel the feeler gauge is just being held in place but still able to move it. Hard to explain but i am sure you understand :lol:

When the correct clearance is set, tighten back up the bolt, but be sure to check the clearance after as the bolt can alter the gap, sometimes, you need to compensate for this when tightening!

So there are 2 valves per cam lobe. So when those 2 are set move on to the next set, moving the car backwards or forwards again whilst still in 2nd moves the cam to the desired position, and the next set of clearance can be set.

Same to be done on the exhaust valves too. These are a little trickier to get to due to them being at the back, but with some feeler gauges you can bend into place, its a bit easier!

Then your done, put it all back together.

It is pretty simple, but i am really crap at explaining things! :lol:

But i tried, so hope that is of a little bit of help!

If i did miss anything out, or anyone disagrees with anything i have done, i am sure they wil speak up.

Hope that helps a little :)
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Then I'd get it to a garage mate, something isn't right. Have you don all the basics like checking the plugs etc?
 
ya just checked plugs, spark, fuel and fuses. i'm thinking it might be flooded so i've the plugs out gonna let the cylinde's dry out a bit see if that helps.
 
Problem solved:D car is running sweet again. The problem was with the feeler gauges which I had bought at a halfords shop. The package said they were imperial but, no, they were actually a metric set in an imperial package, bastards:evil:. So I set the clearances to IMPERIAL measurements and after a bit of fiddling about, because the engine had flooded after all the turning over, it started and runs as normal now. So a little lesson for me and everyone else is, check and check again!
 
Metric set of gauges in a box labelled imperial? A polite letter of complaint to Halfords for mis-description of goods and your time wasted.
 
dragonflyjade said:
Metric set of gauges in a box labelled imperial? A polite letter of complaint to Halfords for mis-description of goods and your time wasted.
Click to expand...

If you also state the trouble this has put you in, car off the road for x amount of days etc, I'm sure they will offer some form of compensation. Especially if you politely demand it!
 
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