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EP3 Decisions Decisions...

Messages
221
Afternoon gentlemen,


I'm back, if anyone remembers me :lol:


Little bit of advice if possible, more of a 'what would you do' in regards to purchasing an EP3. My last one i owned was about 4-5 years ago and was an 05MY. Ive got 3 lined up to look at this weekend which consist of:


1 - 51 Plate Satin Silver with 66k, bog-standard with FSH and extremely well looked after by a technician i work with (i'm not a tech though) who is also a 'Honda nut', the car itself is in pretty good nick, wheels are slightly messy and i'm worried about corrosion being a 2001 car but he will sell it to me for £2.5k


2 - 04 plate NHB with 89k, FSH, with minor mod of Spoon N1 and HID's, paint work looks clean from the pictures but there are some minor scuffs present, being advised no corrosion. £3.5k but located in cumbria which is 6hrs away from me :eek:


3- 05 plate Satin Silver Premier Edition, 92k, FSH with some lovely mods (intake, lowered, FRSU) - paint work looks lovely from the pictures and been advised no corrosion etc - £4.5k


My limit is £4.5k and initially i wanted Satin Silver like my old one but this time round a Premier Edition or 30th Anniversary, but after seeing a couple in NHB which look fantastic when cleaned, polished etc.


My question is a difficult one as, i could go for the 51 plate and have £2k left for mods, 04 NHB which would leave me with £1k for mods or the 05 Satin Silver Prem which would leave me with no money for mods but has been already tastefully modded. (although this one is in Glasgow!! :( but have made arrangements to view it)


I'm definitely going to view them all obviously.


Ideally i wanted to get a set of Evo 8 alloys and get them refurb'd in bronze like my original car:


5849552783_53129bfdfc_b.jpg



Any advice would be appreciated but i know at the end of the day it comes down to my personal preference but wouldn't hurt to hear your thoughts..


its good to be back by the way :smt047


Ady.
 
51 or the prem IMO.

Low milage on the pre-face, if it's tidy then great. I'd avoid the NHB, spoon N1 and HIDS scream chav so I'd not even bother viewing personally... but I am extremely picky. My top pick would be the prem, depending on exactly what mods are on it.
 
51 or the prem IMO.

Low milage on the pre-face, if it's tidy then great. I'd avoid the NHB, spoon N1 and HIDS scream chav so I'd not even bother viewing personally... but I am extremely picky. My top pick would be the prem, depending on exactly what mods are on it.

+1 totally agree
 
I agree with Hazz. I'd want the prem to be honest, even if the pre is a nice one, it's getting on a bit and the prem is last of the run.
 
Right so I have been to see the 51 pre facelift tonight and best way to describe it is 'barn find' I suppose. Paint work exterior wise is immaculate, I counted 10 stone chips to front bumper and bonnet. Interior is nearly as new. The car has been sat for 6 months on his drive so there is green growing on along window edges (on seals etc) and some green growth on spoiler gaps etc, not huge amounts but you can see it. No corrosion to arches what so ever as all liners were removed when car was purchased and treated. Engine bay has its fair amount of corrosion but not on the body just on components, like the engine mounting brackets, clamps and on some pipes, top of suspension struts. Brakes are corroded but I suspect just surface rust, and hand brake has been left off which is good.

I'm now in such a dilemma as yes car is theoretically mint but needs heavy cleaning, and in regards to around Windows, door handles etc I wouldn't know how to remove it, would I have to remove door handles, glass etc to do a proper job, and if so is this a fairly easy task?

Help!


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If it was me I'd de looking at the 51 it sounds like a good car. I'd be wanting the most standard car you can get that's what I did with my race car I got a 2 mature owner car base car.
 
I'm now in such a dilemma as yes car is theoretically mint but needs heavy cleaning, and in regards to around Windows, door handles etc I wouldn't know how to remove it, would I have to remove door handles, glass etc to do a proper job, and if so is this a fairly easy task?

Is it not just a case of a good soapy wash and maybe a detailing brush or something to get any fiddly bits? I would have thought giving it a good wash would pretty much get all that green crap off.
 
Is it not just a case of a good soapy wash and maybe a detailing brush or something to get any fiddly bits? I would have thought giving it a good wash would pretty much get all that green crap off.
Theres is a lot behind the rear windows in the recess so not sure if i woukd have to remove the glass to get at it properly and also in the exterior door handle surrounds which i also assume i would also have to remove. Also o would need to kill it otherwise im sire it would grow back. Im do dabble in detailling but have this would be new to me if i went for it. Also found out the premier one has got corrosiom in rear wheel arches and a couple of dings but not sure if this is enough to sway it. The thing is woth the 51 plate i would be left with 2.5k for mods and tidying it up which is kinda exciting on its own...but still cant decide!

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51 or the prem IMO.

Low milage on the pre-face, if it's tidy then great. I'd avoid the NHB, spoon N1 and HIDS scream chav so I'd not even bother viewing personally... but I am extremely picky. My top pick would be the prem, depending on exactly what mods are on it.
Frsu, lowered, hids and tegiwa intake

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I wouldn't worry about the green mould.

Comes off cars pretty easy tbh with the right stuff.

A reasonably strong mix of Bilt Hamber Auto Foam thro a lance or a strong APC should loosen it nicely - leave 5 mins (out of the sun) and agitate with a detailing brush.
I've done a few and you might just laugh at how simple it is (I hope) :)
 
Frsu, lowered, hids and tegiwa intake

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What camber arms, who did the FRSU & what settings, what make of springs & is the HID conversion done to a legal standard?
 
What camber arms, who did the FRSU & what settings, what make of springs & is the HID conversion done to a legal standard?

Well....I did end up buying a Type R but none of the ones I was going to or had looked at

Got myself a 55 plate Premier with 54k on the clock, I knew it had some mods but I think it has more than what was disclosed.


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Nice low milage, good work!

Cheers Hazz,

I know the car came with a Tegiwa intake, front strut bar, lowered on eibachs and Mitsubishi evo 9 (I think) alloys. After reading through the paperwork though it looks like Hond-R have fitted the springs, Skunk 2 camber arms and a DC5 PRC intake manifold.

There then are invoices from indigo-gt for power flex engine inserts, gearbox top mount and Hondata remap?

And finally a graph from tdi north showing 246.6 bhp but this was 2 years ago so don't know if still current for car? As I don't know if the manifold or remap are still on car?




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Take a pic of the 'bay I'll let you know.

Nothing wrong with tegiwa intake, it's made under licence.

Strut brace if tegiwa is useless I'm afraid. Eibachs and skunk 2 is spot on stuff.

246.6 is about right for intake/exhaust manifolds. When (what rpm) does vtec kick in? That'll usually be a reliable indication as to whether it's mapped or not.
 
Take a pic of the 'bay I'll let you know.

Nothing wrong with tegiwa intake, it's made under licence.

Strut brace if tegiwa is useless I'm afraid. Eibachs and skunk 2 is spot on stuff.

246.6 is about right for intake/exhaust manifolds. When (what rpm) does vtec kick in? That'll usually be a reliable indication as to whether it's mapped or not.

Tegiwa will probably going when I finally get my mitts on an ARC intake. Strut brace is unbranded from what I can see.

I have literally only driven in once since I got the car back, and tbh I couldn't hear it really kick in, where as when I had my ARC intake on previous civic there was a loud distinct noise at the crossover point, i think it feels around 6k which I thought was the standard rev point but will need to take her back out to confirm.


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You'll struggle TBH, they're rare AF after going out of business a few years ago. And they're utter garbage for the price too. Foam filter (useless) and zero thought put into airflow. The tegiwa is a better piece of kit for everything but JDM points IMO.

If it's 6k it might well have had the OEM ECU put back. You can always unplug it and open it up to see. It's not hard to do and there's little to no risk involved (some people freak out when opening something like an ECU).
 
You'll struggle TBH, they're rare AF after going out of business a few years ago. And they're utter garbage for the price too. Foam filter (useless) and zero thought put into airflow. The tegiwa is a better piece of kit for everything but JDM points IMO.

If it's 6k it might well have had the OEM ECU put back. You can always unplug it and open it up to see. It's not hard to do and there's little to no risk involved (some people freak out when opening something like an ECU).

Ok might have a look at the Ecu at some point then, could it have been the original Ecu but remapped or is that not possible?

Not having a Tegiwa one before should they make a 'distinct noise' on crossover?


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