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Ep3 feels sluggish (i think) after a rebuild

I

iby_ep3

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52
Hi im not new to the forum i just havent been on it for quite some time.
My names iby :)

I have 2005 ep3 with 73k on the clock. I have an issue see if anyone can help with.

Ive just had my engine rebuilt.

New piston rings
New valves
Valve stem seals
Valve springs
Timing chain guides and tenstioner
Headgasket
Fuchs titan pro racing oil
Hamps filter

Problem was bent valves on cylinder 2.

Anyway after the build ive done 100miles so far. My ep3 which ive owned for 5 years now feels slightly sulggish it seems it takes ages to warm up and it the temp needle seems to sit lower then usual
Heaters seem a little less warm.

I dont know what it is as theres no lights on dash.

It seems to feel a bit restricted the usual.

Only mod on car is a buddyclub pro spec cat back and that ive had on for 3 years.

Any one any ideas what it is it could be? Or am i overthinking it?
 
Almost certainly an airlock causing your heater / temp problems.

Maybe do a compression test just to be sure it's running full power

Also double check timing marks. A tooth out would lose you power.
 
Thank you for your reply.

Ive got a compression tester and will do that today and post back.

For the air lock how can i get rid of that?

The timing is this something i can check my self? Or is it best to take it back to where i got it built from?

I definatley feel lack of power i thought it could be because it all needs embedding.

What a pain its becoming.
 
iby_ep3 said:
Thank you for your reply.

Ive got a compression tester and will do that today and post back.

For the air lock how can i get rid of that?

The timing is this something i can check my self? Or is it best to take it back to where i got it built from?

I definatley feel lack of power i thought it could be because it all needs embedding.

What a pain its becoming.
Click to expand...

Undo your radiator cap and run your engine,squeeze top and bottom radiator pipes
 
Will try that in the morning. Cheers mate. Any more suggestions anyone, ** post back once i know more. Thanks.
 
Who did the rebuild?

Unfortunately the K20, F20 and B series engines are not simple to rebuild and quite often the usual sort of garages make fatal mistakes.
 
What kind of mistakes Chris?

Nuttalls in darwen did the build, i have spoken to them and explained it briefly that we need to re check timing so its going there tomorrow.
 
Image of my temprature, is the needle showing correct?

Attached is a screen shot of my temp. Is it showing correct? Or is it too low? Let us know please
 

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iby_ep3 said:
Attached is a screen shot of my temp. Is it showing correct? Or is it too low? Let us know please
Click to expand...

Looks spot on temperature mate. Mine sits in the same place as that when warm. However if that is a screen shot once the car is fully warm then it's idling a bit too high at 1000rpm
 
Ye fully warm. I think its running a little rich. What should it idle at? Cheers Ricki for your reply ,

If it is running rich i know its no good for the piston rings. It cant be a the lbda sensor because theres no eml on. What else can i check ? Its going back to where it got built tomorrow at 10.30am.

Thanks.
 
Mine sits at around 750 - 800 rpm when warm mate. I'm not sure what else to check at the moment but see what they say when you take it back. Hopefully they can sort it for you. I would recommend after a engine rebuild at a 1000 miles or so to put some engine flush through it and change the oil and filter again to get rid of any diposits.
 
Yep thats the plan, was going to change the oil and filter after 500miles to be honest.

Main thing i want to find out is why its just not reving quick enough. Its like its taking ages to hit the limiter. Vtec definatley kicks in
But ive not tried it properly as i dont want to warp anything.

Im going to get the following done

Compression test
Check for any leaks from Headgasket
Check timing
Check valve adjustments
Finally get it on a dyno and see what its pushing out.

** keep this thread updated incase anyone comes across any issues in future they know what the fix is.

Cheers.
 
Hang on, you've had new piston rings and you're taking it to the limiter? Not sure that's the best idea myself. I'd be keeping it below 4,000rpm for the first 1000 miles myself.
 
If you've had rings fitted. The bores should of had a honing tool run inside them. Then you need to put in mineral/running in oil and drive the engine under some load and limited revs to allow the rings to bed into the bores for a few hundred miles. Then change the oil and oil filter to your usual stuff.
If this isn't done, you run the risk of not bedding in the rings and consequently having low compression.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for your replys. Ive done a compression test on it and its showing

Cylinder 1 170
Cylinder 2 150
Cylinder 3 180
Cylinder 4 180
 
Figures look about right. Bit concerning though that the cylinder that was damaged it showing 20-30psi less.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The margin it should be is anything above 134, im not convincing my self that it is right with it showing 20-30 psi less but i feel a little stuck as to what i should do now?

The temp is right.
The rpms are between 750-800
 
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