just bought an ep3 type are and love it, its an 04 plate with 86k miles full service history. bit disappointed that these cars as getting on a bit now but i know people say the engines last forever if properly cared for but is there anyone here that has a high miler of these around 120k+ that can confirm this? also what are the typical maintenance you should do with this car? after going through my paperwork it came with it just shows the regular basic oil and filter services and nothing of anything special really.
EP3 Type R Maintenance?
- Thread starter Islayer
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There are various suggestions at particular points, fuel filter at 75k, coolant at 120k, check and possibly replace timing chain at 100k.
When I buy one I generally replace the standards straight off, oil, filter, air filter, plugs, gearbox oil, brake fluid (and possibly discs/pads at the same time). Then I look a little deeper at things that may need work like the engine mounts, clutch, see if the master or slave cylinder are leaking, look for other leaks too (drive shaft seals from gearbox, main bearing seal etc.)
They are a quite rugged engine but they do have issues, the chassis too. Rust in rear wheel arches, leaks into the rear from rear light seals or boot seals. Possibility of seized rear calipers (generally not the fronts, oddly). Maybe someone put the wrong battery in (since it's reversed compared to common types) and so the terminals are dragged across the top of the battery and sit under the bonnet strut.
If it's had a hard life there's a chance the synchro in second (and maybe 4th, possibly others too) is worn and so shifting can be a bit "notchy".
How would you know it's been well cared-for though? All you can do is make sure you take care of it, and make sure it's in as good a state as you can afford from when you get it.
Enjoy the car though, they're a ridiculous amount of fun and should last a long time if you're careful.
When I buy one I generally replace the standards straight off, oil, filter, air filter, plugs, gearbox oil, brake fluid (and possibly discs/pads at the same time). Then I look a little deeper at things that may need work like the engine mounts, clutch, see if the master or slave cylinder are leaking, look for other leaks too (drive shaft seals from gearbox, main bearing seal etc.)
They are a quite rugged engine but they do have issues, the chassis too. Rust in rear wheel arches, leaks into the rear from rear light seals or boot seals. Possibility of seized rear calipers (generally not the fronts, oddly). Maybe someone put the wrong battery in (since it's reversed compared to common types) and so the terminals are dragged across the top of the battery and sit under the bonnet strut.
If it's had a hard life there's a chance the synchro in second (and maybe 4th, possibly others too) is worn and so shifting can be a bit "notchy".
How would you know it's been well cared-for though? All you can do is make sure you take care of it, and make sure it's in as good a state as you can afford from when you get it.
Enjoy the car though, they're a ridiculous amount of fun and should last a long time if you're careful.
Thanks for reply, gear changes are fine clutch probably could do with a change as the biting point is very low and gear changes after VTEC are a bit tough. Also the other day when I drove it everytime I would have to stop at a roundabout or anything the revs would drop and car felt like it was going to stall, but yesterday it was fine and then this morning it did the complete opposite and the engine would rev a bit when I stopped but that went after 10 minutes.
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The rev drop/raise could be the idle air control valve - https://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/...P3-Dreaded-idle-hunting-1-500-2-000-A-thought
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I would say your clutch could do with changing but it won't really get any worse than you describe. The pressure plate fails which is what causes the heavy pedal and low biting point.
Our track EP3 has 138k on it, done about 1200 miles of track driving and it's been perfectly fine to say it just stands in between track days. Just do the checks as Mike.H mentioned above and also keep on top of anything you know to need changing etc and you'll be fine.
Our track EP3 has 138k on it, done about 1200 miles of track driving and it's been perfectly fine to say it just stands in between track days. Just do the checks as Mike.H mentioned above and also keep on top of anything you know to need changing etc and you'll be fine.
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Mine's on about 113k, usual regular servicing aside it had the timing chain etc done at about 105k along with valve clearances. It did well on the dyno after recently putting a supercharger on it, it was compression tested as part of that work - all cylinders well within spec and reasonably equal, the car seems to be soaking up the miles quite well considering how I treat it.
Saying that I do tend to over-service it and do far too much preventative maintenance (read: buy new shiny parts it doesn't really need) but if that equates to a reliable motor I'll keep throwing the cash at it.
I agree with Mike - as long as the engine's been looked after the chassis\body and running gear are much more likely to be displaying signs of age from what I've seen with mine and others.
Saying that I do tend to over-service it and do far too much preventative maintenance (read: buy new shiny parts it doesn't really need) but if that equates to a reliable motor I'll keep throwing the cash at it.
I agree with Mike - as long as the engine's been looked after the chassis\body and running gear are much more likely to be displaying signs of age from what I've seen with mine and others.