Help Getting The R Back On Road..

[ShaunCTR]

Right I'm going to need a bit of advice help from the font of knowledge from you lot...

The 'R' has been stood for well over a year due to unforseen circumstances.

It's going back on the road in the very near future well hopefully by the end of next month however what I need to know is...
What will need changing/cleaning etc, this is what I had in mind...

Change Engine Oil - Motul 8100 5W/40
Oil Filter - Hamp
Plugs - Laser Plugs
Gear Box Oil - Honda MTF-3
Brake Fluid - Motul RBF 600 1L
Change discs/pads all round - Not sure what with yet so recommendations welcome
Service The ITG Maxogen
Clean IAV/TB
Also will I need to have the fuel tank and lines flushed? (There was next to no fuel in it when it came off road)

Any all help would be much appreciated,

Thanks in advance :smt023

 

[Hazz]

Top your battery waters up & charge for a start!

Depends what fuel you had in pal, V-power gums up like no other. If you're on 95 ron it might be ok just to flush through.

Plugs should be fine if they were before. G'box oil should be ok if it was before.

I'd change engine oil and filter as a precaution.

I'd also take out the plugs & put half a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and then turn the engine over on the starter motor for 30 seconds. This makes sure everything is nicely lubed up before you fire the engine.

Cleaning TB and IAV, do it if it's running rough/hunting but I wouldn't just do it for the sake of doing it.

Try your brakes first, if you're unlucky the pads might have taken on water but should be OK. If they have, they'll feel really spongy. Discs should be alright unless they are mega corroded, they will be rusty but a little surface rust isn't worth worrying about. Brake fluid might not be a bad idea, especially if it was old before you left it sitting. Biggest worry with brakes is caliper pistons seizing... you'd know about that when you pressed your brake pedal.

Check your radiator coolant.

Hope that helps.

 

[ShaunCTR]

Thanks for the reply Hazz,

Yeah the idle is hunting mate going upto approx 2.5k then dropping to 1k constantly. I've already started the engine and given it a few very small blips to try and free the IAV up but to no avail. This wouldn't of damaged the engine would it with me not doing as you say with the tea spoon of oil in each cylinder?

The brakes free'd up nice however I could hear rubbing on the discs do you think pistons have seized?, or how will I tell if brakes are knackered i.e. pads taken on water, pistons seized etc?

Thanks,

Shaun

 

[Hazz]

Try unplugging your ECU fuse for 10 seconds, restart your car and give it a 10 minute drive. If it's still hunting then I'd give the ICV a clean, TB should be last port of call IMO.

 

[ShaunCTR]

Yeah did that bud but haven't drove it as my @rse fell out and I didn't want to destroy a perfectly running engine (prior to park up).

Any recommendations on discs & pads mate?

 

[Hazz]

Hunting isn't usually anything major mate I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Pistons could have seized slightly, if it's driveable & and the brakes are working I'd be tempted to just give it a good run, if you can get a clear peice of road to test on, keep dabbing your brakes. What tends to happen is you get a thin surface rust coating which shifts easily and then where the piston was stopped in the bore you get a thicker ring of rust where it binds up.

 

[rossy t]

shaun, try not to worry too much. i have first hand experience of a 2003 BMW, similar age to your EP3 i guess. anyway, this car had done moon mileage then it was parked up and left for about 20 months. no precautions were taken. it was literally locked and forgotten about.

i got there and obviously battery dead so i jump start it. there was some water left in the coolant resevoir so i fired it up. the engine started immediately but sounded bad. it was a 6 cyl petrol and it was tappety to f@ck. like an old 1.3 fiesta. engine management light were on, fault coded it was because some of the ignition coils had gone (on this bmw they are individual ignition coils per cylinder not a coil pack). i left it running for 5 minutes and it got slightly better but i thought the thing was a breaker.

got it low loaded to my mechanic and he gives me a call later that day, i expected him to say what a piece of crap engine ruined. infact he says "yeah i just got it back from MOT, no advisories, i thought you told me this thing was knackered?" we changed all the ignition coils as i couldn't be doing with faffing around and put new engine oil. the car has since done 30k with no problems. i should say the tyres were a bit flatspotted but after a few hundred miles came back to life.

 

[ShaunCTR]

I hope your right Rossy, cheers bud