• Registered users are encouraged to enable MFA/2FA to add an aditional layer of security to their account. More information can be found here: https://www.ncsc.gov.uk/collection/top-tips-for-staying-secure-online/activate-2-step-verification-on-your-email

EP3 Idle issues after remap and 3 weeks standing

Norv

Norv

Messages
1,161
I've had a CPL reflash while I was away for 3 weeks on holiday. Came back and refitted the Ecu. Idle was all over the place which it had done previously after being stood for 2 weeks.

I removed the throttle body and then the idle control valve on the bottom making sure the rotary part was clean and spinning freely (it was a bit notchy) cleaned it all with carb cleaner and refit it, left it 2 days then did the idle teach routine (remove fuse 6, 3k revs until fans, then idle 10mins). The next morning it was the same, cold start around 2k, when ever the revs should drop to a sensible idle when cold it sits at 2.5k for about 10 secs then finds itself again.

I've taken the throttle body off again tonight, cleaned the rotary part with brake cleaner and refit and taught it again, fault remains. It's okay when warm, but cold it's running silly high revs.

Could this be because I've only cleaned it with fluid and cotton buds and it needs a small wire brush in case the faces have burred slightly and causing a rough spot? Or could it be anything to do with the reflash?

I'm going to buy a little wire brush set to try again in the mean time but it's doing my head in now! I've even looked up the price of a new one! £285 on lings! Got to be worth cleaning again before forking out.

7a4343b22632df11ae671aee856a3f11.jpg


Just to clarify, I've taken the bottom part off and stripped it as far as I can and then cleaned the faces of the spinning part and the housing.

This is now driving me insane as I mainly do short journeys and it's like having cruise control trying to kill me everytime I go slow in a higher gear!

Cheers, Mark.

Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
 
Could well be the TPS is not being recognised by the re-flash, or the voltages haven't been setup correctly. Get an Ammeter and read the voltage across it. It should be 0.45 on closed throttle, and around 4.5v on wide open throttle. If you search Google for ways to test TPS, there's loads of good pages. ;)
 
Yeah I've seen about the TPS previously, but would just having been sat for 3 weeks with no Ecu on it cause the TPS values to change?

I can't see how a reflash would cause all this when I did find the ICV spinning part to be tight in places.

I'll test the TPS voltages though mate, thanks for the input.

Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
 
Do the symptoms sound right? Idle high when cold, with a ten seconds delay before correct idle speed. Seems fine when warm and I can't keep thrashing it around hoping that will fix it! Cheers.

Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
 
If its been sat a while It could very well just need a good long drive my new ep3 did it when I first bought it... had been sat for ages on a forecourt after a couple of long runs its now spot on idles perfect... give it a try before condemning anything :)
 
I've done 110 miles! Lots of that has been driving hard. Others cruising for 30 min stints.

It's more than that as previously I have had idle issues, either a quick thrash sorted it. Or the time before I had the reflash a clean of the ICV worked a treat. Even with a 3 mile drive afterwards.

I'm thinking it's something to do with the map myself. It's the only thing that was changed.

Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
 
Definitely sounds like the idle control valve... could just be worth replacing it if its not improving.

Also check for vacuum pipe leaks :) or a split in any of the pipes/airbox feed pipe, gaskets... basically anything that could upset the afr.

P.s - if its only done it since remap I would be taking it back personally and get them to sort it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It's had a different complete throttle body on, with all sensors. I cleaned the second ICV before fitting.

I've got a thermal gasket to fit and I'll test for any leaks after the throttle body. Strange to have happened only when being parked up though!

Remap was a postal reflash with mild tune, CPL have been very helpful and can't see how it would have messed the idle up at all. I'll try again early next week!

Stupid thing, I'll get an obd reader on it to see if anything else is a miss.

Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
 
Idle issues can be a pain in the rs mate but if you've replaced/cleaned all the other parts it could quite possibly be a vacuum leak which is weakening your afr and causing the idle probs... but also check the wiring as well as dodgy electrics can also cause the issue... hope this helps mate.... nothing more annoying than a car that cuts out or wants to.

I had this issue on my old mg zs 180 and it was the iacv, but also the plastic vvt style manifold was getting rogered and making the issue worse... sounded like the tappets needed adjusting!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hopefully I'll have an update for this early next week then. Bit of brake cleaner should show up any intake leaks easily enough!



Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
 
I've now checked the inlet system for leaks by spraying brake cleaner around everything, no change to engine revs or tone at all. So even with a complete replacement throttle body, the fault is still there.

I'm starting to get annoyed with this now, so my options seem to be either try another Ecu or get a full custom remap and hope they can find the issue and sort it out.

Has anyone got an Ecu with immo delete I could borrow just to start the engine for a few mins? I'd be happy to meet somewhere and cover the costs?

If anyone had any other ideas I'd be very glad to hear them!

Just to be clear, when first starting it, the revs go to about 3k, then settle to 2.5k ish. If you so much as touch the throttle cable, the revs go back to 3k for 5 secs, then around 2k again. When warm, if you blip the revs, they drop back to 2k, then 900 then blips itself back to 1.5k before settling at idle. I'll do a video next time I drive it. I can't see how that's normal with a remap!

Cheers, Mark.

Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
 
Bump. Anyone got any ideas? Or an immo free Ecu I can borrow?

Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
 
o2 sensor??? sounds a tricky one does this not sure if o2 sensor would cause this... blocked cat ??? dirty fuel filter ??? sticking throttle cable / assembly ??? sorry clutching at straws here
 
Are you sure about vacuum leaks? I took my intake manifold off to change the knock sensor and forgot to reattach the vacuum from the manifold to the water pump and the symptoms sound identical
 
I forgot to update this, sorry. I clamped the pipe from the idle assist valve and the fault is all but gone now. I will remove the valve and blank the ports, k tuned do a delete kit but it's £20 and a 3/8 npt bung is only £2 so I'll make my own!

Thanks for the help with this.

Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
 
Nice one mate, glad you finally got to the bottom of it, I hate problems like this they are a pain !!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top