Induction Kit.

[bendycivic]

Just got a Pipercross Viper induction kit and i can notice a very slight difference but was wondering if this was the right choice?
Also was wanting to know what to do next? :lol:

 

[Chris.]

Is that the big box that looks like something out of Star Trek?

 

[Jermal]

If you want noticeable gains, you need a Cold Air Induction kit (CAI) The two main ones for the CTR are the AEM long ram and the Gruppe M. The latter is probably better, but is more exspensive.

From induction alone, you wont notice much gain, apart from the noise :twisted:

 

[bendycivic]

Moved.

Cheers:sheep:

If you want noticeable gains, you need a Cold Air Induction kit (CAI) The two main ones for the CTR are the AEM long ram and the Gruppe M. The latter is probably better, but is more exspensive.

From induction alone, you wont notice much gain, apart from the noise :twisted:

It is a cold air induction kit. Im using the original cold air intake position that is just behind the grill. I will upload a picture once i get them on my P.C.
What would you recommend as my next performance mod on a budget of about 300quid.

 

[Chris.]

Camber bolts and a fast road setup from Center Gravity.

 

[bendycivic]

Camber bolts and a fast road setup from Center Gravity.

You can tell im a novice Type r owner cos of what im about to ask.
What effect will that have?
Where can i get it?
How much will it cost?
This is the reason I joined this site. Cheers:smt100:smt115:smt086

 

[Chris.]

http://www.centergravity.co.uk/

Camber bolts can be bought of one of the numerous traders on this site. You'll need them for front and rear if you have standard suspension. Basically camber and toe are adjusted on the suspension (stock geometry can be shocking and quite frankly dangerous on some Honda's) to give the car a much better feel round the twisty bits. It's very much worth every single penny.

Alternatively you could go to TGM Sport in Fleet.

 

[Jermal]

You can tell im a novice Type r owner cos of what im about to ask.
What effect will that have?
Where can i get it?
How much will it cost?
This is the reason I joined this site. Cheers:smt100:smt115:smt086

Basically it's called a fast road setup. aftermarket camber bolts allows you to adjust the camber of your wheels. The CTR has a notoriously twitchy back end under heavy breaking and being a front wheel drive car with a front mounted engine suffers from understeer. Fitting camber adjusters and having them set up correctly will help to rectify these.

You can get them from various performance websites, TGM, TDi North, CPL etc. or on ebay.

you want to search for Eibach or SPC. There are other makes, but I can't remember off the top of my head.

 

[G]

I would only fit them if I was lowering the car by over 28mm or more, I would not start putting in any more camber than you have providing the car is within spec (I take it the car is not lowered at the moment?). By all means have the geometry checked to make sure it is within spec as a few older cars like ours '02 or earlier did suffer from a defect which meant the car came from the factory with an incorrect alignment.

A better bet would be to get on a club Track day run by the likes of Hondas On Track, that way you can better see what you and the car an do, and that way will have more of an understanding on what to look for when you start fiddling about with the chassis set up.

Then a good a mod a JDM rear anti roll bar from the Japanese Civic Type R which is a few mm thicker and is a good and cost effective mod to firm the rear and make it a we bit more predictable.

Or you could slap on a decent sounding exhaust system,(if you have not gotten one already) ok at this stage it will not improve performance, but will sound nice and make you smile... if you like that sort of thing, and after all mods should also be fun

 

[bendycivic]

The only mod i have done so far is the cold air induction kit. i'm thinking about getting an exhuast but i don't want one that is going to make it sound like a wet fart or some barry boy in his nova with a big bore 4 on, if you know what i mean.

Didnt know if it was worth saving about 6 grand over the year and getting it supercharged. Only problem is i use it everyday?

 

[G]

I know what you mean but the good thing about the CTR is there are plenty of systems to choose from that are of excellent quality and you can pretty mutch get the sound and look you want.

As far as the Supercharger goes, well I ran one for over two years and commuted put 30k miles on it in that time. I would say it will increase wear on the engine components. I am now back to an N/A set up and to be honest I enjoy it more, I prefer the engine note and response. Also unless you are a competent driver with a well set up car and use it on track days or the strip, you will not really get the benefit of it on the road, yes they are quick, but my N/A car is still pushing 236bhp (fly) which is not to shabby,and it kept up with an 8psi JRSC'd car up to 80 mph or so on a magazine test at Brunters. Ok the JRSC'd car pulled away from then on and they do pull like a train from 3 figures on especially, but when will you get a chance to use that.

I will admit it gives you a little more flexibility when overtaking and on average I found I used a cog less than I do now if you get me. I may change down an extra gear than I used to.

Having said that I am putting cams and a new designed inlet manifold on in March/April, that should see me with similar power to my 4psi Supercharger, if not a we bit more. So it will be interesting to see how that compares.

I do miss the charger sometimes, but If I am honest I am happier with the cars over all balance now. Though we are all different of course.

 

[NYA]

If you want performance from your exhaust, but not the noise, go for the Buddy Club Spec IV. I had this on my car, and you only really notice it when you floor it, other than that is is only mildly louder then standard.

 

[bendycivic]

Thanks to all of ya. this has been a big help. now all i got to do is find somewhere thats good enough to work on my car in east anglia.
If you got anymore tips for me, (apart from the obvious e.g dont eat yellow snow...........} please post them.
Thanks again.

 

[G]

Sometimes to find the right place you just have to travel dude, why I'll only go to a handful of places, TDI North being one in Warrington, TGM motorsports, Hond-R in Abingdon and Owen Developments near me to name but a few I trust. Powerstation for chassis work too

Ask around, talk to people with examples of good work done to their car and that the car is still going strong, and that have not shown signs of mapping that either looks like it was done by a n00bish 12 year old, or had the wrong size parts fitted say... that are not up to the job not that I am thinking of anyone specific you understand

 

[johnny 5]

I am no expert, but i had a Pipercross Viper until today and thought it was pretty good for what it is! I have had spoon drop-in, AEM V2, AEM CAI, Mugen, Pipercross Viper and now ITG Maxogen (in exactly that order)

I must say that the AEM CAI gave the most noticeable gains in torque at the time, jumping from a V2 to a CAI. However, the V2 gave me big gains (once the car is moving) over stock, esp in VTEC. The biggest shocker out of them all was the Viper tho! For the price and the fact that you wont be sucking up water everytime it rains, and pooping urself when u see a big puddle (the reason why i removed the CAI) it was not too bad! Although a bit noisey, the gains were good i thought! It gave some nice mid range torque and VTEC pulled hard, i would say it isnt far off from the CAI, def better than the Mugen (shocker)!

From what you have said, you are directing ur airfeed to the front of the car? This is where u might be going wrong, as the filter faces the back of the car, you are turning the air feed 90degrees to point the air feed through the engine bay back to the front, behind the radiator!

Try reolcating the air feed to either point towards the bottom of the car (straight down from the end of the filter) or towards the passenger wheel arch (i had mine here). The air should be colder and also has less distance to travel along the pipe, so you might notice a harder pull? Give it a go and see if it makes any difference, but like i say i am no expert. I was surprisingy impressed by the pipercross with the air feed located towards the wheel arch and think its not a bad filter. However i have now got the best of all worlds with an ITG, hopefully i will notice even better gains when it is run in!

My other mod is an exhaust, i have the Tanabe SMR system (jap high flow exhaust) and i must say, i felt the exhaust gives good gains combined with the air filter! If you want greater sound and more mid-range/high end power, get yourself an exhaust. I have not had any handling mods as others have mentioned, however i dont think this is required until you are familiar (and can utilise the existing firm setup) of the way the car handles anyway, as you wont be ready for it The existing setup is very good and fun, however an upgrade im sure would make it that much better!

 

[bendycivic]

From what you have said, you are directing ur airfeed to the front of the car? This is where u might be going wrong, as the filter faces the back of the car, you are turning the air feed 90degrees to point the air feed through the engine bay back to the front, behind the radiator!

Try reolcating the air feed to either point towards the bottom of the car (straight down from the end of the filter) or towards the passenger wheel arch (i had mine here). The air should be colder and also has less distance to travel along the pipe

Behind the wheelarch is where the instructions that came with it said to put it but where i got it fitted (R-tec, hatfield) just connected it to the original point (behind the grill) and they also didn't cut the tube down, instead spiralled it down into a coil and then put it in place. I weren't going to complain as they forgot to charge me the 63 quid to fit it.

I'm not at work tomorrow so i might have a little play round while cleaning the car.

How hard do you reckon it will be to do this?

 

[bendycivic]

Behind the wheelarch is where the instructions that came with it said to put it but where i got it fitted (R-tec, hatfield) just connected it to the original point (behind the grill) and they also didn't cut the tube down, instead spiralled it down into a coil and then put it in place. I weren't going to complain as they forgot to charge me the 63 quid to fit it.

I'm not at work tomorrow so i might have a little play round while cleaning the car.

I had a look today but didn't move the air intake cos was concerned by the amount of water flicking of the wheel and being sucked up.
Has anyone else had this problem or am i just worrying too much.

 

[Cosmic_Chi]

have you any pics of this fitted (viper kit)? would like how youve set it up.

had this on my smart car before my EP3 and it was a great piece of kit