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FN2 Is it worth spending 1500 to get 20bhp?

krik1690

krik1690

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34
Was just looking at the price of exhausts, intake, flashpro and before u no it ure rightly into a couple of grand is it really worth it for 20bhp?. I was just thinking another few hundred would get u second hand supercharger. And Is the likes of the cpl comptech ct engineering charger really bolt on and away you go?or Do u need it remapped or anything?
 
I'll start with the text speak, don't do it. This forum has a strict no text speak policy. I'm not the police but if I don't tell you someone else will.


Onto the power to pounds issue. You're 100% correct it is notoriously expensive to tune N/A cars that's just the way it is. Ultimately the route you go depends on who you are and what you are after. Personally I wanted to keep my car N/A so I spent the money keeping it N/a, personally I think it's what a type r is all about.

You could go down the forced induction route, a couple of companies do bolt on kits. The internals are pretty strong and if mapped correctly will be safe to around 400bhp. It's really important to be mapped correctly otherwise it wont last at 300 let alone 400. If you are going to continuously upgrade turbo would probably be a better bet than supercharging, as there's more room to get bigger gains. If you're targeting 300bhp ish then supercharging will give you the power you're after plus probably doubling the torques. This isn't "cheap" but it is probably the best "power to pounds" gains to be had. I think TDi North's kit is around £3k ish + a few needed extras.

You will need to map any forced induction kit you fit, which you'll need at least a Hondata K100. To be honest you need to remap anything beyond a induction kit and cat back exhaust really.
 
Chasing power numbers on a K20 is expensive. I personally don't think it's worth the money, some people do, some people find it addictive. The furthest I will go is probably intake, exhaust, ecu and a remap. After that the gains are small considering the cost.

Any forced induction kit will need remapped and most kits that I've seen don't include the flashpro/K100 or the mapping.

If you want to go faster then lose all the weight you can, power to weight ratio is the key here.

EP3 factory stats: 1200kg and 200hp = 6kg/hp

-100kg: 1100kg and 200hp = 5.5kg/hp

1200/5.5 = 218

So removing 100kg is roughly equivalent (in a straight line) to adding 18hp.
 
Thanks, very helpful. Don't think there is many places in northern ireland that remap hondata. Something I'll need to look into first.
 
As the guys have said, the K20 is a highly strung engine from the factory and tuning it is expensive.

One thing thats inportant to remember is that changing things like intake/manifold/exhaust and getting that mapped properly will hugely change the way the engine drives and give a very different feel to the car.

If your on a budget, look at 2nd hand parts or changing the suspension & brakes
 
Thanks ed, yes I was looking at second hand parts and even they hold their money. Think i will just stick to intake/exhaust/remap. Want to keep it legal for mot so when the time comes I'm not stripping bits out. So doubt I'll change the manifold.
 
It comes down to demand. There isn't the massive range of parts for the FN2 like there is for the EP3 and most people stick to the tried and tested stuff that has been proven to work.

One thing to consider is called the Hondata airbox mod which involves smoothing out the inside of the OE airbox and fitting an aftermarket panel filter. You could also fit a Driven Crazy scoop & those three combined should cost less then an HKS RSK.
 
And would this be as effective as the hks rsk I wonder? And Is the driven crazy scoop easy to fit? Thanks for the help
 
The RSK is a fantastic bit of kit, I had one and was extremely happy with it. I think Sumo Power are doing a discount for TRO members as well.

I think Loxy had the Driven Crazy Scoop IIRC
 
Yes I did. It's a bumper off job to do. It goes in the placed of the resonator box so that has to come out.
 
Intake / Header (with sports cat)/ cat back / RRC / TB - all that mapped should see you close.

Pretty much what Loxy posted on the other page
 
That seems a lot of work..... and with all these mods i should be fine with the mot? A lot of questions, just a beginner. Thanks
 
N/A tuning is expensive and involved.There have been cases of sports cats failing but most pass
 
Different cams, better exhaust and inlet manifolds, higher compression ratio.
 
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