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Nidge's Cosmic EP3

Very tidy, looks a very decent job on that cover.
I assume you're reusing the old gasket with existing Hondabond or fitting a new one using that sealant? If you don't use any in the right places or try using normal black RTV stuff it'll leak...
 
SmegHead said:
Very tidy, looks a very decent job on that cover.
I assume you're reusing the old gasket with existing Hondabond or fitting a new one using that sealant? If you don't use any in the right places or try using normal black RTV stuff it'll leak...
Click to expand...

I've fit 2 k20 rocker covers dry and neither have leaked, brand new OEM gaskets each time.
 
Cheers chaps. It took me some time but I'm sure it will look great once it's fitted.

I was hoping to replace the gasket with a new one and leave it at that.

Also is it worth replacing the spark plug seals while I'm at it?

Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited by a moderator:
There's a reason there are so many K20 engines with leaky cam covers and it's due to not fitting them properly. If I can find the diagram from the Honda technical bulletin showing where to place the sealant on the K20 gasket I'll post it up, though if you had the original gasket you'll probably see where it goes from the old stuff. From memory it's anywhere the cover turns a tight corner or has a sharp change of direction.

If you're lucky it will be fine without. I however didn't find it fun to have to remove the cover a 2nd time to do it properly.
 
SmegHead said:
There's a reason there are so many K20 engines with leaky cam covers and it's due to not fitting them properly. If I can find the diagram from the Honda technical bulletin showing where to place the sealant on the K20 gasket I'll post it up, though if you had the original gasket you'll probably see where it goes from the old stuff. From memory it's anywhere the cover turns a tight corner or has a sharp change of direction.

If you're lucky it will be fine without. I however didn't find it fun to have to remove the cover a 2nd time to do it properly.
Click to expand...
If you can find the diagram that would be great.

If not I will have a look when I take off the old one.

I don't want to have to retake it off for a second time if I can help it.

Cheers.

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Here is the two points at the front, the rear is obvious when you look at it.
 

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Nidge76 said:
Are you undersealing the whole car? What products are you using? Also are you tackling this on your own drive?

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Click to expand...

Yeah pretty much pal, i'll have the car up on the axel stands and try to access what I can and then go from there, ideally a ramp day would be fantastic, but initially i'm just gonna see how it goes via the axel stands.

I'll use the wire brushes on an angle grinder and drill, and wire brushes also to remove the surface rust, then i'm using Fertan Rust Killer on the remaining surface which I highly rate, then sealing with Dynax UB (Underbody) and also Dynax S-50. I'll be doing multiple coats. Using the spray bottles and application is quite thin so 2 coats seems much more of a solid finish.

My plan for my rusted arches is to just sand them down, treat them with rust killer then masking tap up and spray them with some Cosmic Grey paint i've sourced.... since it's only the rear arch lip i'm hoping I can get away with it! That's the plan anyway... i'm moved away from cosmetic stuff and more to mechanic before winter arrives.

SK-R said:
Hahah, yes them moments. Speaking of undersealing, mine is getting started tomorrow! Can't wait!!! *sarcasm*
Click to expand...

I just saw your pics pal and will reply properly in due course, we're pretty much tackling the same jobs at the moment but you're one step ahead and your work and detail seems fantastic.
 
Actually... now I see that pic/diagram it has jogged my memory and I did in fact apply a small amount of sealant in those areas. My apologies Flashy. I remember worrying about applying too much and having it spew out and come loose. So I went extra northern on it and used a mere whiff.

I think I'm confusing it with another car I owned around that time which I replaced a rocker cover (twice) and having to use a bucket full of the stuff to get it to seal. In comparison, the k20 was a dry fit :lol:
 
Flashy said:
Here is the two points at the front, the rear is obvious when you look at it.
Click to expand...
That's very useful thanks.

Ordered the gasket and spark plug seals and also added some Hondabond to my shopping list.

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Well I can't find the diagram but the guys above are spot on in the locations. I've knocked up this image that shows it a little better, I've been very generous in how far round the seal you need to go.

K20CamCoverHondabond.jpg

If you want to see just how little Honda actually specify\use, you can see the relevant pics in the following cam install guides. It's not a lot.

http://speed.academy/how-to-install-swap-honda-k20-k24-camshafts/2/
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/htup-0512-honda-k20a2-k24-camshaft-install/

Getting a tube of Hondabond is well worth it and good to have on the shelf, I've lost count of the number of jobs I've now used it for. The last one was resealing the selector mech back into the gearbox, they use it on damn near everything!
 
Thanks smeghead that is very useful information.

Will get some photos of the engine bay once it's done.

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Flashy said:
You really only need a blob about 5mm in diameter at each of the four points.
Click to expand...

Exactly this. It’s only on the points where the timing casing and camshaft cap meet the cylinder head as oil could escape along the join line. The rest of the gasket should just have a light smear of fresh engine oil applied (just like when changing an oil filter) to prevent the seal pinching when tightening down. Make sure all the surface on the cylinder is clean, using 800 grit paper is good for cleaning the seating area.


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