• Registered users are encouraged to enable MFA/2FA to add an aditional layer of security to their account. More information can be found here: https://www.ncsc.gov.uk/collection/top-tips-for-staying-secure-online/activate-2-step-verification-on-your-email

P0141 after filling up with Super...

Messages
634
Put Super in my EP3 the other day, just as a treat. I usually always fill up with normal unleaded...(Shell)

ECU has thrown up P0141 code which is a fault with the rear lambda sensor on the cat - anyone else experienced this with super unleaded? I suspect it is more than likely a co-incidence but thought I would ask to see if anyone else has had this.

Going to put the normal unleaded back in when it gets low to see if it throws up the same code again...will report back.
 
Probably a coincidence as you say. The sensor was probably on it's way out anyway, the higher temperatures from the higher octane fuel could have tipped it over the edge. I always run mine on super if it's available, never had that problem.
 
Fair do's. I think you should be allowed to offset pollution saving methods with other options. I'd happily get rid of this emissions nonsense and have a straight through - in place for some solar panels on the top of my house. Expensive but better. :)
 
Currently have this on my wife's ep3 too. Reset it a couple of times but it is now permanent. Never used super before but it did start immediately after filling up one day!
 
I'm pretty sure this code could be caused by a number of reasons. Failure in either of the lambda sensors or a problem with the cat. The code should be supplemented with bank 1 or 2, these being the front or rear sensors. Failure of the cat could also cause this code as the emissions will be higher than usual, thus confusing the sensor.

From what I have heard it's not worth replacing the sensor with a cheaper version, apparently only genuine Honda sensors will last a reasonable amount of time.
 
Cheers!
From what I've read, this is specific to the "heater circuit" of the secondary O2 sensor and as such does not affect running directly. Again, from reading, I believe the heater circuit to be included in order to speed up the time it takes for the O2 sensor to heat up and work at it's optimum ability so the O2 sensor is actually working but takes longer to start working efficiently.
Thanks for the heads up re the cheaper sensors. Think I'll just have to bite the bullet and pay £210 for an oem one.:eek:
 
That sounds logical. Do you know if the heater circuit an integral part of the sensor, or can it be changed independently?

I've not had first hand experience of cheap sensors, just what I've heard. By all accounts the parable 'buy cheap, buy twice' applies here.
 
Well, I filled up with normal unleaded last night after clearing the EML beforehand. I have done nearly 30 miles and the EML has remained off!....weird

I have learnt a bit about sensors after searching however.... They should be replaced in pairs ideally. K20's, being the precision piece of amazingness that they are, are only happy with OEM/Denso or NTK apparently. Any other brands sometimes do not kill the light!!!

I have 2 Denso sensors on order but I am now reluctant to spend a couple of hundred if the EML remains off...
 
Well, I filled up with normal unleaded last night after clearing the EML beforehand. I have done nearly 30 miles and the EML has remained off!....weird

I have learnt a bit about sensors after searching however.... They should be replaced in pairs ideally. K20's, being the precision piece of amazingness that they are, are only happy with OEM/Denso or NTK apparently. Any other brands sometimes do not kill the light!!!

I have 2 Denso sensors on order but I am now reluctant to spend a couple of hundred if the EML remains off...

That's happened to my wife's. Managed to reset twice which would last a couple of weeks but now won't reset.
From what I understand, the second sensor is used to monitor the cat by comparing O2 content before and after. As there are no fault codes for the cat at the moment I'm going to stick to changing the rear only and if I then get further codes, go from there.
 
The lad has ordered them now so I shall bite the bullet and get it done - the light will come back on eventually...

It would be a c**** trick to tell them I no longer want the sensors changing after theyve ordered them for me! At least I know it will be fuelling correctly with new sensors. Got to look after the old girl now she is nearing 152000 miles.
 
That's interesting as my wife's has just turned 147000 miles so very close. Wondering if that's about the life expectancy of the sensor.
 
Well 200 miles in using normal unleaded (went away at the weekend) and the EML has remained off.... I am going to put Super in again next week to see what happens.
 
Back
Top