Remapping....
- Thread starter Danny13
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Probably best to do some air filter / exhaust / mani mods before a map, that's if you want a change ins ound too
They don't just do sound.
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Look around the forum, there is sooo much info on al the stuf you are talking about, even if your not a "tech bloke" you can still read up on it all.
If you have triangle exhausts, then i take it you must have the new shape Civic which is known as an FN2 model. Granted there isnt so much available for this yet but there is still alot you can do.
As with all the good modifications, it will cost you alot of money and will make your car sound and feel alot different to what it is as standard.
If you have triangle exhausts, then i take it you must have the new shape Civic which is known as an FN2 model. Granted there isnt so much available for this yet but there is still alot you can do.
As with all the good modifications, it will cost you alot of money and will make your car sound and feel alot different to what it is as standard.
Suits
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When you say standrd bro, do you mean a standard Civic or is it a Type R?
Suits
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Right a quick lesson in terms and mods..
Induction - Air filter basicaly, OEM is normallt restrictive, so people change them for better flowing pieces of kit.
Mani/Manifold/Header - The four tube thing that comes off the back of the engine and feeds the gases out of the cylinder head and into the exhaust. General rule the bigger the tubes the better/faster the gases can escape.
Cat - Catalitic converter, filters most of the nasty crap out of the gases, can be restrictive, race cars dont have cat's so that the gases get out quicker. De-Cat.
B-pipe/Centre pipe - The piece of exhaust that stretches from the cat to the back box, again, the bigger the bore the more gases can get down there better.
Back box - Your triangles surrond the end of this, pretty much makes the final sound of your exhaust system, OEM can be restrictve so after market ones are generaly better, again, you guessed it gets the gases out quicker.
The running theme here is getting air in quicker and gases out quicker. The quicker you can get the gases out the quicker you can get air in and therefore get more power.
Mapping/ECU/Fueling/KPro/K100 - These are basically all comoputers for you car, that tell it when to inject the fuel into the cylinder chamer for burning and creating power. Increasing the air flow through the engine is good for starters but further down the line can damagae the engine by messing with the air fuel ratio. These new computer 'maps' alter the fueling to compenstae for the better air flow, resulting in, more power. This is normally the last thing you do to a car, like the icing on the cake, gets all of the mods working together better.
Thats the basics.
Sorry if im teaching you to suck eggs.
Hope this helps.
Induction - Air filter basicaly, OEM is normallt restrictive, so people change them for better flowing pieces of kit.
Mani/Manifold/Header - The four tube thing that comes off the back of the engine and feeds the gases out of the cylinder head and into the exhaust. General rule the bigger the tubes the better/faster the gases can escape.
Cat - Catalitic converter, filters most of the nasty crap out of the gases, can be restrictive, race cars dont have cat's so that the gases get out quicker. De-Cat.
B-pipe/Centre pipe - The piece of exhaust that stretches from the cat to the back box, again, the bigger the bore the more gases can get down there better.
Back box - Your triangles surrond the end of this, pretty much makes the final sound of your exhaust system, OEM can be restrictve so after market ones are generaly better, again, you guessed it gets the gases out quicker.
The running theme here is getting air in quicker and gases out quicker. The quicker you can get the gases out the quicker you can get air in and therefore get more power.
Mapping/ECU/Fueling/KPro/K100 - These are basically all comoputers for you car, that tell it when to inject the fuel into the cylinder chamer for burning and creating power. Increasing the air flow through the engine is good for starters but further down the line can damagae the engine by messing with the air fuel ratio. These new computer 'maps' alter the fueling to compenstae for the better air flow, resulting in, more power. This is normally the last thing you do to a car, like the icing on the cake, gets all of the mods working together better.
Thats the basics.
Sorry if im teaching you to suck eggs.
Hope this helps.
Suits
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- 22,179
Thats where most start.
Or....on suspension and chassis work.
The list is endless mate, never ending and expensive as hell.
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I started on induction (Mugen intake) then the exhaust (5Zigen Pro Racer) then I thought about things and decided to go for:
Safety first (Brakes, struts etc)
Power second (Lets face it, the EP3 is already quick enough to have fun in).
Next on the want list are some shocks (if anyone has any OEM ones with low miles on let me know), uprated discs and pads and a front strut brace (with or without ETD).
But agreed, mostly, people start with the intake..
Safety first (Brakes, struts etc)
Power second (Lets face it, the EP3 is already quick enough to have fun in).
Next on the want list are some shocks (if anyone has any OEM ones with low miles on let me know), uprated discs and pads and a front strut brace (with or without ETD).
But agreed, mostly, people start with the intake..
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Iv just got my type r and the guy i got it from had it re mapped. Im sure this incresed my bhp??