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Rev's dropping/stalling after JRSC fitting? Still no joy!!!

Cosmic_Chi

Cosmic_Chi

Messages
1,142
Anybody encountered this? its just rev'd itself at 2000rpm for a good 30 secs by itself what i came to a stop and then cause i thought its odd, i switched my engine off, switched it back on and it just idled normally!

confused!
 
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dotty said:
Iacv needs cleaning.
Click to expand...

Is this easy? Ive just looked it up on google and if it goes wrong, a replacement from Honda is £270.

Cant find pictures of where it is on the K20 though.
 
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Hi Comic_Chi

I had the same problem with my EP3 and I was told either IACV or the TPS, which is very commom to wear out on EP3's. Mine was very bad and was told by TGM the TPS was faulty. Try the website below. It will help you locate what you want.
http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/honda_car_parts_catalogue_C01.php

If you dont have any luck cleaning your IACV give me a shout. Guy who is doing a turbo project on my car specialises in Honda only and may be able to source you one without leaving your pockets empty.

Good luck bro :)
 
Typerfusion said:
Hi Comic_Chi

I had the same problem with my EP3 and I was told either IACV or the TPS, which is very commom to wear out on EP3's. Mine was very bad and was told by TGM the TPS was faulty. Try the website below. It will help you locate what you want.
http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/honda_car_parts_catalogue_C01.php

If you dont have any luck cleaning your IACV give me a shout. Guy who is doing a turbo project on my car specialises in Honda only and may be able to source you one without leaving your pockets empty.

Good luck bro :)
Click to expand...

Is that guy from CPL? he will be charging my car next week, so i might get him to check it out
 
No it's another specialist, he is based just on the outskirt of Reading but Guy at CPL did remap my car when I had it remapped the very first time so it's definately worth asking him to check and get his opinion and possibly inspect the valve. It may be also worth while doing a diagnotic fault check to see if anything comes up. Not sure if he will charge for that though. But you should be able to sort out. Let me know how you get on mate :)
 
Right guy's, my situation is the absolute opposite now.

I had the ICV cleaned by CPL racing when i had the JRSC fitted and since then when coming to a stop, changing down the gears at low speed to come to a halt in traffic, my car's rev's are dropping to 400-500rpm and on 3 occasions the car has completely cut out/stalled.

This is quite dangerous as the first time it cut out, i was going down hill, slowing from 20mph, which would have killed the brakes had i not re-started the engine.
I've taken the car back to CPL and they have adjusted my K100 for the idle and after a few days trying it out, it has not solved the problem as its not something thats happening just sitting stationery.

Guy at CPL told me its not the map (as you normally would), and its most likely mechanical but I'm thinking how could it be? as the car was fine before it went to them and after JRSC, its not. He told me the throttle body butterfly could be sticking/throttle body dirty and I've cleaned this and nothing, the rev's are still dropping once in a while and its stalled on me once more.

Anybody have any idea's?
 
I haven't plugged it into a diagnostic's machine yet, dunno where to do it other than where i don't want to go....Honda
 
When you sit stationary and blip the throttle does the revs drop to 500rpm then raise back to normal idle speed?
 
Loxy said:
Throttle cable adjusted properly?
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I would have thought that it would have been adjusted to fit the JRSC when it was fitted.

I wouldn't have thought it would have been it cause my foot is off the throttle when I'm doing the down changing or when i foot is on the clutch only and only when the rev needle goes down to the idle speed does it drop into the 500-400rpm mark
 
Cosmic_Chi said:
Nope it just goes back to its normal 1000rpm idle speed
Click to expand...

Hmm, the symptoms you describe of the revs dropping and cutting out at low speed and revs are the symptoms of a sticky/faulty idle control valve. Seeing as you have specifically had the icv cleaned and the symptoms have arisen since the clean then it must have something to do with that. It may be a faulty electrical fault with the icv as well as mechanical.

Either way, the company that cleaned your icv have left you with a motor that is now in bad running order due to there work, they must fix it.
 
Griffin said:
Hmm, the symptoms you describe of the revs dropping and cutting out at low speed and revs are the symptoms of a sticky/faulty idle control valve. Seeing as you have specifically had the icv cleaned and the symptoms have arisen since the clean then it must have something to do with that. It may be a faulty electrical fault with the icv as well as mechanical.

Either way, the company that cleaned your icv have left you with a motor that is now in bad running order due to there work, they must fix it.
Click to expand...

CPL racing are adamant that having cleaned the ICV that it won't be that causing the problem. I see where your coming from, i might have to have a look at the ICV myself because i agree with you that the problem has arisen since they dealt with my car, JRSC or no JRSC but i know what they will turn around and say and would be happy to charge me for the work that they have created themselves
 
I understand mate. The icv is not too difficult to remove and clean but may need replacing with a newen.

From anywhere in the uk they're £250 but i managed to find a new one on ebay from Japan for £80 when I replaced mine.
 
I'm thinking what you describe could possibly be a problem with the electronic load detector circuit (ELD). It doesn't always trigger a CEL light but if you plug in a code reader it will read it a P1298 ELD High input.
It sounds very similar to the symptoms I had. For example pulling up at traffic lights i would press the clutch the revs would drop to about 200 rpm then slowly rise to 700 rpm. The car felt like it was going to stall, indeed it did once or twice.
If it does turn out to be this it is a cheap DIY fix, part costs about £50.
 
hippy43 said:
I'm thinking what you describe could possibly be a problem with the electronic load detector circuit (ELD). It doesn't always trigger a CEL light but if you plug in a code reader it will read it a P1298 ELD High input.
It sounds very similar to the symptoms I had. For example pulling up at traffic lights i would press the clutch the revs would drop to about 200 rpm then slowly rise to 700 rpm. The car felt like it was going to stall, indeed it did once or twice.
If it does turn out to be this it is a cheap DIY fix, part costs about £50.
Click to expand...

Aye, and you can change the ELD in about 30 seconds :)
 
Yeh I've heard the ICV costing £250+ from honda but I'm thinking if you picked up a second hand throttle body, the ICV comes with it?

where the ELD? (picture if you have one), i'll take things step by step and see how i get on and give you updates to see what works and don't work.

Also do we have a ICV motor? where is it if we do?
 
Cosmic_Chi said:
Yeh I've heard the ICV costing £250+ from honda but I'm thinking if you picked up a second hand throttle body, the ICV comes with it?

Very true.

where the ELD? (picture if you have one), i'll take things step by step and see how i get on and give you updates to see what works and don't work.

Within the fuse box under the bonnet, it's a brown rectangle thing with a slot in the middle of it.

Also do we have a ICV motor? where is it if we do?

The icv is attached to the throttle body, it's easier to remove the whole throttle body with 4 bolts to access the icv. Yes it has a type of motor/solenoid :)
Click to expand...

...
 
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