Should I go for a Genuine Knock Sensor?

[Topjacket]

Hello

The Engine Management light came on in my 55 plate EP3 the other day. I did a scan with my cheap bluetooth code reader and got a P0325 code back. After reading online that it is a knock sensor but could also flag up with this code if the car was low on fuel, I filled up and reset the light EML. The light hasn't come back on since but the car has now cut out once (and drops revs when pulling up) and has also had a one off missfire.

I stupidly took it to Honda for a £90 diagnostic hoping they could shed more light on the issue. They weren't able to find any issues but said I should probably replace the knock sensor anyway to see if the missfire and drop out goes away. £90 to be told what I told them!! Nice one!!

I am now going to get an another garage to replace the sensor as Honda want nearly £400!! Looking online I see that genuine Honda sensors are, at best around £85 but that other companies sell non-honda at a fraction of the price. I know if something sounds too good to be true........... but is it worth spending the extra for genuine Honda when it comes to this part?

Thanks for any advice.

Cheers

Jim

 

[mike.h]

It's basically a microphone, if you got something that didn't work then you'd have an engine that'd have no way of knowing if it were misfiring, is it worth the risk of maybe a fifty quid saving?

 

[Ricki1985]

When it comes to sensors, always spend that little extra and buy genuine Honda, they will last ten times longer then cheap imitations.

 

[Flashy]

Have you checked the resistance of the knock sensor in question? Checked for any damaged wires leading to/from the sensor?

 

[mike.h]

Have you checked the resistance of the knock sensor in question? Checked for any damaged wires leading to/from the sensor?

Speaking from having had to deal with this before:
1. It's a ******* to reach (under the inlet manifold)
2. the plastic segment of it will likely pull free from the bolt segment when you try undoing the connector, the whole unit gets hot and stays hot for the life of the sensor since it's bolted to the side of the block.

Good luck

 

[Flashy]

A bit like trying to bleed the clutch, the slave cylinder is a git to try and get at too

 

[Topjacket]

Thanks very much for the replies, much appreciated as allways.

I think you are right in that spending the extra is worth it in the long run. I often have a crack at doing things myself but have booked it in to be done by a non-Honda garage as it looks like a pig of a job!

@flashy, yes, Honda have confirmed that the plastic cover on the sensor has come away.

Honda also recommended changing a metal pipe going into the thermostat housing so going to get that done while the inlet manifold is off. Going to be less than half the price of Honda even with Genuine Honda parts.

Thanks again

Jim

 

[Topjacket]

Hi Again

Does anyone know what parts (if any) need to be replaced when the inlet manifold is removed. For example is there a gasket kit I would need to order?

Thanks

Jim

 

[mike.h]

You can do it without removing the manifold (it's just a bit more of a challenge ) by either coming at it from below, or by undoing the top mounts for the radiator and applying a bit of pressure to lever it forward. If you're going to be doing other stuff at the same time though, fair enough.

 

[Hazz]

Change to a thermal gasket if the manifold is coming off for ease of access. Gain those fractional horses where you can :lol:

 

[Azazl187]

Hi Again

Does anyone know what parts (if any) need to be replaced when the inlet manifold is removed. For example is there a gasket kit I would need to order?

Thanks

Jim

Dont do it. Ive done this job myself and it is doable from under the car. You take off the covers underneath and then you need to take out one or both of the brackets that hold the mani underneath and then move a few cable clips and you can get to the sensor. You will have to unclip the connector by feel but its easy to get to if your arm goes in sideways. Then you need a deep socket (24 i think) and you can undo the sensor as it shouldnt be very tight.

After that its just a case of reversing the process after putting the new one in. And when i say new i mean buy a genuine one, not some Ebay knock off. Yes there are expensive but they are for a reason, this is an important sensor and it needs to work flawlessly for a large amount of time.

Obviously do what you like but there is no need to remove the mani at all.