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timing chain replacment

Lucas_4658

Lucas_4658

Messages
30
Hi Guys
this Might have been covered already so apologizes in advance.
I have a 2004 ep3 which is coming up to 100k mark and still on the original chain and wondering is it time to change but get mixed stories on it, some saying it should have been done at 70k then others it needs doing at 100k then others saying its fine at the moment so im a tad confused on the subject so to speak, car has a full service history and has had oil & filter change every 5k from owning since 65k so it has been loved and looked after, i did have the valve cover off at 90k to be sent off to be powder coated and my old man mechanic of 30 odd year said that it in excellent condition for the millage and looks fine, but just curious what other people have done with theirs.
cheers
Lucas
 
Is it rattling, rattle noise on start up, or engine management light on, if not it's fine and keep doing what your doing just don't bounce off the limiter, there easy to do when it comes to it but don't waste money
 
So explain why not, these cars are designed to bring the warning light on when they stretch, there's people out there with a lot more miles on than 100k and still ok
 
I had mine replaced at 90k miles, it was 1.5 teeth out. Any more would have lit the EML, more than 3 teeth valves meet pistons.

If a tensioner failed, or worse, the chain itself... Pistons will marry valves and live happily ever after.
 
EML will only come on once it has skipped a couple of teeth, by which point you will know about it anyway. It won't come on for a stretched chain on its own.

Recent pic on FB:

14333064_1316262495081006_76638879390739681_n.jpg


Here's the last three 3 K20 cam chains we've changed, with a new one on the right. It's amazing how much these can stretch, none of these cars had the engine light on!
Click to expand...

The reality is you don't know the condition of the chain unless it is inspected. I had a chain wear (not stretch) so it was slipping at 43k, but 100k is a good yardstick.
 
I have just purchased an EP3. Has a lot of service history, but I don't seen anything in regards to the timing chain being replaced, so I am going to do this, as it is on 130,000 miles.

Just chain and tensioner then and OEM only?
 
Thanks.

Is there anything about this timing chain that warrants it being done by a specialist? Or is any competent mechanic suffice? I have a mechanic I go to that does all of my work and has done several timing belt changes, but never a chain.
 
Better to get it done by someone who knows the engines realy
Not dissing any other mechanics out there but if it gets timed up incorrectly after the cams have sprung you will encounter probelms
 
Loxy said:
EML will only come on once it has skipped a couple of teeth, by which point you will know about it anyway. It won't come on for a stretched chain on its own.

Recent pic on FB:

14333064_1316262495081006_76638879390739681_n.jpg




The reality is you don't know the condition of the chain unless it is inspected. I had a chain wear (not stretch) so it was slipping at 43k, but 100k is a good yardstick.
Click to expand...

Now I'm not doubting that the chains to gain length over time, but this picture isn't really a good example. I can only assume he's got them hanging over his finger. Hardly an accurate measurement.
Also there's a tensioner. Which keeps the chain under tension on the non driven side and to take slack when the chain increases in length. VTC will also compensate for when the timing starts to go out.
Until there's an EML on with a Camshaft/Crankshaft sensor/incorrect correlation or similar fault, the engine 9/10 times is running fine.
100k is a fair guide figure to check the chain. But not necessarily change. A lot depends on how it's been treated. Limiter bashing and inability to change gear correctly will cause excessive wear.
 
I spoke with a mechanic today to get a price on changing the chain. He mentioned that as long as the car has been treated well and the oil hasn't been run low and has been changed on schedule, they can go without being changed. He isn't a Honda engine specialist or anything. Just thought I'd chime in with what he said.

I am still changing mine though :p
 
Lewisgame said:
Now I'm not doubting that the chains to gain length over time, but this picture isn't really a good example. I can only assume he's got them hanging over his finger. Hardly an accurate measurement.
Also there's a tensioner. Which keeps the chain under tension on the non driven side and to take slack when the chain increases in length. VTC will also compensate for when the timing starts to go out.
Until there's an EML on with a Camshaft/Crankshaft sensor/incorrect correlation or similar fault, the engine 9/10 times is running fine.
100k is a fair guide figure to check the chain. But not necessarily change. A lot depends on how it's been treated. Limiter bashing and inability to change gear correctly will cause excessive wear.
Click to expand...
If you can hold four chains on a finger, 1) you've got stronger fingers than me and 2) how long are your fingers!?

It'll be on a spanner or ratchet.

I not disputing what you're saying but I've read of chains that have slipped 2 teeth and the car was running poorly but no EML. It has to be a fair bit out to put it on. Plus if a tensioner is having to work towards the full range of its stroke to keep a slack chain in check, it's going to wear faster and increase the chance of failure.

It's just easier to get it changed for the sake of a few hundred quid.
 
Parts (including guides) are roughly £260 so, including labour, you probably won't get change from £500.
 
TI motorsport ( Tegiwa ) changed my timing chain and tensioner obviously genuine OEM parts for £330 all in.
I had mine changed at 90k just for piece of mine. At the end of the day I would rather bite the bullet and pay £330 rather than potentially knackered engine.
 
Ricki1985 said:
TI motorsport ( Tegiwa ) changed my timing chain and tensioner obviously genuine OEM parts for £330 all in.
I had mine changed at 90k just for piece of mine. At the end of the day I would rather bite the bullet and pay £330 rather than potentially knackered engine.
Click to expand...

Forgot to mention this price of £330 also included valve clearances checked / adjusted
 
First thing we did on the track car was check the chain, still good on 138k! Nothing to suggest it's been changed before we got the car.
 
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