Vibration/rattling noise at 3-4k? Drive shaft heat shield

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Thanks for that, where is this located and what does it do? (I have no mechanical knowledge whatsoever)
 

Loxy

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Item #3. It should keep the belt tight on the pulleys.

It might not be, it was just a suggestion. Worth a look though maybe?
 
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Ok i'll get it checked out, that would explain why it only does it in the wet, would this cause a vibration? read a thread on another site and it suggested it could be clutch/gearbox bearings causing the noise? The bite feels fine and it goes into all gears smoothly. I'm reluctant to go to my local Honda dealer as I think they start charging you as soon as the cars on their property! The vibration noise is slowly starting to destroy me!
 

Loxy

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It could well be a clutch or gearbox bearing. The gearbox bearing doesn't usually squeal though which made me think of the belt, it is more of a whine. The clutch release bearing can squeal but it would likely do it all the time, not just in the wet, being sealed in the clutch etc.

Where in the country are you? There are Honda specialists dotted around that would be able to sort you out for much less than main dealer prices.
 
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I've only noticed the squeal when its been very wet, i've had cars with a similar problem so your diagnosis of the belt sounds good! The vibration when engine braking is constantly there. I'm in Cornwall. Thanks again for your advice.
 

Loxy

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Hmm, not sure about any specialists in the Cornwall area.

TGM is in Fleet, but it's a bit of a trek for you.

It could be a combination of a bearing and belt tensioner if you are unlucky. :(

Hard to tell from the description. Bite the bullet and get it looked at.
 
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Yeh we're a little cut off down here and the local garages almost encourage you to go to the main dealer as they don't seem interested.

Thanks for your time.
 
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Hey guys just joined, having a problem with my 2002 ep3, my anti roll bar keeps shifting side to side, iv replaced the D bushes, but still has movement when cornering. Only thing I can think of doing is taping the anti roll bar where the bushes sit to make it tighter. Anyone else had this problem?? Thanks
 

Griffin

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Hey guys just joined, having a problem with my 2002 ep3, my anti roll bar keeps shifting side to side, iv replaced the D bushes, but still has movement when cornering. Only thing I can think of doing is taping the anti roll bar where the bushes sit to make it tighter. Anyone else had this problem?? Thanks
The arb should have a certain amount of movement in the bushes as they need to twist in them, drilling and tapping into the arb may cause a weak point causing them to snap as quite a lot of twist force is put through them. Perhaps wrapping a thin shim steel around the arb where they meet in the bushes may help some.
 

Griffin

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Sorry I just got what you meant by taping, not tapping :oops:

Yeah wrap some tape around the arb :)
 
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Sorry I just got what you meant by taping, not tapping :oops:

Yeah wrap some tape around the arb :)
No joy Griffin, I taped the arb so it was tighter still getting the noise :( I've figured out how to make to noise while stationary, if I select 1st apply hand brake and put the engine under load and rock the steering very slightly I get a vibrating rubbing noise, almost as if it's either metal rubbing on metal or a rubber bush rubbing, feels like its coming from the eps rack or something on the suspension. This noise is doing my nut in lol
 
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Best way would be to get the car on a ramp with someone prompting the car to make the annoying noise - and check the front end with a pry bar:

It could be worn bushes/CV joints/Ball joints/Drop-links/steering rack.. it's difficult to properly diagnose with very little detail available.. Are there any other characteristics... is the steering feel worse? Does the car knock? If so when... etc. etc.
 
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Best way would be to get the car on a ramp with someone prompting the car to make the annoying noise - and check the front end with a pry bar:

It could be worn bushes/CV joints/Ball joints/Drop-links/steering rack.. it's difficult to properly diagnose with very little detail available.. Are there any other characteristics... is the steering feel worse? Does the car knock? If so when... etc. etc.
Yh ** get it up in the air again tmr, there's no play in the steering I've checked all the drop links for play even had a lever on the lower arms but nothing. I did set tracking last week because I fitted 4new tyres as the previous fronts were knackered on the inside edge but the noise was there prior to me changing the tyres. Im at a loss at the moment, I'm hoping I find what's causing it
 
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Yh ** get it up in the air again tmr, there's no play in the steering I've checked all the drop links for play even had a lever on the lower arms but nothing. I did set tracking last week because I fitted 4new tyres as the previous fronts were knackered on the inside edge but the noise was there prior to me changing the tyres. Im at a loss at the moment, I'm hoping I find what's causing it
Is the car lowered? How is performance? What are the driveshafts like? Have you inspected all of the heat-shields there are a couple - near/on the CAT.
 
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Is the car lowered? How is performance? What are the driveshafts like? Have you inspected all of the heat-shields there are a couple - near/on the CAT.
Drive shafts look fine, no leaks from the seals and there solid, the heat shields are sound too and as for the springs they look stock, there's no mods on this car at all, only 2 prev owners one lady and the fella I got it from. I did notice a split on the engine mount next to the fan belt, but I don't think that would cause it unless the engine has dropped slightly?? But the noise seems to be coming from the n/s/f and the mount is on the o/s? Like I say I've changed the D bushes on the arb as I thought it was that but made fa difference. Thought this may of been common
 
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I'd replace that mount TBH. At least, if nothing else you can rule that out - afterall, the mount is cracked.

Unconfirmed that this is actually the issue, but when loading the engine it will rock/move and if one of the mounts is shot there stands to be "play", that has the potential to cause lurching/vibrating. It'd be wise to rule that out first.. and see if the problem persists.

If you don't rock the steering when testing for the noise, does it still occur? (i.e when you put the car in first and apply the handbrake etc. etc. - if you don't rock the steering does the noise still happen)
 
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I'd replace that mount TBH. At least, if nothing else you can rule that out - afterall, the mount is cracked.

Unconfirmed that this is actually the issue, but when loading the engine it will rock/move and if one of the mounts is shot there stands to be "play", that has the potential to cause lurching/vibrating. It'd be wise to rule that out first.. and see if the problem persists.

If you don't rock the steering when testing for the noise, does it still occur?
no the noise only happens as u move the steering wheel, I'm talking a slight left to right, it vibrates through the wheel, really feels like metal moving on dry rubber. ** get a mount ordered in the next few days, looks simple to change, ** just throw a jack under the engine to take the weight and whip it off. Like u say it needs doing anyway
 
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Hmmmmm... Yeah... so definitely requires movement of the steering wheel to generate that noise? How does the car feel to drive? Is the steering feel affected?

If you change the mount, stick a decent piece of wood on the jack to support the engine. Do not jack the sump up, you just want the jack at the right height to support the engine whilst the mount is swapped.
 
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Hmmmmm... Yeah... so definitely requires movement of the steering wheel to generate that noise? How does the car feel to drive? Is the steering feel affected?

If you change the mount, stick a decent piece of wood on the jack to support the engine. Do not jack the sump up, you just want the jack at the right height to support the engine whilst the mount is swapped.
To be honest mate feels ok to drive, the steering wheel is central to the road although sometimes feels as if both front wheels are towing in or there too straight if that makes sense??? When I applied my trackers to the car both front wheels were towing out by 4 degrees which would be the reason for the previous tyres being bald on inner edge, I set tracking to parallel on +1 and -1 degrees, but then again I dunno if this cars been lowered which was the reason for previous tracking being set out??? I may get geometry done professionally on it, see what's actually wrong with it?
 
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