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Weird Fuse Box Bodge Found! Anybody Help Suss This Out??

T

Type-RChris

Messages
108
Was messing around with my engine bay today as the sun was shining for once, Decided to take my fuse box cover off for a clean and found this weird bodge (Doesn't look like the fine work of Honda).

Anybody know what this fuse may be for? or even why this is like this? Didn't want to remove it in-case it effected my electrics..

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Oh dear :/ i don't have HID's but it might of had some with a previous owner.
There must of been somthing on the car that kept blowing it then, but i do not have any electrical extras on my car for it to blow?

My car uaed to have a vtec light but the bulb was not conected to anything..

Ill try get my hands on a new one and see if it blows!

Am i right in thinking that with out that fuse working my car would be un drivable? Ie. not able to start?

Thanks for the information mate!
 
A circuit/system is only as strong as it's weakest part. That's obviously brought it up to a higher amp of resistance. Only a matter of time before the next weakest point goes.
 
Ah the joys of auto electrics, like Bonito says a circuit is only as strong as it's weakest part. So worryingly an 80 amp fuse is the weak part... It must have been popping on cranking over for them to have to do that.

Is there anything connected to the ignition circuit, that would be my first point of enquiry. Also, can you see any other clues. Does it look like it's had loads of audio installed in it, or something like that? I wonder if it did, or had something hooked up to it in a previous life that has now been removed. I hope that's the case, and they just forgot to remove their additional "fuse".

Blows my mind, why do people put fuses in things? To be the weakest point in case of a short, so the fuse goes instead of something catching fire. So what do they do? Remove the weakest point.

Sure, if you're stuck in the middle of nowhere and you need to bodge a fix to get home or something but don't leave it there!
 
If i found that i would look through all the wiring and see if theres been add ons and what they do. If so rewore them and fuse them on there own. Look at all the looms even inside the car to make sure its all as it should be then put the proper fuse in and see what happens. Keep that in the car so if it goes when your out at least you can get home then look more into it

If nothing has been added on then all should be ok
For the old vtec light try and find where it used to be wired and get rid or reconnect it then you know thats not doing it
If they didnt patch it properly when removing it that might cause it but im not sure

If it had a big sound system at somepoint they might of put the power cable in wrong off the wrong source, sounds silly but i have seen it connected in the fusebox on a big fuse without its own fuse! Why i dont know

Hope this helps
 
I think the best thing for me to do is have a good look to see if anythings been hard wired into a live or if somebody has left any sign of added electrical items previous to my owner ship, this should be fun lol

I've had a hunt for a new fuse online but cant find one, might need to go pay Honda a visit in the week and buy 2 if there not stupidly priced as would be nice to have a back-up/spare fuse.

Cheers for the useful information lads! Ill keep thread updated, never know sombody else may come across this fault one day!
 
Wise approach, get a spare fuse and see if it goes again for starters.

If it does, then you've got a plan of attack. Keep us posted, be interested to hear your findings. :)
 
Hi mate, that fuse can pop if the battery is connected the wrong way round while the engine is being cranked. Perhaps someone made that mistake and bridged the connections for temporary measure.
 
If you're not very clued up with electrics, I'd pay an auto-spark to have a look at it.

An 80A fuse bridged like that is a fire waiting to happen!
 
Finally managed to have a good little look at my wiring today, found two things but nothing that may solve the bodged piece of wire in the fuse box i don't think..

Firstly i found the connection on the ECU Vtec wire that was left there, But i might actually consider wiring up a new one as it doesn't sound like a bad idea to have one? And i don't really think it would cause a 80 amp fuse to blow?

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Second thing i found was that on the under tray that sits under the glove box hiding the ECU and cables i found 4 screw holes that looks as *** something may have been wired in to the car at some point? No idea what it was *** but *** got a picture just in case somebody might have a clue!

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Looks about the size of either:

An AEM management system (close to ECU loom too)
Crossover for stereo maybe?
Alpine bluetooth module or control brain for AV setup

I'm betting on an AEM, as I doubt you'd be able to fit anything of bulk behind the glove compartment when it's closed with the stock ECU there.

http://builtengine.com/aem_30-6030.jpg

As for the wire, is that just a scotchlok on it's own or is there a wire running through to somewhere? Could be there for a whole host of reasons, VTEC light, or something to do with NOS maybe? I suspect it's all a hangover of an aftermarket ECU judging by those screw holes.

Could be way off, but evidence seems to be amassing. I'd get rid of that scotchlok and said cable until you're 100% sure on what the problem is, easy enough to run another should you need.
 
If they wired the vtec light wrong would that be enough to do the fuse?
Have you stuck a new one in yet and see if it goes
If there expensive i would get a couple from a scrappy to test
Main thing to check is if the wires have been messed with is that they have been redone properly. Soldering is the only way to me, everything else is a tempory and doesnt last. Or shouldnt be left to last.
 
I'll agree and disagree there.

The key words 'done properly' are key.
Not many people can, where as crimps are relatively consistent.
 
Stoo. said:
I'll agree and disagree there.

The key words 'done properly' are key.
Not many people can, where as crimps are relatively consistent.
Click to expand...

I find people crimp too loosely and the cables work loose very quickly. If you solder a joint and as long as they don't move the joint for a few seconds it will be a far better electrical connection than a loose crimp. And with that I will stay out of the technical part of the forum for another 6 months :)
 
I know what you are saying, but if you are using proper crimps and calibrated crimpers, you can get just as good a joint. IMHO of course.

I train crimping anyhow for a prestige OEM. :)
 
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