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Weird question, how much difference will 40bhp make?

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192
Right so i've got my ep3, and my friend also has one but he has a few mods on it.

He has a k1000 superchip (i think thats what its called)
he has a £1000 exhaust (not sure which one)
He's had it mapped,
lighter flywheel
gruppe m
and maybe some more

but anyway he's running at around 240ish bhp?

Now that extra 40bhp has got him from 0-60 in 6.6 seconds to 0-60 in around 5.2?

How can 40bhp make such a difference?
 
It's not just the BHP figure, with a K100 and a proper map, the car will be smoother, and struggle less throughout the range.

Better breathing, quicker releases of gas ftw.
 
Right so i've got my ep3, and my friend also has one but he has a few mods on it.

He has a k1000 superchip (i think thats what its called)
he has a £1000 exhaust (not sure which one)
He's had it mapped,
lighter flywheel
gruppe m
and maybe some more

but anyway he's running at around 240ish bhp?

Now that extra 40bhp has got him from 0-60 in 6.6 seconds to 0-60 in around 5.2?

How can 40bhp make such a difference?


What is his rev limit? If he is mapped at 8900RPM max, he can hit 100km/u in second gear, winning around 0.5sec Also, note that the speedo is off, he actually does 0-95 in real, winning around 0.2 secs again...
I got this info from a datalog and it is damn more accurate than counting the seconds on a youtube video if you know what I mean...
However, I found out a simple air intake can shave 0.3secs of a 0-100 time. So it's not impossible...
 
Ignore the 0-62 sprint time, focus more on 0-100 that will give a better indication of a power to speed increase.

I had my old EP3 tuned to a 241bhp level and the difference was very good.

The car pulled a lot harder and felt a lot quicker.

In real life its less obvious, I did a few runs against my mates (C4Doc) mildly tuned, non mapped EP3. It was pretty much neck and neck up until about half way through third, then into fourth the extra power becomes more apparent and I started to pull away.
 
Ignore the 0-62 sprint time, focus more on 0-100 that will give a better indication of a power to speed increase.

Fact!
Too much depends on shifting and traction, also, power becomes less usefull onder 62Mph.
eg.
Lexus LFA does it in let's say 4sec flat, that's a 1.2 sec faster than your friend's car. The LFA has 560BHP for that tiny 1.1 sec.
BMW M3 does it in 5sec flat with 420BHP, only 0.2sec faster.
Now, try this up to 160km/h and you'll see the difference becomes much larger.
 
Well put Earthslug.

So the answer to the OP's question is yes it will make a difference and far more so from a rolling start.

The cheapest way to stand a chance against him in your stock EP3 is to remove as much weight from your car as possible (seats, carpet, spare tyre, interior trim, etc) and work on your driving technique.

It's funny how insurance companies will bump up your premium if you increase your bhp but don't when you shed weight from your car which gives the same effect...
 
Well put Earthslug.

So the answer to the OP's question is yes it will make a difference and far more so from a rolling start.

The cheapest way to stand a chance against him in your stock EP3 is to remove as much weight from your car as possible (seats, carpet, spare tyre, interior trim, etc) and work on your driving technique.

It's funny how insurance companies will bump up your premium if you increase your bhp but don't when you shed weight from your car which gives the same effect...

True,
just feel the difference when a passenger sits there.

10hp for each 100kg (220lb) I've read
and
rolling mass equals x8, not sure about it, just what I found on the net. (wheels, tires, cams, flywheel, camshaft, axels... )
 
Thats a huge difference. Power/Weight ratio is against you in a EP3 they are fat.

lol really? Compared to B series cars, well yeah, but that would obviously be the case. Compared to modern cars it competes against it is bloody light in reality.
 
Mine felt much quicker after it had been mapped... it's more the 60-100mph you'll notice the bigger difference.. I too raced a mates mildly tuned ep3 (filter and exhaust) and it was pretty much neck and neck until 100+ (on a private road of course :rolleyes: )...

Vid of mine after it had been mapped:
[video=youtube;j0Pt90S4Yyc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0Pt90S4Yyc[/video]
 
mate i'm loving that! - I take it when you get the k100 fitted and get it mapped it takes your rev limit up to 8900? Because mine is like 8400 atm lol!

Also could i just get a k100 and map it without any mods? Or do i need a new exhaust etc first?
 
mate i'm loving that! - I take it when you get the k100 fitted and get it mapped it takes your rev limit up to 8900? Because mine is like 8400 atm lol!

Also could i just get a k100 and map it without any mods? Or do i need a new exhaust etc first?

Rev limit will be 8400-8600. The dials in the EP3 over-read quite a bit so looks like it hits 9k.

K100 can be put on without any mods and would give noticeable difference but if you are going to eventually get an intake/exhaust etc it makes sense to wait before getting a map done without the mods. You'll be paying for 2 mapping sessions otherwise.

OR, have a base Hondata map uploaded to the K100. The tuned Euro R map lowers high cam and would be a good improvement till you fit other mods/get a map done.
 
Rev limit will be 8400-8600. The dials in the EP3 over-read quite a bit so looks like it hits 9k.

K100 can be put on without any mods and would give noticeable difference but if you are going to eventually get an intake/exhaust etc it makes sense to wait before getting a map done without the mods. You'll be paying for 2 mapping sessions otherwise.

OR, have a base Hondata map uploaded to the K100. The tuned Euro R map lowers high cam and would be a good improvement till you fit other mods/get a map done.

Yea I think it actually revs to 8800rpm (according to the print out) so yea they do over read a little bit.

I would also recommend if you do get the K100 put on wait until you get the other mods before mapping otherwise you won't feel the 'full' effect when it's all done ;)
 
If i just put on the k100 WITHOUT mapping it, will i still notice a difference?

So say i put on a k100... then a new inlet mani, then an exhaust and THEN get it re-mapped will that be ok?
 
If i just put on the k100 WITHOUT mapping it, will i still notice a difference?

So say i put on a k100... then a new inlet mani, then an exhaust and THEN get it re-mapped will that be ok?

Hondata have generic base maps, so yes, you could use one of those before getting a specific map done for your car. For example they supply a tuned Euro R map which lowers cam change and raises rev limit. Even on a stock car it will provide a minor gain and obviously alot more of a gain when mapped specifically to your mods later on.

Only bad thing with K100 is you won't be able to upload these maps by yourself like you could with KPRO.
 
Mine felt much quicker after it had been mapped... it's more the 60-100mph you'll notice the bigger difference.. I too raced a mates mildly tuned ep3 (filter and exhaust) and it was pretty much neck and neck until 100+ (on a private road of course :rolleyes: )...

I find that surprising, when mine had I/IM/H/E kpro it walked from an I/E equipped EP at any RPM - do you have an LSD?
 
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