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What mods next for my track EP3?

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1,177
Right I'd like some input from those experienced track day drivers.

So far my Civic EP3 has:

Gruppe M intake
Remap
Cat-back exhaust
Limited slip diff
Powerflex front bushes
Powerflex engine mount bush
Stripped out rear interior
Eibach springs, camber adjustment bolts
Rear camber adjustment arms
Fast road setup
OEM 17s with Hankook Ventus V12 evo tyres all round

Brakes and brake fluid are my next move, they are already being refurbished and upgraded as they boiled on my last trackday

So what I'd like to know is where to spend the money next. I don't think more engine power is the best bet, I'm more leaning towards weight reduction and improving the braking/handling. I already plan to remove the headunit, front speakers, sound deadening and any un-used wiring/bracketry from around the car. I may consider plastic windows too. Is there any other good weight saving to be had? If so from where?

Finally what other chassis mods are worth doing for track use?

I'm thinking Toyo R888 for dry track use as well. That'll probably be a huge difference.

Thanks in advance
 
Carbon bonnet, race battery, aluminium radiator, stiffer anti-roll bars (JDM or progress). Lighter seat(s). Lighter flywheel. Lighter wheels.
 
By far the best way to go faster is to get some driver training and more trackdays under your belt .
It's amazing the amount of difference it makes, there's always something to learn when training / instructed .
 
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Full weld in cage. Makes a HUGE difference to handling, braking, everything. I would always say (in this order) tyres, brakes, suspension, roll cage, then more power. Diff too, but you already have that ;)


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Spend money on track day tuition, you learn a lot and after a few laps will probably have quicker lap times than some if the faster cars with drivers that don't know the proper lines.
 
To be honest I'm thinking of breaking it now, after some of the comments on here I'm a bit disillusioned by the site.

It's probably worth more in bits than as a whole car, I'll have to do the maths.
 
Lolwut!

I agree with what others have said more trackdays will quicken your lap times.

Also are you healthy? If you're overweight going on a diet yourself will make a huge difference. Convert those lbs into kg's and you'll see what I mean.
 
R888 will make a big difference, if you are pushing the limit of rs2's consistently around the track, then you will probably drop around 3-4 seconds at oulton with the R888's.

If you do a lot of track days or you stay on on track for long periods I'd recommend yoko A048's, much dearer but last longer but just need a bit of warming up first.

As you said above, some good brake fluid is vital (mogul rbf600 or halfords dot 5.1 is cheap) what brake pads are you using? The step up to better grip pier tyres will also put you're brakes under much more load. I'd suggest ferodo ds3000 or pfc 97 compound but beware these are also pretty heavy on discs so don't be surprised if you crack the discs and go through pads at an alarming rate. If you are fairly gentle on brakes you'll probably be ok with them though, they won't fade at all! Great pads in that respect.

Other than that sound like you've done a decent amound of bits and bobs to you're car, what geo settings are you running? These are not always right or wrong and actually more set up around the drivers driving style, but can make huge differences in lap times when tweaked correctly for you're self.
 
Best thing you can do for lap time improvement is driver training!

I have overtaken many cars with 2-3 times the power driven badly in my little lotus :) gt40's, evora's, porsche's, ferraris...

A great driver in a crap car is always faster than a poor driver in a well sorted car!!

Http://www.carlimits.com

(run by a friend of mine)

Or go out with some racing drivers/hire a driver for a track day.
 
Although I would agree on the driver training side of things I think the op wants to know what he can do to the car to make it go faster.

As said above mate with some very sound advice regarding Tyres, pads and fluid.
Cusco under braces and thicker Anti roll bars are good.
Front splitter will add a bit of downforce and more grip.
Rip out the aircon if you have it.
Get rid of all the sound deadoning and wires that you don't need or use.
Drill out holes anywhere you can.
Bumper bar front and back and inside but this is going extreme to be honest lol.
After all the lightening and whatever has been done I would then highly recommend getting the car not just setup but also corner weighted.
This will improve the balance and overall feel of the car massively.
 
Although I would agree on the driver training side of things I think the op wants to know what he can do to the car to make it go faster.

As said above mate with some very sound advice regarding Tyres, pads and fluid.
Cusco under braces and thicker Anti roll bars are good.
Front splitter will add a bit of downforce and more grip.
Rip out the aircon if you have it.
Get rid of all the sound deadoning and wires that you don't need or use.
Drill out holes anywhere you can.
Bumper bar front and back and inside but this is going extreme to be honest lol.
After all the lightening and whatever has been done I would then highly recommend getting the car not just setup but also corner weighted.
This will improve the balance and overall feel of the car massively.

I Garantee driver training will make the car faster than lightening it by 50kgs...

Run on track with no more than 1/4 tank of fuel, that will save you 30kgs!

i agree a good geo will make a world of difference, but a better driver will always get more out of the same hardware.

personally I learn a car stock, then uprate brakes, suspension and tyres... After you have mastered that then lighten like crazy and finally add power once you have mastered it all ;)
 
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