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Whining Noise

Danger200

Danger200

96.2
Messages
20,803
Hi again people

I know the CTR engine has a whiney/sort of electric sounding engine as standard, but mine has appeared to have been progressively getting louder since I have owned it.
It is due it's first major service soon, but due to money prolems I have changed the oil recently to keep it going until I can, I changed it to 0w40 Mobil 1, would this have caused the increase in noise? Only reason I ask is because I'm not sure what was in it when I bought it.

Thanks in advance
 
Shouldn't be that much of an issue mate.

How long ago were the tappets done? May cure it once it's had a service.
 
MilanoChris said:
Shouldn't be that much of an issue mate.

How long ago were the tappets done? May cure it once it's had a service.
Click to expand...

Do you know what, I noticed the tappets alot more this morning. I don't think they have ever been done. Would that get sorted on a major/full service?
I will say it has only just covered the 50k mark so it hasn't got massive mileage.
 
Does the whining only get louder when your Mrs in the car?
If yes, it seems we share the same problem.
 
Funny you should say that, if the revs exceed 6,000 rpm teh whine in the cabin is quite loud :lol:
 
Agreed - I find common use of VTEC can often cause an persistant whine from the passenger seat. It seems to get louder when 'following' a fellow driver at high speed.

Maybe this would help...

uses4duct-tape-012.gif


On a slightly more serious note, its likely to be the valve clearances. I did mine a while ago and the ticketty noise is now gone. I usually use 5w30 fully synthetic in mine and its not got any worse since I adjusted them. Not a difficult job but requires a delicate touch and a bit of patience. The exhaust tappets are not very easy to get to unless you are quite tall - which I am most certainly not lol.
 
Well I did just find out that it was running 10w40 from looking through some old paper work.

EDIT:
Valve clearances? I will say that I have a couple of mechanic mates with the tools to do this, is this a crappy job to do for someone who has never done it before? As I may have to pay them to do it incase I stuff it up or break their measures :lol:
 
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Teeheehe...

10w40 is fine and is recommended by some places, but I wanted to stick fully synthetic in and 5w30 was the only fully snth the local motor factors had in at the time. Seems to work like a charm and its £12 for 4.5ltrs ;). My motor factors are the shizzles nipplez...

The tappets aren't hard to adjust, but you do have to be careful not to 'over-adjust' them. The gap is 0.2mm on the intake and 0.25mm on the exhaust IIRC (you will need a set of feeler gauges to do it). After doing the first few you get a good idea how much clearance there should be. It was a bit odd with mine though as some were noticably further out than others so they may have been done on a previous service but I dunno to be honest.

I've done a few cars now so it doesn't really phase me anymore but you need a very steady hand and long legs with knees that bend the wrong way lol. The angle of the head doesn't help.

EDIT: Feeler gauge sizes should be 0.2mm on intake, and 0.25mm exhaust (not 0.3mm as I said before)
 
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Chr15 said:
Teeheehe...

10w40 is fine and is recommended by some places, but I wanted to stick fully synthetic in and 5w30 was the only fully snth the local motor factors had in at the time. Seems to work like a charm and its £12 for 4.5ltrs ;). My motor factors are the shizzles nipplez...

The tappets aren't hard to adjust, but you do have to be careful not to 'over-adjust' them. The gap is 0.2mm on the intake and 0.3mm on the exhaust IIRC (you will need a set of feeler gauges to do it). After doing the first few you get a good idea how much clearance there should be. It was a bit odd with mine though as some were noticably further out than others so they may have been done on a previous service but I dunno to be honest.

I've done a few cars now so it doesn't really phase me anymore but you need a very steady hand and long legs with knees that bend the wrong way lol. The angle of the head doesn't help.
Click to expand...


That's what I was after :lol: sorry mate. I did read your post, I'm at work so after reading and posting I sort of forget what I read and what I type.

I think I will have to borrow their feeler gauges anyway and maybe a stool to stand on or have the goat like abilites of the knee like you were saying :lol:

How long did this take you out of interest?
 
No probs matey, I'm also at 'work' lol! Busy day n all that.....at least thats what the missus gets told when I stroll in at half 5! heheh...

Well first you have to remove the spark plug cover, VTEC cover, coils and spark plugs & breather pipe. That'll take <10mins if you've done it before.

Then you can start to loosen the valve cover cap-head nuts bit by bit until they're all loose. Put the nuts in a safe place and give the valve cover a tug - it will come loose without too much hassle. If you are careful the cover will come off with the seal intact. I've done this on two civics and neither needed a new seal. Whether you want to put a new'un on is completely up to you but mine doesn't leak at all. This will take another 10 mins or so but you shouldn't rush these things. I cleaned the inside on mine with some spirits as it had a lot of slime in there - which I'm sure even a honda dealership wouldn't bother doing.

Then jack the drivers side up and remove the drivers wheel. There is a star-shaped split in the wheel arch lining. You need to push a ~23mm (cnt remember exactly but quite big) socket with an extension on it through the split thing and locate the socket onto the nut which is on the end of the crank. Another 5-10mins or so to do this...

Now you are set to make the adjustments. With the plugs out it will rotate easily with a few turns on the socket. 180° of crank rotation = 90° of cam rotation (which makes sense as its a 4 stroke ).

You need to rotate the engine clockwise until the arrow on the cam gear points upwards. This indicates that cylinder 1 is at TDC (cylinder #1 is the one closest to the cam gears). If you feel the play in the rockers on cyl#1 at this stage, you will notice it clonks very slightly against the top of the valve. Cyl#2 will be tight as its on the wrong stroke, cyl#3 will be loose as it is at BDC, and cyl#4 will also be tight.

Put a 45° bend in the feeler gauges and slide it in between the valve and follower. This can be a bit tricky and it’s really not an exact science, but you will notice the gauge will feel fairly loose. You need to undo the 10mm nut on each follower as you go, which will free-off the adjustment grub screw. Pull the rocker up so it is not touching the valve and very gently turn the grub screw clockwise a little bit (about 5mins on a clock) and you will feel the gap is getting tighter. When you feel a fair bit of drag on the gauge, keep the screwdriver on the grub screw and nip the 10mm nut back up. The important thing to remember is not to press down with the screwdriver as it will make the gauge feel tight no matter how loose it is. If you feel the rocker drop, pull it back up and carry on adjusting until it feels right.

Once you’ve done all 4 valves, make sure all the bolts are nipped up. Then feel the play in the rockers again and you should notice they give a much quieter tap and have less movement in them. Obviously the intake ones should be a bit tighter than the exhaust ones. If any seem too tight or too loose, try again.

Then rotate the crank another 180°, and proceed to do it again for cyl#3.

Keep rotating 180° each time (in the order of cyl#1,3,4,2) until all 16 valves have been adjusted, then place on the valve cover and refit the cap-head nuts. Tighten them bit by bit, and make sure you don’t tighten any of them down all in one go as it will put stresses through the casting and it may crack.

Then re-fit plugs (clean or replace them first), coils, spark plug cover and the VTEC cover.

Job done. Depending on whether you have taken any of these bits off before will judge how long it will take, but the longest part is always in the adjustment. Just don’t be tempted to rush it as it may cause problems.

EDIT: Order of adjustment should be cyl#1, #3, #4, #2.
 
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Crikey that's a big write up, will have to print that out.

Cheers alot though mate, appreciate that
 
lol, yea its been a bit quiet here today. My managers goin away all week so he's left me be today which is nice! Been a bit of a TRO whore today!

There are how-tos on it I think, but the one I used was american so it didnt all ring true. For a start I took the wrong bloody wheel off, lol.

I'll try and find a link for ya...
 
Thanks very much, that's going to prove quite helpful Saturday if it isn't raining. I can leave it on my drive so it won't need to be started or anything.

Yeah I'm like that, I had it running all day lol soon as the office was empty I was on it :lol:
 
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