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Jimbothemagnificent's unmagnificent '85 Civic

Cheers bud. Now, how does one check the alternator?

mechanical problem? Fine, no worries. But when it comes to electronics, you should treat me like a monkey in a suit: As awesome as I seem, you shouldn't expect rational behaviour or any measurable cognizance.
 
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Check the battery voltage without the car running, start the car up and check the voltage, you're aiming for around 12.5v ideally, although your car is from 1985 so it might be a bit lower. If it's around that sort of figure check with your lights etc on and see what it's at then. Shouldn't drop below 12v really. But again it's a older car so may be a smidge lower 0.2-0.3 max in my opinion. If you haven't got one get a multi meter, should be able to pick a basic one up for not much money.

From what you've said it sounds like the battery to me.
 
Thanks bud! I really am useless when electricity is concerned.

I hesitantly held my multimeter against the battery after jump starting it, I got....a reading....of some sort. Electricity happened, I think.

I didn't think to try it with the engine not running. I shall do that tomorrow (after I've driven my mother to the bus in the type-R and suffered the inevitable "why does it need to be so loud?" conversation). Then I'll probably go to Halfords and get a new battery.

Expect pictures of the AMAZING non-standard-size battery mounting solution that the previous owner came up with.

How would I tell if the alternator has failed? Short of waiting for the new batter to go flat?
 
The voltage would be less than 12v all the time and if you have it running with heater, wipers, headlights and anything else electrical all the lights will dim fairly quickly, eventually the engine will die.

It could be the battery having a dead cell or a current draw from the car. If you remove the earth terminal and refit is there a spark? That's a good sign of how much current is being drawn.

Ideally, put a volt meter (Dr mode) across the terminals with engine off, should be around 12v. Then start engine, should be around 13v really. Then turn all lights etc on and check voltage again, over 12v needed. That rules out alternator.

If it's a fancy alternator you can measure the current draw by turning everything off, put the leads in the Amp socket (DC) and then remove the earth terminal. Now with the leads put one to the removed earth terminal and one to the earth post on the battery. Amps should be very little. Probably 0.3 tops. If more pull fuses until it drops and you've then opiates the circuit.

If you mange all that you can call yourself an electrician!
 
I'll bet it works though! This currently has the battery from the EP3 in it. For the reason above I've not fixed it yet, but my girlfriend refused to go to Edinburgh in the EP today, so the battery was pilfered. Fingers crossed it starts in the morning to get home!

****, I just realised that the jump leads are at home.

Toes, eyes and balls crossed too then.....
 
Your missus prefers this to the Civic?

Probably doesn't say much for you if that's the way her taste works no?
 
Your likening yourself to a 85 Civic?

That would make you most unmagnificent
 
Can't wait to see what you do with this, I noticed your in Glasgow now, you should pop down to one of the outsiders meets. They are every Sunday evening under the Kingston bridge, good selection of cars show up now and no boy racers which is a bonus :)


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Can't wait to see what you do with this, I noticed your in Glasgow now, you should pop down to one of the outsiders meets. They are every Sunday evening under the Kingston bridge, good selection of cars show up now and no boy racers which is a bonus :)


Good stuff, thanks man. I'm away this Sunday but I'll try and make it along next week in the type-R. I'll pm you for details.
 
After much deliberation, I have decided this is my favourite build thread. Do more stuff Jimbo! :)

Lol, I shall try not to disappoint!

Next steps are more rust repair, make a few new brackets and other miscellaneous metal bits. Then get it to Automek and make up a repair, maintenance and modification plan for the future. Probably get the bodywork solidly fixed and undersealed over the winter, which will include painting and arch work. Then look at wheels and suspension.

Sourcing parts is not easy, though I've got a few contacts in the states now for suspension, braces and suchlike. Also, I'm fairly certain that I'll be able to fit wheels up to about 7j and et30, which is nice. I'm not going to stance the **** out of it as I still needs it as a daily, but it will definitely be going a bit lower and wider.
 
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