Search results

Saw this, and thought of this thread: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kA6DpXhGJWM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obqO4ksTh_Q

Seems the 06+ models can use Hondata flashpro as they are drive by wire :cool:

Lou @ TDi has a jig for an equal length front mount turbo manifold, with the EFR series turbos there is a built in BOV and wastegate, so all you need is a v-band for a 3" downpipe! Best to run an AEM standalone ECU on the F20c with some nice ID825 or 1000 injectors, I would want a low and high...

^Thanks for the info I like the look of the 7064: http://www.theboostlab.com/products/borg-warner-efr-series.html You could run bitch boost (8-9 psi) on a high efficiency twin scroll and make good power with low heat and stress. Boost by gear and torque limiting would save your gearbox and...

I would recommend a ClutchMasters FX400 as a streetable ceramic paddle clutch How much boost were you running on which turbines J7?

I'm trying to scope out a 2014 project, A boosted S2K is a great candidate. Will keep an eye on what you come up with rm

The s2000 F20c is a great one to boost, loads of builds running 500+ hp on a bone stock motor. Lou @ TDi was showing me one of the new twin scroll BorgWarner turbos being used on an EP3 project, the 7076 EFR turbo in that range is a 400 - 650hp rated unit that would be ultra quick spooling and...

Cool day out! Did you get any 0-100, or 30-70 times etc?

Changing the size or shape of the MAF without running a new MAF calibration is a massive error on the previous owners part! You need to go back to stock or get a flash pro tune for the new MAF now, before you detonate a rod out the side of the block!

Hytech and ASP are custom fabricators, while they do make some off the shelf (OTS) items, the real value in working with a motorsport fabricator is a bespoke product for a special motor build. For your build I would go for mainstream OTS brands, as the cost to benefit ratio is more favourable.

Thats why data > Forum rhetoric Chucking bolt-ons onto a stock ECU works okay Tuning them to a piggyback ECU works fantastic

A fly in the oil adds no extra power, you need to pour in a couple of ticks for extra Flea-tec y0

Parked up in a pay and display in St helens last week, chap walks up and asks what I think of these Subaru hatch backs and If I've had any issues... Must be the hood scoop :lol:

Makes me want to part out the civic, keep the motor and Kpro, then chuck it all into a 111s :smt054

Stock k20a2 block (EP3 Type R) 3.5" intake w/ bpi stack Spoon HG 70mm tb Skunk2 IM Prayoonto stg2 cams PLM header 3" exhaust Runs 13.4 @ 106 on street tyres

It would be good to know the use case and specifics of the motor youre running, you spec the cams to the engine cc, compression and typical rpm range in most cases.

You can buy the sport cat or test pipe options for the piper. I had both and just swapped the cat in for the MOT.

Header not headers, its an inline 4 on our cars. As an the off the shelf option, I vote piper.

Are you repairing a reground crank?

Do these fit the foglight holes on the face lift mugen splitter please?

2L all motor, street tyres.

You know what I meant

If you have to ask if you need a locking diff, you dont need one.

Model Of Car: EP3 Year Of Car: 2004 Mileage Covered: 105k Wheel BHP: Flywheel BHP: 280 Dyno Manufacturer: TDi-North's Modifications: Bolt-ons and cams

Your car is an embarrassment

Run three of these in a row for moar vtak

I would get a cheap B20 out of a CRV for the mighty B18/B20 frank conversion

Most likely out of a DC2 if it has a red cam cover, 190hp

Which Size / make ITB's did you go for?

Exedy stg1 and clutch masters stg1 have pretty good feedback in general.

Which manifold you mean? 4-2-1 race header is the config that makes the broadest power.

Just stumbled across this thread, I can totally appreciate what you're doing, but boy oh boy am I glad I didn't buy a Renault last year! :lol:

For a FI motor without a MAF sensor - bigger the better. Would strongly suggest a CAI format as the boosted air temps are already mental on a JRSC

Ah I never updated the thread on here... long story short - SRI bad, CAI good. 3" CAI is perfect for just bolt-ons 3.5" is good for cams, larger displacement etc

Unless you have worn out the valve seats and need to go oversize, OEM are fine.

I think lots of angry internet posts and empty threats will fix this problem for sure.

For a perfect fit on a UK car and the option of an MOT legal sport cat, you can't do a lot better than the Piper Header IMO

I think the slip joint design means that some movement is expected, this is why the header does not use a flexi section.

I have solid billet engine mounts and gear box mounts, so that should help. I'm also thinking of smearing the joints with high-temp silicone sealant just in case.

I hear ya If you want easy power and a bling parts list, a NASP civic R is not the right car. Im on my 4th intake, 2nd exhaust and 2nd header!

I've got a PLM/Kidd racing header in the loft right now - Did you find the slip joints needed sealing or welding to avoid blowing?

http://www.facebook.com/pages/KTuner-LLC/187553721350269 New kids on the block developing a k series management system. Rumored to be less than half the price of the hondata products!

He seemed really cagey about it, I guess that combo of parts and cams didnt work out.

I've never heard of someone grenading a motor running a race header on the stock tune.

Did that guy ever post a dyno chart after being tuned?

You will also need to budget for head work if your goal is 300 to the wheels. good luck with the build

If you want to make her car slower for safety reasons, its a great buy.

For stock compression go with the tuner series, and its a header not headers on an inline 4 BTW

Change the top aux belt pulley 1st as thats where most of the wine comes from.

My solid engine mounts killed the oem TPS, upgraded to a K-tuned item to cope with the vibrations. The k-tuned tps is filled with silicone and has beefed up internal wiring. If you are on stock motor mounts another oem will be fine, if youre on billets its worth upgrading.

I guess you dont know too much about the K20a? Also have you ever seen the header design you have to use in the back of a lotus? Its fecking woeful, also its tough to fit a better inlet manifold as the smaller OEM prb is usually already touching something.

I'm running the 62a Avids, would not run anything harder than this if you ever drive the car on the street.

Buy a k&n or blox filter with the 6" neck: take v-stack: insert inside filter and worm drive clamp it tight: attach the other end via a silicone coupler to your intake (I assume thats an AEM CAI with a 2.5" bore)

You just need to buy a filter with a 6" ID on the filter neck

About 25-30hp more than what you started off with.

Its annoying but I would recommend waiting until you have all the bolt on parts ready to get mapped up in one hit. Works out a lot cheaper in the long run, and makes a bigger impact when you go from stock to 240+hp!

http://www.afiturbo.com/2011/08/afi-turbos-k-series-intake-manifold/ Nothing beats a center port

Whats your budget?

Plenum volume is only half the story, the runner profile still sucks!

Injectors hit ~90% duty at ~260hp You'll need 650cc plus for medium boost

EP3 with bolt-ons and cams @ York raceway: I'm pretty pleased with that; my 1st ever time racing :-D

The chain should in theory last forever, but after a couple of 3rd instead of 5th shifts you'll find a bit of stretch :lol:

Get some Drag cartel DIC's, Kelford A's or TDi DIC's IMHO

Looks like a mid 14 second run?

In an EK a built K20 would still be really quick. If the car is used daily I would get OEM RRC rods and pistons for 11.7:1CR, then get some stage 2 cams and a 5 angle valve job on the head (stock ports can make over 300hp N/A no sweat) Thats a 275hp motor in a light car :cool:

RRC version of the K20z best engine evar

I have looked into this too, the idea is it sets an rpm limit between shifts. You keep your foot on the gas and the kpro sets the temp rpm ceiling untill the clutch is re-engaged. This is great for turbo cars as it keeps the boost at full whack for a whole drag race. I can't see the benefit on...

Contrary to popular belief, they run super rich without a Cat converter. Hence flamage.

It would have to have a race header or de-cat for flames.

Youre only just beginning mate...

This Plus the runs were months apart with different air temp, humidity and air pressure.

I have the skunk2 inlet and throttle also, I have kept the IACV on the throttle body. Did you blank yours off? Your TPS is way out for sure, its easy to reset to 0 / 100 but if there is too much air getting in from a mal adjusted idle screw it will still race at idle.

Hi Grant - glad you got your stroker build running and mapped up, which header / exhaust did you go with after? Regarding your idle issue, I had something similar, turned out to be the IACV - it needs to be removed and cleaned. Also you can check the Idle air assist valve and thottle screw...

I think you missunderstood my intentions, I'm not saying my approach is better - I'm backing up your plans for a proper solution! I'll most likely take one once they are ready :)

I've done some datalogging on the 3.5" intake and as expected the IAT valves are a about 10 degres higher than the CAI, these values drop once moving at speed quite nicely. Thought it would be rude not to do some pulls while datalogging: Did four pulls in total, worst was 5.2 seconds to...

Average tank 350 miles of mixed driving (+270hp N/A)

This is what I have done, im using a bell mouth, 90 degree silicone elbow and 3" ducting to feed cold air from the fog light to behind the headlamp:

If it works, it will be at high RPM This is where the pressure waves should be optimal in a short fat intake.

Sure thing buddy!

Heres the finished article, will probably run the rad hose under as it looks messy. Otherwise just need to book a little dyno time.

LOL no it isn't.

OD will be 76mm or 3" on the thottle, you wont be able to stretch the silicone that much. There must be a bunch of people running that intake on a 70mm TB? Do tegiwa supply just one size?

Most dyno's I've seen of the typical bolt-ons usually show the piper header to make 3-4hp more even with the 200 cel cat. I don't rate the DC header personally, the flexi seems to die quite often.

About 6 months ago everyone on here was telling me I was a dumb ass for wanting to fit a 3" exhaust to a NASP Honda. After I made 15hp extra in the midrange and 7hp at peak, the same armchair engine builders were pretty quiet... I would say go for it, see if it works!

Hi Hazz Without a race header I don't think aftermarket cams will make very much power at all. But good luck if you go that route, will look out for your dyno results.

You've got an RRC oil pump and upgraded valve springs right Loxy? How about going to stage 2??

Skunk2 cams eating TCT's again :( Glad it was spotted though!

Keep us posted on the cams!

Well im going from a 3" intake with a v-stack and k&n to a 3.5" intake with a v-stack and k&n, so its pretty fair. The only other variable is the length of the pipe work. Here they are side by side:

I always use a v-stack on my intakes, found 3hp before tuning at TDI-n just by slapping one on the end of a CAI with a filter. There is only one way to find out if its any good, stay tuned for dyno results...

Heres some supporting info: Test car - 8th gen civic SI (k20z3) TSX TB (64mm) Port matched RBC Hondata IMG SSReplica Header 2.5" exhaust kpro Baseline with 3" Injen CAI Swap for 3.5" intake (a prototype called blackmamba :lol: ) Wheel HP

Yes they are a mare to keep clean! I don't know it will work, but it was worth it for the craic. Guys in the states are making power with the larger diameter so I thought I would knock something up. Worst case senario I saved 7kg with the race battery... Its all about resonance and a bit of...

The theory is a larger diameter, shorter length intake benfits the helmholtz rensonance required for increased volumetric efficiency at high engine speed. In an ideal world you dyno test various lengths and diameters till you hit the sweet sport for your power band and motor config. I am...

Hope it comes up with a few extra hp next time i hit the dyno!

This is the Home made 90mm / 3.5" Semi CAI I've been working on. As far as I know its the first of its girth to be used in an EP chassis? I had to relocate the battery to make room:

I would recommend OEM Acura RDX injectors (410cc at stock pressure), I think Tegiwa sell them in the UK now?

Zoom Zoom > Sauer kraut

Mike drives a VW - his life is invalid.

268bhp with just bolt ons, nah.