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Adjusting the Clutch

It a replacement mate as it has no upgraded features compared to an oem clutch just a different company. :)
 
Bung an LSD in there while the clutch is out, save on labour costs FTW.
 
What LSD's do you guys recommend for an ep3?

And how much do these go for?

Also do these make a massive improvement on cornering?
 
This might also seem like a silly question but are there any tell tale signs to look out for which tell you that the Clutch is on it's way out?

My CTR has just clocked up 71K, now i don't really want to find myself stranded when the cluch gives up the ghost but at the same time i don't really want to replace it until i have too - i don't have best part of £500 lying around to spend it if i don't need to!!
 
kev, to put your mind at rest somewhat you can get an exedy clutch for £150 and then get it fitted at the garage i know for £200 so its £350 not £500.

clutch on way out is high bite point, heavy clutch, hard to get into gears.
 
rossy t said:
kev, to put your mind at rest somewhat you can get an exedy clutch for £150 and then get it fitted at the garage i know for £200 so its £350 not £500.

clutch on way out is high bite point, heavy clutch, hard to get into gears.
Click to expand...

Cheers Rossy £350 is much more pleasing than £500. Although based on your 'pointers' i'd say i don't need to worry just yet as the biting point is still low (just off the floor), i wouldn't have said it felt any different than previous (i.e. not heavy) & it still seems to slot into gear ok. I think i'll only look into getting it replaced when i start getting some of these symptoms.

:smt023
 
As people have said the mark they tend to go are 60-70k.. Mines just over 66k and the biting point is very low compared to my old ep2.. I barely lift my foot and it's already biting to go..

I'm going to change mine fairly soon just for peace of mind.. Atleast then it's done! ;)
 
Epic_Milano said:
As people have said the mark they tend to go are 60-70k.. Mines just over 66k and the biting point is very low compared to my old ep2.. I barely lift my foot and it's already biting to go..

I'm going to change mine fairly soon just for peace of mind.. Atleast then it's done! ;)
Click to expand...

This is what mines like. I took the comment that Rossy made about a 'high' biting point being a tell tale sign as meaning that the pedal comes off the floor a long way hence the word 'high'. If this is not the case then maybe mine is on it's way.
 
Ahh ok who can clear this up then as now its all a little confusing..

Low Biting Point - To reach biting point you lift the clutch half an inch, maybe 1 inch... (low travel)
High Biting Point - To reach biting point you life the cluch 3-4 inches... (high travel)

Which one would indicate early symptoms of yours clutch on its last legs?

Sam
 
biting point moves towards the top as the clutch wears. a biting point that is too low would indicate a problem with the hydraulics.
 
My biting point is low.. im not sure how low 'too low' in meant to be? What would be a 'safe' mesaurement that the clutch should travel before reaching biting point??

Also further to this.. my ep3 does not struggle with any gear changes, unlike my old ep2 which DID struggle intermittently and felt heavier, although this was sitting at 75k
 
i haven't owned a civic for a few years and only driven shagged ones but the consensus is the CTR has a low biting point. ie will creep forward with the clutch having been released very little. anything that is unusual would have to be diagnosed by a specialist or mechanic in the flesh.
 
Yeah this is pretty much exactly how mine drives... I lift the clutch half an inch, maybe an inch and it starts to creep forward slowly..

I have had no problems with gear changes so looks like mine is healthy for now... although will keep a close eye on it..

Rossy thanks for you help and I will keep your friend Chris in mind for when I do need to replace my clutch.. ;)
 
no problem. was chatting to chris the other night, need to get him signed up here as a trader.
 
Yeah that would definately pull in some business for him.. as he seems decent and prices are competitive..

Ill be spending my 365+ on some Eibach lowering springs, camber arms, front bolts and a FRSU.. I will have to give him a ring to see how he compares with ABP labour costs.
 
£100 for spring & parts fitting. no alignment machines onsite so could not do the geometry after, you'd have to take it elsewhere.
 
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