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EP3 EP3 track build almost complete

Si-85

Si-85

Messages
52
Ok so I started building my Red EP3 30th anniversary a while ago and it is just about to be complete when it comes back from SW Motorsport after having a roll cage fitted. I have done the following and looking for advise so anyone wants to add to it or advise on anything I’ve missed please do so.

Bolt in cage with cross bars
Welded in seat tubes
2x Corbeau seats
Luke Harneses
JDM rear arb
Adjustable steering arms
New inverted pillow ball track rod ends
Full geometry
New drop links
Clockwise motion Baffled sump
RPB braided hoses
RBF 600 fluid
BYC brake cooling plates & ducts
Full strip out of interior and carpets etc
Ferodo DS2500 pads alround
Slotted discs
Rear camber arms
Yellowspeed premium track coilovers (swapping fronts for inverted)
Billet engine mounts
Tegiwa Carbon airbox
Mugen front splitter
Radiator fan on toggle switch
Battery isolator inside & out
New battery
4-2-1 exhaust manifold
Decat and stainless Magnex oval exhaust system
Skunk 2 gearknob
X4 lightweight Enkai race wheels
MRF semi slick tyres
Steel wheel nuts
Oil filter change engine and gearbox
Front and back tow straps
Aerolatch bonnet catches
330mm steering wheel with quick release boss
Tegiwa Brake stopper
Civic cup sunstrip


I think that is about it, when it comes back from SW I have a steering wheel quick release boss kit to fit but haven’t ordered steering wheel yet as not had any seats in to try out and see what dish wheel I need. I will be fitting over this summer an M-Factory LSD and a K100 with civic cup map, also will be putting in some ACW polycarbonate windows. Will maybe have it corner weighted at some point too and I would like a mugen rear spoiler at some point.

If anyone can think of anything I’ve missed before my first track day then do say as this is my first time building a track car and not sure what is a must have and what is a want. I’d like to add some pics but can’t for the life in me figure out how to do it on this forum.
 
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Nice spec, personally I would have gone with some different pads. I have used the ds2500 on track and they leave deposits on the disc resulting in vibrations under heavy braking. Some more trackday focused pads would help. I'm going to try some pbs pads this year although my car is only used 2/3 times on track.
 
Thanks for the info,, lesson learned on that one as Shaun at SW also said to use PBS pads which I will do when the ferodo require changing.
 
Is this going to be just a pure track Car? Ever thought about zinc coated parts? Could pretty much make this into a civic cup spec car. How stripped is the interior?
 
Yes mate it’s a track dedicated car. Can’t say I have, why what parts are you talking about and what are the benifits from fitting? The interior is as stripped as it can be with only the dash and door cards remaining, door cards will come out when windows get replaced. I believe to make in to a civic cup car it will only require full weld in cage, extinguisher kit and rear rain light and it will be up to civic cup standard. If it had the K100 and LSD it would be a competitive specced cup car too. I aim to sell the bolt in cage next year and have a full weld in cage done, I intend to build it civic cup spec and anything extra I do will be a bonus, wether or not I get to race in the cup is a different matter as funds are already stretched and I need a while on track learning the car.
 
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Usually they go for like Sub frame wish bones main components like that the only real benefit is the protection from corrosion/rust etc plus they look a hell of a lot better than is they were powder coated etc Take a look at AreaMotorsport they build civic cup cars and also Rob races in it too as far as I'm aware hes very competitive in it. Yeah pretty much not far off the civic cup spec as it stands now, you'd just need a k100 or whatever you want to run and the civic cup map put on then you're pretty much there. I think the weight limit for it is something like 1100kg too but I'm not 100% sure on that. depending how deep you want to go with it have you thought about getting the wiring loom completely stripped? its amazing at how much you can actually lose haha
 
simon25 said:
Nice spec, personally I would have gone with some different pads. I have used the ds2500 on track and they leave deposits on the disc resulting in vibrations under heavy braking. Some more trackday focused pads would help. I'm going to try some pbs pads this year although my car is only used 2/3 times on track.
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I’ve just fitted PBS front pads in my ep3 and I don’t use mine much on track, however they are fantastic for road use straight away from cold, recommend to anyone. Only one small downside is they do leave a lot of dust on the wheels especially when driven hard, but apart from that I think there the best pads I need ever used :lol:
 
Ah cool wish I’d have known as had the sub frame off last week to fit the baffled sump, I will keep in mind and replace as I go now I know about them, cheers for the advise. Yes I have thought about stripping the wiring loom, I’ve just been learning as I go as I’ve done everything myself so far, when it has a full weld in cage then I’ll look more in to weight loss etc I’ll be able to loose some when I do the windows as I’ll get rid of all central locking and wiring in the doors at the same time. The air con is out and I thought about removing all heating fans and controls too, for now I’m just happy to get it on track and I’ll tinker with all this stuff as I go.
 
If spending that much on the car, I would just make sure that everything is MSA compliant so it could easily become a race car. You never know, and would massively help with resale value if your plans ever changed.
 
Yes that is what I have learned the hard way, i regret not putting in a full weld in cage but funds wouldn’t allow for it at this moment and I wanted to get it on track for this summer so figured I’d run it with this cage and then swap next year as should get a good chunk of money back for the bolt in to go towards the weld in. Other than that everything I have done and plan to do will be up to race spec.
 
Always great fun and cheap when you do it all you're self. Battery relocation is usually a good one to do too if you ever fancy doing that haha. But when you get around to getting rid of the windows and door cards you can just replace the door handle cable with a little pull switch and cable.
 
Ok so she’s now complete, got a track day booked and looking forward to it, ABS delete coming soon, K100 also on the list.
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Where are you off to for your track day?

When I go, generally start off with about 24/25 psi in the tyres when cold, keep an eye on those during the day and adjust to your liking once warm.

Check the oil too, should be okay but always worth a look at least at the lunch time break.

Build up your pace over time, don't worry about being quickest. Enjoy it because it a lot of fun!

Also away from the car, go and talk to other people, I really enjoy the social side of track days.
 
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Krzys said:
Where are you off to for your track day?

When I go, generally start off with about 24/25 psi in the tyres when cold, keep an eye on those during the day and adjust to your liking once warm.

Check the oil too, should be okay but always worth a look at least at the lunch time break.

Build up your pace over time, don't worry about being quickest. Enjoy it because it a lot of fun!

Also away from the car, go and talk to other people, I really enjoy the social side of track days.
Click to expand...


Good advise thank you. I have booked Blyton as it is close to me should something go wrong on the car etc. It’s more things on the car to keep an eye on for damage or wear etc I am looking for advise on, what wears out or is likely to brake on these motors. I have done a few track days before, but never even driven this EP3 let alone track it lol
 
We've been tracking an EP3 for two and a half years, we've split an engine mount, radiator popped and that pretty much it (Not on the same day I might add). Both of those parts were original and the car is a 2002 with 138k miles on.
 
That’s good to know, one of the reasons I got an EP3 was due to reliability, mine is still on the original radiator but I’ve put some Billet engine mounts on. As Shaun at SW Motorsport advised me to do so because they tend to split. I look forward to meeting a few other EP3 owners whilst at the track.
 
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