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Hazz's 1971 mental Mini Clubman - JDM B18CR engine

The engine is having a full rebuild now. I’ve got eagle rods, I’m not sure what pistons to go for. Spoon, CP or weisco. It’ll be a +.25mm oversize.

Might be back on the road in about a month.
 
Nice! Did you decide on CR?

I'm sure it's a fair investment, but not worth much broken to you or anyone else. It'll be worth it when it's all done and dusted.

Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
 
Hazz said:
The engine is having a full rebuild now. I’ve got eagle rods, I’m not sure what pistons to go for. Spoon, CP or weisco. It’ll be a +.25mm oversize.

Might be back on the road in about a month.
Click to expand...

I just hope you have the suspension, LSD, and brakes to match. Even as NA it had the power to weight ratio of a Ferrari F360, now it's gonna be supercar fast.
 
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Norv said:
Nice! Did you decide on CR?

I'm sure it's a fair investment, but not worth much broken to you or anyone else. It'll be worth it when it's all done and dusted.

Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I’m going to try and keep it as close to what it is now as I can, which is 13:1. Runs sweet, other than the smoke. Plus, high compression turbos aren’t as taboo as they once were.
 
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Vitka said:
I just hope you have the suspension, LSD, and brakes to match. Even as NA it had the power to weight ratio of a Ferrari F360, now it's gonna be supercar fast.
Click to expand...

It’s on coil spring suspension rather than rubber cones at the front with adjustable shocks and coil overs at the back. LSD is an Mfactory helical racepack diff and the brakes are (brand new) from an MGTF, EBC drilled & groved discs and green stuff pads :) Oh and the rear drums are ally superfins which are both lighter and more efficient.
 
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Engine should be in the machine shop next week. I’ve had to purchase a spare cylinder head just incase it all goes tits up, it was on eBay and I couldn’t pass up the chance. Hard to find the type r heads in good condition these days.

In the mean time, I collected the intake from Stevie and I’ve hand ported it to the throttle body and taken it for a vapour blast. Came up lovely.

uuCZby9.jpg


I didn’t do a perfect job on the porting but it’s a damn sight better than the 4 or 5mm step there was earlier. (I’ve thinned the ports, so even that part stuck out further originally).

AJw1Oxi.jpg


Few more weeks and it’ll be back home hopefully.
 
Chris. said:
Any updates Harry?
Click to expand...
Yooo only just seen this post sorry mate.

as it happens...it’s started going together today. I also spent yesterday afternoon at grinspeed giving the enginebay a tarting up whilst the engine is out. No pics from that I’m afraid but here’s some I shamelessly stole from Grinspeed’s FB.

C4776A71-6A7D-4B0D-8096-83AAAF151118.jpegFCC1E315-33D7-4DB8-817C-51A233FD9005.jpegB9047568-6100-4698-8AE7-50E7B6A4E506.jpeg0D3B5A90-499C-4B0D-9531-9018696CECF7.jpegC770C54B-FEC5-4E0D-B483-70201622B975.jpeg
Edit: thought I’d throw in what’s actually changed... it’s been bored 1mm oversize to remove the oval bore that was causing a lot of smoke. It was previously running 0.5mm overbored pistons. So this is the last chance for this block before it has to be resleved.

I went for a non forged piston, nippon racing, floating pin & with a very minor bump in compression from 11.1 to 11.7. This should complement the existing skunk2 tuner 2 cams nicely. These are running on the speedfactory rods, nice and light. Also being upgraded is the valvetrain, the cylinder head I bought came with all the top of the range skunk2 valves, springs retainers etc. Rod bolts and head studs are ARP & head gasket is OEM.... although if clearances are an issue after the head skim, I might have to go for a thicker one. TBD. New OEM oil pump, water pump, cam belt & seals throughout.
 
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TarmacNymph said:
I read "So this is the last chance for the block before it has to be binned"... :eek:

Glad I reread it, haha.
Click to expand...

tbh it may as well be, resleving a b series properly is tremendously expensive, 2k I was quoted for a dry deck. Apparently doing a conventional resleve rarely works due to some kind of Honda factory wizardry that’s hard to replicate, same for the cranks. Regrinds are pretty much a no go for most shops due to all the heat treatments etc. Mad how ahead of its time it was for what was effectively an 80’s engine
 
Today’s the day. Getting transported to ADE tuning at 9am for it’s running in map. Gonna restrict the revs to 5.5k for now. Put some miles on it and bring it back for a thrashing. Will update in due course :)
 
Good news: it has a map.
Bad news: it has no brake pedal. Dunno what happened there since it last moved. The slightly sus pedal previously is now non-existent. I’ve left it in Darwen to get sorted, mechanic there reckoned the calliper is stuck.
 
It's been a bit of a long journey this b18 swap. We had some issues with the cometic HG leaking oil which was since replaced with OEM & yet another set of head bolts. I've ran it in around 250 miles with mineral oil and changed to 10w40 helix yesterday. All looking good, booked in for the full tune next wednesday, it's been on a 5k rpm rev limit and retarded timing since the fresh build.

Engine spec is now:
JDM B18c
82mm nippon pistons, making it 1848cc & 11.7:1 compression (if calculated using unskimmed block and head, so probably more like 11.9 or 12:1)
Speedfactory H-beam con rods
Ported cylinder head
Skunk2 ultra series valves, springs, retainers & cam wheels
Skunk2 tuner 2 cams
Skunk2 70mm TB with port matched OEM manifold
Toyosport 4-2-1 & 2.5" straight through to backbox
Grams 550cc injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Exedy LW flywheel & OEM clutch
S9b gearbox with Mfactory 4.0 final drive & helical diff, long 5th gear

It made 214bhp last time, I'm hoping the head work, bigger bore, lighter valve train, H-beam rods and port matched intake will get me over the 220 mark. 230 if I'm lucky! Even with the retarded timing it sounds like it revs much more freely, sounds mean. I'll get another video for youtube & fingers crossed it doesn't end in tears!

I've also given up with the OBP pedal box the car came with and commissioned a custom one from compbrake in Wigan. That's now arrived at grinspeed.

In other news... nankangs. FML. AR-1 is the only tyre that's road legal and not absolute dogshit at 13". So they're on order replacing the old worn out Yoko A539s and next on the shopping list is a rear ARB kit from KAD engineering.
 
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Have you looked at Avon? They do a surprising amount in the classic motorsport market, and I know some of their offerings are E-marked.

That said, the AR1s do seem to have a good rep.
 
227bhp 173lb ft at the flywheel, 212 to the wheels.
:D

such a fcuking handfull :lol:

next up: new pedal box going in and then it’s geometry (custom bottom arms and aftermarket camber plates for the rear) and new tyres.

https://youtube.com/shorts/LgHS5ZxCqsk?feature=share6131AF30-B463-45C8-A9A5-48A18EEDB25D.jpeg
Edit: you can read this curve as follows;

oh shit, torque steer.

….

oh FCUK torque steer

*frantic corrections*

Car: fcuk you, here’s more.
 
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