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EP3 I am a total car noob but the Ep3 has always been my dream car since i was about 10.

Is it your daily? If so, I'd probably look at something like Pilot Sport 4 over AD08R's. Don't get me wrong, the Yoko's are fantastic tyres but in the wet they can be quite slippy especially if you're inexperience behind the wheel when the rear end starts moving away from you. One thing I always found with the EP3 is that the rear does like to dance a lot, especially when it's wet.
 
Yeah it's my daily and I haven't ever been on a track I'm only buying the AD08R's based off the reccomendations from here. Will google the Pilots now. Any comments regarding anti roll bars?
 
Daikiyamane said:
Yeah it's my daily and I haven't ever been on a track I'm only buying the AD08R's based off the reccomendations from here. Will google the Pilots now. Any comments regarding anti roll bars?
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Rear JDM one is a good upgrade.

Why are you spending money in your head already? What do you find lacking?
 
Chris. said:
Plus with these cars there's probably a grand you can spend to make sure the alignment is right, all calipers are sliding freely, drop links renewed, bushes replaced, new engine mounts, new clutch etc etc.

But come on lads, we were all young once. I can totally see why the OP wants more noise/power. It's what I did with my first CTR. Till I wrote it off. :lol: But then I got a second one and modded it again before finally getting a DC5. Which I wrote off. :oops: :lol:
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S2000 cough cough
 
Daikiyamane said:
I don't really find anything lacking in particular if I'm honest, I just want to make it as awesome as I can.
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Then my advise is to do what I suggested before:

Chris. said:
Plus with these cars there's probably a grand you can spend to make sure the alignment is right, all calipers are sliding freely, drop links renewed, bushes replaced, new engine mounts, new clutch etc etc.
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It will make a huge difference.
 
Be careful with the engine mounts though, buying the wrong kind can load to some godawful cabin vibration/noise (as I found out the hard way). Bushes can be similar (squeaking etc.). Depends what you're after.

Besides, aren't the mounts mostly about cutting down on engine movement for improved shifts and decreased wheel tramp? If you're not tracking it how much benefit does that provide assuming the OEM rubber ones are in acceptable form?
 
mike.h said:
Be careful with the engine mounts though, buying the wrong kind can load to some godawful cabin vibration/noise (as I found out the hard way). Bushes can be similar (squeaking etc.). Depends what you're after.

Besides, aren't the mounts mostly about cutting down on engine movement for improved shifts and decreased wheel tramp? If you're not tracking it how much benefit does that provide assuming the OEM rubber ones are in acceptable form?
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I mean having them inspected by a specialist while having a once over and if needed, changing for OEM items. The cars are getting on now and most won't have had any changed at all. So while the car may feel nice and tight, there may be substantial improvements to be had.
 
mike.h said:
Be careful with the engine mounts though, buying the wrong kind can load to some godawful cabin vibration/noise (as I found out the hard way). Bushes can be similar (squeaking etc.). Depends what you're after.

Besides, aren't the mounts mostly about cutting down on engine movement for improved shifts and decreased wheel tramp? If you're not tracking it how much benefit does that provide assuming the OEM rubber ones are in acceptable form?
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I had the engine mount inserts done when I had the gearbox done, I'm completely oblivious to it now as it's been two years haha!
 
Daikiyamane said:
I've looked slightly into coilovers and it seems as though a good set of those is about 1500. Do you all run non standard Anti Roll bars? That seems like a relatively inexpensive change and sounds like it is quite beneficial? I'm sorry to hear that you've written two cars off though Chris, can't imagine how sad both of those days must've been....
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Coilovers are not the best idea for a daily IMO.

I've driven many cars on coilovers and I've never once thought, 'oh, the ride is surprisingly good'. Some people seem to be able to cope with them but I think they're just lying to themselves in an attempt to justify their stanced-out-y0 whip.

There are several manufacturers who make progressive lowering springs for the EP3. I'd recommend looking into those if you want to lower your car & improve handling... but not before camber arms & bolts and a good geo set up - that'll make the biggest difference to the handling (other than an LSD).
 
The only thing I know from your list is clutch, and if I'm honest with you this clutch is only the second I've ever tried myself for any prolong period of time and it seems as though it's working absolutely fine, the bite point is sooo much lower than what my golf was. The car was kept in an underground London car park and me being the second owner it really hasn't been driven much at all considering its age so I don't know how worn things like those will be. I'm definitely going to do some more research into handling performance though, google is proving relatively helpful regarding FRSU, I'm assuming that's what you mean by alignment? My wheel alignment is fine maybe ever so slightly off but that's like a £30 job is it not?
 
Daikiyamane said:
The only thing I know from your list is clutch, and if I'm honest with you this clutch is only the second I've ever tried myself for any prolong period of time and it seems as though it's working absolutely fine, the bite point is sooo much lower than what my golf was. The car was kept in an underground London car park and me being the second owner it really hasn't been driven much at all considering its age so I don't know how worn things like those will be. I'm definitely going to do some more research into handling performance though, google is proving relatively helpful regarding FRSU, I'm assuming that's what you mean by alignment? My wheel alignment is fine maybe ever so slightly off but that's like a £30 job is it not?
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Wheel alignment and geometry set up aren't usually the same thing.

A full geo set up will require added parts, rear camber arms and front camber bolts. This will allow you to dial in some negative camber and gain a consistency across the axels, something the huge Honda manufacturing tolerances generally don't achieve. A geo set up will also include tow, which is generally what is adjusted in a wheel alignment.
 
Yeah it's my friend that pushed me towards coilovers but I don't want the ride to be ridiculously stiff the roads aren't that great around where I live so it's all a bit bumpy as it is just with factory settings. Can you provide me with a couple of examples Hazz? I'm not hugely interested in that "super low" look but as you all say, if I can improve the handling significantly before I think about power then I should probably do that, I appreciate all the advice though. To be honest in my opinion the ride feels good as standard, but then I don't know what a different setup would feel like. Gonna talk to TGM about FRSU but explain how I don't want everything super stiff due to the poor nature of my local roads
 
If the bite point is low and the pedal firm then your clutch is on its way out. The standard clutch on the EP3 bites pretty high and is quite smooth/light (or should be).

In order to get the Fast Road SetUp done (FRSU) it involves alignment of all 4 wheels (rather than just the fronts as occurs on a cheap/regular alignment) and also involves adjustment of wheel camber (how far in/out the top edge of the tyre is tilted relative to the bottom). This necessitates having camber bolts installed at front and camber arms at rear as the EP3 doesn't have adjustable camber from the factory. If you're also planning on getting replacement springs (like the Eibach Pros) then you should have all of this done at the same time since otherwise you'd need to get the alignment done again, a price a lot higher than thirty quid.

EDIT: beat me to it Hazz :p :)
 
mike.h said:
If the bite point is low and the pedal firm then your clutch is on its way out. The standard clutch on the EP3 bites pretty high and is quite smooth/light (or should be).

In order to get the Fast Road SetUp done (FRSU) it involves alignment of all 4 wheels (rather than just the fronts as occurs on a cheap/regular alignment) and also involves adjustment of wheel camber (how far in/out the top edge of the tyre is tilted relative to the bottom). This necessitates having camber bolts installed at front and camber arms at rear as the EP3 doesn't have adjustable camber from the factory. If you're also planning on getting replacement springs (like the Eibach Pros) then you should have all of this done at the same time since otherwise you'd need to get the alignment done again, a price a lot higher than thirty quid.

EDIT: beat me to it Hazz :p :)
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I recently paid £100 for FRSU alignment FYI
 
Oh wow Mike sadly from what you've basically just told me, my clutch must be on its way out, because I am really quite surprised by how firm the clutch is ive been complaining about it to my mates I just assumed it's because it's a sport vehicle that it would be firm, the bite point is low, literally slightly raise my foot and it's pulling. So looks like all my dreams are fading away from me :( clutch is 500 is it not? Does anyone know of a rough cost of a FRSU with all parts? Even roughly, 500 or 1000 kinda thing? So saddened by this clutch news.
 
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