• Registered users are encouraged to enable MFA/2FA to add an aditional layer of security to their account. More information can be found here: https://www.ncsc.gov.uk/collection/top-tips-for-staying-secure-online/activate-2-step-verification-on-your-email

Modding for the non hardcore

seano

seano

Messages
419
OK so you've done the induction, the ECU and the manifolds. You are up in the early two hundred plus BHP mark, so where do you go next when

1) You do 25000 miles a year
2) You need the car to be reliable to get to work
2) Your car is 28 months old and is probably only worth 8-9K

Approx Costs with parts labour & VAT

a) You could do the cams takes you to say 220+BHP - 2K
b) You take the basic supercharger route maybe 240+ BHP - 3K
c) Nutter Turbo charge the b*st*rd maybe 260+ BHP 5K (and accept that it wont last long)
d) Fit the TODA stroker and A3 Cams 265 BHP 5.5K

Or do you just

i) be content with what you've got.
ii) buy a quicker car


Seano
 
Unless you dont mind spending £5k that you will never get back, just be happy with what you've got!
 
Imo JRSC it....Well worth the money, and you'd be so impressed with it. makes a big difference, and will put a huge smile on your face hearing that whirring away. Awesome noise! ;)

Try get yourself in someones JRSC car and go for a spin, you'll want one! Do that and be happy with it unless you plan on doing alot of trackdays etc! ;) Then spend money on stopping! :lol:
 
c) Nutter Turbo charge the b*st*rd maybe 260+ BHP 5K (and accept that it wont last long)
Click to expand...

Turbo done right will last as long as any other conversion to be honest

Bang for bucks I personally dont think you will beat the supercharger option
 
Hmm

Just depends what u want really!

If you looking for more power i would recommend a Evo or a Scooby but the running cost of them are bloody high!

Any more power mods u will have to upgraded suspension and brakes to cope.

SC is the best value for money, but if u run more than 4PSI, the reliablity in the long term is questionable becos no one has had a SC for no longer than about 2yrs!

Cams will be more fun to drive with Vtec engine and more usable power than running a SC at 8PSI.

As for suspension, i would recommend Spoon springs with standard shocks if you would like some comfort.

If u can handle the harsh ride then i would recommend Tein Super Street coilovers.

I recommend getting an LSD aswell

As for brakes:

Ferodo DSC 2500 pads
Uprated Braided Hoses and Brake fluid
DBA/Tarox/ Brake Discs.

If money is no objective, then go for the Spoon Caliphers.
 
Thanks for the replies so far. I've progressively modded the suspension and brakes as I've gone along and already have an LSD. Actually its due new disks and pads all round shortly (probably DBA gold and DS2500's again).

I can't really lower the b*st*rd becuase of the speed bumps at work - anyway I'm trying to keep it the "silver sleeper" - hence the standard back box!

Lets say I go the cam route as the final mod for this fast depreciating asset. A3's or a set of secondhand N2's which I could probably get for a few hundred less say £1400 instead of £1900 fitted?

Seano
 
I'd say spending that much on the car is pretty hardcore? Maybe with the exception of a.

Anyway, it's up to you really. All those most will offer different things. See if you can pair up with people that have them and go with which one you like best.

- Kevin.
 
if u dont to lower it, i would recommend that u get

front and rear strut braces
JDM front & rear swaybars
Lower Spoon lower tie rod
Uprated engine mounts
maybe a C pillare bar aswell.

also go for a:

A SPOON OR JAP BRAND B pipe
 
Already got the JDM roll bars for the Spoon manifold which goes into my Spoon B. I did have the energy engine mounts in all round, but I've only got the back ones in currently (too much vibration for an old sod like me even with the tickover lowered).

I was thinking about the J's strut with damper (set to soft->medium) as my under the bonnet mod that looks cool whilst protecting the manifold from too much flexing.

Seano
 
but I've only got the back ones in currently (too much vibration for an old sod like me even with the tickover lowered
Click to expand...

with kpro u raise the tickover to 900/1000 for less vibrations...
 
Fire_2 said:
but I've only got the back ones in currently (too much vibration for an old sod like me even with the tickover lowered
Click to expand...

with kpro u raise the tickover to 900/1000 for less vibrations...
Click to expand...

I agree, my idle as been raised and the vibrations in the cabin are so much better.

- Kevin.
 
I think mine was on about 1100 so it was lowered to about 900 - I guess it depends on where you start - one thing we all agree on wrong tickover is very unconfortable - I drove it for a week and it was far to hardcore for this old fogey. I think I had to go to the dentist to have my fillings redone.

Anyway cams - A/N2 or the extra and go for new A3 chaps - thats the question. My thinking is my scottish upbringing will force me to stop modding after this as I would have to either change cams (supercharging) or manifold
(turbocharging) and my bank manager won't let me go stroker!


Seano- did I ever tell you about the Blitz?
 
Seano, I hate to say this, and many my disagree with me but the fact is in the real world you will notice barley any diference up to the limit of legal speeds (80 mph say) if you just change cams or 4psi JRSC. As far as being a noticable difference to what you have now.

Sure they will (especially the charger) give you a tad more flexability. The extra torque you get makes in gear acceleration times less. And enable you to pull at higher speeds.

I have been running my 4psi JRSC for nearly 20 months now (that long :eek: ), And having driven it alongside most CTR's in many states of tune I can say with confidence that though It may pull ahead at over 80 mhp there is rarely more than a car legnth difference up to that point.

Having said that however, it does mean I can overtake with a tad more confidence and need to stir the gear box a bit less, also in regards to motorway cruising it is a much more potent weapon. I can pull from 60 mph in 6th gear up to silly speeds in a blink. Makes for those having to pull out in an emergency situations because some numpty pulls out on you in a whitevan! So i do not regret getting it and it has so far been reliable.

I just wanted you not to expect a huge difference. You will notice more I feel if you pay more attention to Chassis, Brakes and LSD. Just as a further point dispite all my extra power I cannot keep up with a DC2 in the twisties :). And only pull away on the streights from 70-80mph or so.

Again not saying it is not worth it. Just that the differences are more subtle than you may think.

Of course going 8psi or for a Turbo will give you more but then as have been said traction does start to become a factor. And again you will really notice the difference at the top end, though a bit lower say from 60 mph say, which is when i noticed Typys JRSC'd JDm car running 8psi started to pull away from me. but on the same day in the same conditions it was at a 1/4mile only 4 tenths of a second quicker than me. Though he did manage 158mph and I managed 151 mph...but when will that matter.

No more impressed was I by Hovblacks car because of the LSD and brakes. you entered corners faster...braking later...and could punch out quicker by getting the power down better.

So in a nutshell I would stay where you are unless top end is more important. And put an LSD on, then a set of Stop Tech, AP or even Spoon Callipers.


Oops sorry for going on.
 
Good sensible replies, thanks.

I've now pretty well ruled out the JSRC/Turbo/Stroker route. The problem with the cams trick is that it's quite expensive because of the labour (10 hours and remapping approx £560). I begining to think that if you are going to do this that you need to really be going for the A3's rather than the A/N2's. Overall there isn't much in that would justify the the cost of new A3 versus second hand A2, however the torque and BHP gains of the A3 at 5500 RPM are signicantly better.

Turning to chassis & brakes...

Spot on about the LSD it completly transforms the turn in and putting the power down out of corners, however in tightening up the front end I have noticed that the back end is a little more prone to be wayward especially if the camber is wrong - I'm going to try the JDM rear anti rollbar to see if that cures the issue.


I'm running EBC disks with DS2500 which are pretty shot. I have to say the car stops pretty well and gives me confidence, but the EBC disks used to throw off a hell of a lot of rusty coloured dust - mine was the dirty siver one with the reddy brown wheels! The slots have virtually gone now as has the dust, which is perhaps EBC's unofficial wear indicator. I'm quite impressed with the DBA Gold disks on the TDI car, they been on for a while now and still look good so I'll probably go for them this time. I don't do track days and have never felt the brakes getting tired/over hot, so I think I will stick with the standard calipers & lines for the moment.


I think Julian's beast Hovblack was one of the best examples of the CTR. I doubt anybody will be able to lovingly craft such a car again - it was just so right everywhere, with real attention to detail. Honda UK should have bought that as a show/museum car.


OK then folks - I think I have the answers (though not necesarrily the dosh)

Jan - Jay's Racing front strut and damper & JDM rear anti roll bar
Feb - New DBA Gold disks and DS2500 pads all round (maybe even new brake fluid and a couple of old sox over the reservoirs for the pro look)
Apr - A3 cams Finance/Pension permitting

Many thanks for the advice again.

Seano (JC! thats 3 grands worth)
 
Sean, let me take you out in my car with Tein coilovers, the ride is virtually the same as it is with Tein springs but the cornering is way way better. If you can cope with springs you'll have no problem with correctly configured coilovers.

A3's give slightly more power midrange, but top end it's all very similar. After speaking at length with TP (and driving his car) I'd say A3's feel like stock cams, there isn't a sudden surge in power @ 5k like you get with N2's. Thus, N2's for fun, A3's for that extra mid range speed.

PS - 2nd hand cams and new valve springs are costing me ~£720 (plus about another £300 fitting) and should see it on a par with the 4psi people. Waaaay cheaper than a charger and my fuel economy retained :wink:

Paul
 
Paul we should go for a we blast one day and do some comparisons :) I may even have access to GPS datronics logging ;) :) Just for interests sake.

Oh and I am under no illusions about there being a huge difference tbh. As I have said I rekon you may have the edge initialy, then I may pull away at the top but perhaps not by much.

The one thing you do get with the JRSC is the sound, if you like that sort of thing....which I do ;) :)
 
I'm reviewing the situation

Well my mind was made up on going the cam route, however I've realised that there is a problem if you ever want to sell your car as your options are limited:

find a buyer who is happy to pay for your mods (including cams & KPro)
spend £400 having the cams swapped back allowing you to remove the KPro

Suddenly the supercharger becomes more attractive.

...I think I'd better think it out again!

Seano aka Fagin

PS

And tho' I'd be the first one to say that I wasn't a saint...
I'm finding it hard to be really as black as they paint...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top