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Poorly EP3 Rolling road result!!

jimbo_TR_

jimbo_TR_

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This has an up side, Ive got a Civic Type R EP3 52 reg pre facelift and had it on the dyno the other day, the final BHP figure was 180.3, at least when I get whatever it is sorted I'll feel a little more power, can anyone help as to what this may be I know it's a little vague but the garage suggested it may be a stretched timing chain, valve clearances or something similar, all fueling results came out ok along with all sensors. I hope this aint gonna cost me loads as I wanted to tune the engine at some point but theres no point doing this on a poorly engine :(
 

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Ten percent down on power on a seven year old engine? I think that is fine... KPro and a decent map will get it sorted for you.

Thoughts from the forum members?
 
Hmm... I'm no engine expert but I'd expect a loss in overall power due to wear and tear.

Looking at the graph, the plots are all going in the right direction and you are still making healthy torque at the 3,000rpm mark.

I can only think of an engine rebuild to get the extra horses back, or KPro or JRSC.
 
What sort of mileage has it done?
Has it had a service recently?

How hot was it on the day you had it on the rollers, this can affect final power. Hotter days = less power.

Nice new oil, plugs, fuel filter and get the valve clearance done. All those will help for sure and not cost too much.

A rebuild is a little extreme, cant see you need to do that to gain back the lost power.
 
You can't expect your engine to stay in brand new condition even if you take care of it and have it serviced regularly. As Raj has already said, it's down to wear and tear.

The top gear boys did a challenge a few seasons ago where they had to buy old supercars and when they dyno'd them they had all lost a fair bit of horse power from the new figures because they were getting on a bit.
 
I thought when engine's get loser they produce a tiny bit more power? A local garage builds old K-series engine to race and he always uses old or slightly lose bottom end shells.
 
Chiffs said:
What sort of mileage has it done?
Has it had a service recently?

How hot was it on the day you had it on the rollers, this can affect final power. Hotter days = less power.

Nice new oil, plugs, fuel filter and get the valve clearance done. All those will help for sure and not cost too much.

A rebuild is a little extreme, cant see you need to do that to gain back the lost power.
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It's done 115k with full honda history, it's been a good 10 months since the last one though so maybe when the service comes up i'll mention it, it was a normal day, not too hot or cold. so what sort of money am I looking at for the valve clearances?
 
Jermal said:
You can't expect your engine to stay in brand new condition even if you take care of it and have it serviced regularly. As Raj has already said, it's down to wear and tear.

The top gear boys did a challenge a few seasons ago where they had to buy old supercars and when they dyno'd them they had all lost a fair bit of horse power from the new figures because they were getting on a bit.
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Fair quote mate I'm just worried about modifying the engine on these foundations or am I ok to carry on regardless, after this years service of course.
 
Vtec_si said:
I thought when engine's get loser they produce a tiny bit more power? A local garage builds old K-series engine to race and he always uses old or slightly lose bottom end shells.
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Yes. maybe, but a loose engine isn't necessarily a worn one.

I'd have thought modding will be fine as long as the engine is sound. A loss in power doesn't necessarily mean it's knackered.
 
Vtec_si

Using older bottom ends means that any stress fractures would have been dealt with and if that section was going to give up then it would have done so. Local garage mechanic is being clever.

Doing the tappets is a 1.5hr job - 2 hours if I help you. ;)

It is not particularly hard and if you are handy with a spanner set and use the right feeler gauges then you can do them yourself. There is a how-to written up on tappet adjustments too. My Dad got me to rotate the engine using a breaker bar instead of rolling the car along the garage which makes the job easier.
 
dragonflyjade said:
Vtec_si

Using older bottom ends means that any stress fractures would have been dealt with and if that section was going to give up then it would have done so. Local garage mechanic is being clever.
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Was just going to say that mate! Back in the the turbo era of F1 in the 80's, BMW only used blocks from road cars that had covered over 150,000 km, and they left them out in the rain to 'weather' the blocks!
 
The thing is aswell, you cant actually say for certain that when your car left the production line it was bang on 197bhp. It could of been 190 odd or even 180. If its running well with no probs I wouldnt actually worry about it mate.
 
Plus........... the most important thing about a dyno............. having some other cars there for comparison.
 
I'd be checking the air filter straight away tbh, the graph flattens way too early IMO. Just get it serviced properly and then start looking at other possible faults.
 
Here's a muppet question (sorry for hijacking) - what do you do at a rolling road? Like once the car's strapped and connected up, what happens in terms of "driving" it? I'm going to one tomorrow and don't want to be a total n00blet :lol:
 
Well with my timing chain jumped about 4 teeth and still made 218 bhp (with intake, exhaust & Kpro) on RR.

So about 1% down, which makes me think you've either got serious stretch or really bad timing which you'd notice.

It's not too big of a job to check though, rocker cover of and rotate engine until dots, lines and marks on chain line up.
 
What exhaust and intake are you running Hoydonk? i made 212 on mine with just intake and exhaust
 
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