Suits
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Nice, was it similar to OEM on the FD2 as well ??
Suits' Cosmic EP3 - ***Oil Leak 08/09/23
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Nice, was it similar to OEM on the FD2 as well ??
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Yeah very similar. Just different internally IIRC, plus on the FD2 there is a noise suppression box I think which the Mugen does away with.
Suits
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Got it all fitted this morning at a nice chilled pace and everything went to plan.
Points of Mention
The Mugen Air Box is considerably lighter than the OEM, I didn't weigh them but it's maybe a third lighter by the hand. The air duct cone on the OEM air intake is narrow and points to the side of the engine bay behind the battery, the Mugen one has a wider cone and is tucked directly above the radiator taking in air as it comes rushing through the grill on the front of the car. Odd decision by Honda to place the intake there but they must have their reasons.
Fitting
Took my time to check that everything was all as it should be and did the install in a few stages making sure everything was lining up and fitting as it should.
Fits very well in terms of just bolting on really, for what it is. No cutting or taking off body parts, just lines up perfectly with all the OEM fixings from the air box base to the ducting and the breather hose.
That said, I did end up making two small adjustments to the OEM fittings just to take some of the tension out of the joins.
1 - Cut guide nipple off OEM intake hose. The Mugen air box doesn't have the recess that the OEM box has, so it fouls when the fit is snug - off it came.
2 - Trim about 100mm off the cam cover breather hose as the Mugen Air Box lid leans ever so slightly to the left more than the OEM box.
Air Ducting
This was a fiddle, although thankfully all the fittings for it were present and lined up a treat. The problem you have is that it's impossible to connect the three pieces whilst they are in situ on the car, you just can't get the purchase.
What worked for me, was assembling the cone, duct and bottom half of the air box first then sort of hooking the duct in first from the top and bringing it towards the bumper whilst placing the air box into it's seating. The instructions asks you to remove the battery and the coolant hose - there's no way I was dropping the coolant, I did move the battery tie which gave me a few mm to squeeze it all in.
The rest was as simple as putting the filter in, screwing the lid down and fitting the intake and breather hose.
Performance
1 - Throttle response has clearly improved
2 - The noise in VTEC is certainly deeper and a higher tone making it more audible (both with the window up and down).
**Two visible screws missing on the lid in this pic, intentional, this was just the engine test.
Points of Mention
The Mugen Air Box is considerably lighter than the OEM, I didn't weigh them but it's maybe a third lighter by the hand. The air duct cone on the OEM air intake is narrow and points to the side of the engine bay behind the battery, the Mugen one has a wider cone and is tucked directly above the radiator taking in air as it comes rushing through the grill on the front of the car. Odd decision by Honda to place the intake there but they must have their reasons.
Fitting
Took my time to check that everything was all as it should be and did the install in a few stages making sure everything was lining up and fitting as it should.
Fits very well in terms of just bolting on really, for what it is. No cutting or taking off body parts, just lines up perfectly with all the OEM fixings from the air box base to the ducting and the breather hose.
That said, I did end up making two small adjustments to the OEM fittings just to take some of the tension out of the joins.
1 - Cut guide nipple off OEM intake hose. The Mugen air box doesn't have the recess that the OEM box has, so it fouls when the fit is snug - off it came.
2 - Trim about 100mm off the cam cover breather hose as the Mugen Air Box lid leans ever so slightly to the left more than the OEM box.
Air Ducting
This was a fiddle, although thankfully all the fittings for it were present and lined up a treat. The problem you have is that it's impossible to connect the three pieces whilst they are in situ on the car, you just can't get the purchase.
What worked for me, was assembling the cone, duct and bottom half of the air box first then sort of hooking the duct in first from the top and bringing it towards the bumper whilst placing the air box into it's seating. The instructions asks you to remove the battery and the coolant hose - there's no way I was dropping the coolant, I did move the battery tie which gave me a few mm to squeeze it all in.
The rest was as simple as putting the filter in, screwing the lid down and fitting the intake and breather hose.
Performance
1 - Throttle response has clearly improved
2 - The noise in VTEC is certainly deeper and a higher tone making it more audible (both with the window up and down).
**Two visible screws missing on the lid in this pic, intentional, this was just the engine test.
Suits
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Yes mate, funny you should say that, I did and it was fine.
It was like a sort of muscle memory thing, even gave it a big squeeze to see if it was on the way
.
Suits
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Did some pre-preventative maintenance this past month.
I always knew, or rather planned to get a big service carried out when I bought the car, mainly for peace of mind and to ensure she runs for another 17 years and 100,000 miles.
Anyway, after being let down continuously by a recommended local garage - I couldn't hold out any longer and went with a new garage in East Anglia (BB Performance) that did all the work for me.
I had carried out;
Upon removing it, it was clear it was still the OEM clutch from new - lol.
This is where it gets funny.
Similar to the clutch, the timing chain was still from new, look how much it had stretched...
**Old left new right
And the timing chain, runner/guide had also snapped !!
Not sure how this happened but it clear snapped in two along the metal end.
The plastic part did have some excess wear on it, from what looked like the chain hitting it when coming over the cam.
Other than those two shocking realisations everything went as planned and the overall the car is still doing well and healthy, underside is all clean and still sealed well.
The new clutch is wonderful compared to the old one as I'm sure people can imagine, braking has a more bit when really pressing the pedal - I have kept with the existing pads for now as they have life and I have no plans for any track time soon so I will leave it with just the lines and fluid.
Next one the list is a spare set of wheels (that'll I refurbish) and new tyres. Pilot Sports of some sort, the Nexans whilst having lots of tread left are uninspiring but again, I'll use these until I need new tyres and in the mean time be on the lookout for a straight set of OEM wheels.
Plus I have some little bits and pieces that will tidy things up a tad, new plates, new LED's, etc....
On the way back, she rolled over....
I always knew, or rather planned to get a big service carried out when I bought the car, mainly for peace of mind and to ensure she runs for another 17 years and 100,000 miles.
Anyway, after being let down continuously by a recommended local garage - I couldn't hold out any longer and went with a new garage in East Anglia (BB Performance) that did all the work for me.
I had carried out;
- Full service (minus panel filter for the Mugen intake as it's new)
- Timing Chain & Tensioner
- Timing chain runner guide
- Valve Clearances
- Goodridge Braided Lines
- ATE TYP 200 Fluid
- New OEM clutch and fluid
Upon removing it, it was clear it was still the OEM clutch from new - lol.
This is where it gets funny.
Similar to the clutch, the timing chain was still from new, look how much it had stretched...
**Old left new right
And the timing chain, runner/guide had also snapped !!
Not sure how this happened but it clear snapped in two along the metal end.
The plastic part did have some excess wear on it, from what looked like the chain hitting it when coming over the cam.
Other than those two shocking realisations everything went as planned and the overall the car is still doing well and healthy, underside is all clean and still sealed well.
The new clutch is wonderful compared to the old one as I'm sure people can imagine, braking has a more bit when really pressing the pedal - I have kept with the existing pads for now as they have life and I have no plans for any track time soon so I will leave it with just the lines and fluid.
Next one the list is a spare set of wheels (that'll I refurbish) and new tyres. Pilot Sports of some sort, the Nexans whilst having lots of tread left are uninspiring but again, I'll use these until I need new tyres and in the mean time be on the lookout for a straight set of OEM wheels.
Plus I have some little bits and pieces that will tidy things up a tad, new plates, new LED's, etc....
On the way back, she rolled over....
Suits
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So, the fcuking thing has been bleeding.
Noticed as I was reversing onto the drive one evening.
Took the car around the back and got it up in the air to have a proper look.
It's clearly a little leak that looks like it had been happing for about a week based on the individual location of the spots on my drive.
The oil was dripping off the subframe, the sump and a few scattered places that made identify the leak tricky.
Important to point out that all this took place over the space a few weeks, trying to locate the leak. A combination of cleaning things off, driving it, putting carboard under it over night and systematically going through things to rule them out.
Now without the actual leak being too obvious, it was clear that it was coming from the bottom, back right of the block - localised in that area.
Starting from the top of the block and working my way down.
First point of call was the oil filter and seal, gave it a clean, left it a few days nothing.
Next was the timing chain inspection hatch, the little plate with the X marked on it.
Managed to nip the bottom bolt up a quarter turn, so was encouraged by that, cleaned it off and left it a few days.
Still dripping.
Now, whilst the area around the hatch was sweaty, as was the actual hatch, so I surmised that whilst there was a still a leak I didn't think it was the cover.
The only other thing there was to investigate was the crank pulley underneath the timing chain hatch and it's seal.
I left this until last as this was a bigger job that if I was going to get into it, I'd really get into it.
Cleaned it all off, ran the car for a few days, had a look - sweaty.
I ordered a new crank seal and two bearings for the pulleys as they were likely very tired and were making a bit of a noise, so while I was in there did that as well.
Got the pulley off, changed the seal, switched the bearings in the pulleys and got it all back together.
Ran the car for a few days - all good so far.
What I think has happened is that the crank seal failed, looked fine when I took it out to be fair, albeit a bit soft (***for some reason I have no pics of the seals). The leak would then seep onto the crank pulley, then get flung onto the block, the subframe, the driveshaft, all over the gaff.
So fingers crossed I've nipped that and we'll be all tight and secure again.
We will see.
Noticed as I was reversing onto the drive one evening.
Took the car around the back and got it up in the air to have a proper look.
It's clearly a little leak that looks like it had been happing for about a week based on the individual location of the spots on my drive.
The oil was dripping off the subframe, the sump and a few scattered places that made identify the leak tricky.
Important to point out that all this took place over the space a few weeks, trying to locate the leak. A combination of cleaning things off, driving it, putting carboard under it over night and systematically going through things to rule them out.
Now without the actual leak being too obvious, it was clear that it was coming from the bottom, back right of the block - localised in that area.
Starting from the top of the block and working my way down.
First point of call was the oil filter and seal, gave it a clean, left it a few days nothing.
Next was the timing chain inspection hatch, the little plate with the X marked on it.
Managed to nip the bottom bolt up a quarter turn, so was encouraged by that, cleaned it off and left it a few days.
Still dripping.
Now, whilst the area around the hatch was sweaty, as was the actual hatch, so I surmised that whilst there was a still a leak I didn't think it was the cover.
The only other thing there was to investigate was the crank pulley underneath the timing chain hatch and it's seal.
I left this until last as this was a bigger job that if I was going to get into it, I'd really get into it.
Cleaned it all off, ran the car for a few days, had a look - sweaty.
I ordered a new crank seal and two bearings for the pulleys as they were likely very tired and were making a bit of a noise, so while I was in there did that as well.
Got the pulley off, changed the seal, switched the bearings in the pulleys and got it all back together.
Ran the car for a few days - all good so far.
What I think has happened is that the crank seal failed, looked fine when I took it out to be fair, albeit a bit soft (***for some reason I have no pics of the seals). The leak would then seep onto the crank pulley, then get flung onto the block, the subframe, the driveshaft, all over the gaff.
So fingers crossed I've nipped that and we'll be all tight and secure again.
We will see.
Suits
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Got stung on the MOT this month.
MOT runs until 18th December but I didn't like the fact it was so close to the holidays - leaves very little wriggle room.
Took it to Kwik-Fit next to work.
Needed new ball joints and drop links, so failed.
However, much to my frustration, the tester had recorded the fail as a Major defect - so the car was immediately non road worthy. Brilliant.
Also, all parts as you can imagine were about four times the price of parts from Jap Serivce Parts. Plus, I don't fancy getting under the car in this weather and I don't have a press or tools in case anything is stuck - which will certainly be the case.
I was kind of stuck.
At least they're all done now.
Never going to Kwik-Fit again.
MOT runs until 18th December but I didn't like the fact it was so close to the holidays - leaves very little wriggle room.
Took it to Kwik-Fit next to work.
Needed new ball joints and drop links, so failed.
However, much to my frustration, the tester had recorded the fail as a Major defect - so the car was immediately non road worthy. Brilliant.
Also, all parts as you can imagine were about four times the price of parts from Jap Serivce Parts. Plus, I don't fancy getting under the car in this weather and I don't have a press or tools in case anything is stuck - which will certainly be the case.
I was kind of stuck.
At least they're all done now.
Never going to Kwik-Fit again.
Last edited:
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Scheming turdsacks.
Oh, and hello by the way!
Oh, and hello by the way!
Suits
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That's the plan mate.
It's much less of an ask to get under a car in the daylight and warmth of the other half of the year, lol.
That said, if you look up my car on the MOT checker it states that the MOT runs until 18th December 2024 - which was the original expiry date before this last MOT. WTFLOL
Suits
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Hello mate, I still fondly remember your Jay's Racing EP3 getting banned at the Ring !!!
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You have a 30 day (IIRC) window before the MOT which will extend it by the original expiry date.
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You can submit a report into VOSA complaining about the standard of the MoT. The local Kwik-Fit lost their testing licence for several months for just this sort of c*ntery.
Report an MOT tester
Find out if you can report an MOT tester or centre for fraud, how to report them (including without giving your name), and what will happen next.
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“The loudest machine on the fucking planet…!”Hello mate, I still fondly remember your Jay's Racing EP3 getting banned at the Ring !!!