• Registered users are encouraged to enable MFA/2FA to add an aditional layer of security to their account. More information can be found here: https://www.ncsc.gov.uk/collection/top-tips-for-staying-secure-online/activate-2-step-verification-on-your-email

Valuing a Modified Car?

Messages
578
Ive been thinking about how much i could sell my ATR for when the time comes, and to be honest i think it will be in a couple of months.

I know if you look for a well setup ATR with suspension / breathing / etc good mods your looking at £4000 - £4500.

I know theres no way i can get my money back, ive wrote of at least £5000 in my head. I know when i sold my ITR's they were mildly modded, Suspension, Brakes, Breathing, ECU, Wheels, Audio and i never lost more than £1000 on them, and other cars. But on this project i know the hit is going to be big.

Anyone ever sold there heavily modified Type R's? You see EP3's running 400hp @ engine selling from around £7500 to £8500, but the EP3 is probably more desirable and newer than the ATR even if only by 2 years.

Im pretty sure it will be the quickest FWD Honda's for sale in the UK at the time of sale, but still i cant see anyone who is alittle short of crazy or going through a mid life crisis buying it? Maybe split it more chance of selling a Darton Sleeved H22A, i doubt there are anyone of them for sale in the UK fully built?

Anyone have any thoughts, how much do you think i could possibly ask for this?

1999 Honda Accord Type R (Pirates Black) 100,000 Miles when i bought it, last year to start this project, below everything is new. Body work will also have full detail along with engnie bay interior etc.

BB4 JDM Closed Deck Block
Wiesco Forged Pistons with Anti Friction Coated Skirts Including Rings & Pins
Eagle steel H BEAM Connecting Rods
ARP Engine Bolt Set for Engine Head, Rods, Crank Everything
Darton 88mm Iron Sleeves
OEM Honda Accord Type R Main Bearings
OEM Honda Accord Type R Rod Bearings
OEM Honda Accord Type R Thrust Washers
H22 Crank. Journels MicroPolished, Counter Weights Lead Filled
OEM Honda Accord Type R Oil Pump
OEM Honda Accord Type R Water Pump
Block Bored and Sleeved - Heat Tested
Hot Tank Cleaning Of All Parts
Modified Crank Brace
Re Boring of Cylinder Sleeves 90mm
Power Hone of Bores
Deck Block Surface
ARP Studs
Prelude Type S JDM Cylinder Head
Comitec 1.4mm thick head gasket
Brian Crower Duel Valve Springs
Brian Crower Bronze Intake Exhaust Valve Guides
Brian Crower Titanium Retainers
Brian Crower 0.25mm Over Size Valves
Heavy Duty Steel Collets
Gates High Power Timing Belt
Skunk2 Pro Series Cam Gears In Titanium
Racing Valve Stem Seals
Head Ported and Flowed
Chambers Balanced 100% Balance across chambers
Multi Angle Valve Job
Mirror Edge
ARP Drag Series Bolts
AEM EMS Full Standalone ECU
AEM Tru Boost Controller / Gauge
Swoosh Oil Pressure / Temp Gauge
Hondata 3 Bar Map Sensor
1000cc Bosch Injector Dynamics
Walbro 225 Intake Fuel Pump
370 Line Fuel Pump External
Clutchmasters FX700 Multi Plate Clutch Kit Custom Copper Plates
Clutchmasters Lighened Forged Flywheel
30 Row Fluidyne Oil Cooler Core
Oil Filter Relocation Kit
EVO 9 Uprated InterCooler
3 Row Half Size Radiator
Holset HX35/HX40 Turbo Charger Anti Surge Housing
Custom Intercooler Pipe
50mm Tial Style BOV
38mm Deltagate External Waste Gate
38mm Internal Wastegate
Custom Plate for Turbo
Cast Steel Manifold
BlueFlame Full Custom 3" Down Pipe
BlueFlame Full Custom 3" Single Exit Exhaust
BC BR Range Coilovers
Custom 12kg Front Springs
Custom 7kg Rear Springs
AutoTech Geo Ride Height Setup
Tein Front Upper Adjustable Brace
Tein Rear Upper Brace
UltraRacing Front Fender Braces
UltraRacing Rear 19mm ARB
XYZ Racing Front 6 Pot Racing Calipers
XYZ Racing 330mm Front Slotted Discs & Ali Bells
Ferrodo DS2500 Front
XYZ Braided Lines
RBF600 fluid
17" Rota Grids Bronze
Yokohama Prada Spec 2


Yes i know ive not got it back yet but it ive been insured it will run around 520whp @ 1.5bar maybe more, Engine and Turbo capable of beyond 900hp. Should have it back end of August all done. But i can see my self using it for a few months and then selling it. (This is normal for me lol)

Is it one of those off .......... open to offer's add's?

Cheers
Jay
 
Thing is with any modified car beyond just basic mods - it's worth exactly what someone is happy to pay for it and not one penny more.

You could value it at whatever you want, but you are reliant on who is looking for that at the time and what they are prepared to pay. Very difficult to put a price on it.

It's one of those cars you could sell in a day or take a year to depending on who is buying at the time.

Best off whoring all kinds of performance car forums and showing what it is and what it does, then once you get a good following and people get seduced on the power and figures put it up for sale. You never know, you may just get someone with a loan burning a hole in their pocket and hell bent on performance with a difference.

Worst possible scenario is having a hugely modified car and needing to sell it quickly. If you aren't bothered about how long it'll take you you'll be a lot better position to just wait for the right buyer to arrive.
 
The only experinace I have with selling modded cars was my old EP3.

It wsnt heavily modded but it was almost as far as you could take a EP3 without boosting it.

Anyway, it was up for sale as it was for £9000. Not a lot, a few timewasters and thats it.

I stripped the car, made £2000 on the mods, then put the car up for £8000, it sold rather quick.

Its a common phrase on here, 'Put it back to OEM and sell the mods' .

This may not be a option for you, so this won't be anything you dont already know :lol: .
 
put it back to standard as much as is possible. for one way mods, or those require excessive labour costs to put back to standard forget about them. sell the car at the RRP for a normal car. you'll make a few grand on mods.
 
Cheers Rod, your bang on id say. Im in no rush, its paid for and i drive it until it sells. I thought id probably get interesting P/X's with performance cars which might be easier to sell. Jap Performance magazine are doing a big feature on it once its done and i was thinking really this is the biggest for sale add i could have?

Suits, ive worked this out, splitting it and putting parts up for a reasonable price, this would mean completely braking the car. All parts are new so when i come to sell it/them they will have been used for what 3 months?

I know selling around XMAS time is a pain so i might be reduced to storing it over the Winter?
 
nice one for thinking ahead enough to take into account trying to sell nov/dec/jan is tough. you could literally break the car entirely but i wouldn't suggest that. no idea on accord valuations but a 1999 black accord with 100k and some mods left has to be over 3000. take off as much as possible. perhaps investigate buying a crash damaged one and pilfering the parts from that (you could flog the good parts you don't need from the crashed one for more profit). might be a silly idea as you haven't got the space to do so.

either way good luck.
 
put it back to standard as much as is possible. for one way mods, or those require excessive labour costs to put back to standard forget about them. sell the car at the RRP for a normal car. you'll make a few grand on mods.

If i end up splitting it, i will break the car completely, as that engine is worth a **** load so that would go, and id just sell everything else. Would be a pain in the arse though!
 
in which case, if you believe the engine is worth around 2 grand then it has to be worth buying a written off accord from a rear ender and doing an engine swap. put the original engine, ancilleries, clutch, driveshafts into your modded one and sell as near as possible to standard.
 
nice one for thinking ahead enough to take into account trying to sell nov/dec/jan is tough. you could literally break the car entirely but i wouldn't suggest that. no idea on accord valuations but a 1999 black accord with 100k and some mods left has to be over 3000. take off as much as possible. perhaps investigate buying a crash damaged one and pilfering the parts from that (you could flog the good parts you don't need from the crashed one for more profit). might be a silly idea as you haven't got the space to do so.

either way good luck.

Yeah my cousin has been offered £3500 for his mild ATR, its easier someone giving you £3500 than £10000 lol. Got plenty of space at home, hence done mind the stripping, but really didnt want to be swapping over parts, but again it is a good suggestion and i see where your coming from. Yeah i always account for that time of year being a good time to buy, crap time to sell.

I guess i will see how she goes. To be honest you cant find a fully built sleeved H22 in the UK for sale alone, let alone anyone to do it, most people buy sleeved blocks from the US.

The engine parts just for block + head would cost £3000 from the US, + building, block work, sleeving, head work, assembling etc, from a tuning company this head / block work combination would easily cost £5000.

Then the rest of the parts, A good gearbox on these is worth a £500 + the clutch FX700 cost £1000, ECU + Gauges £1300, ID 1000's £300+,Turbo £1000, Exhaust Setup £1000+, Brakes, Coilovers, Bracing, Wheels £2500 +

Thats just retail prices from the US most of the expensive parts, but not covering loads lol.

Now having the discussion with you guys is actually making me see clearer abit, if that makes sense?...............If its too much of a loss, i should really just keep it, its not worth loosing that much money to only get a small amount back? If that makes sense?

Cheers
Jay
 
i know its a lot of power and all that, but no one is gonna part with 8k for it. Usually the sort of person who wants a car like that will want to do it themselves anyway. Also 8k money is evo money all day long and as a complete car that will be a better proposition to own.

my message as it is with all modded cars is to strip it. ebay and classified areas are your friends.
 
just keep it for a year once its finished and reap the benifits of all the work and effort.
 
i know its a lot of power and all that, but no one is gonna part with 8k for it. Usually the sort of person who wants a car like that will want to do it themselves anyway. Also 8k money is evo money all day long and as a complete car that will be a better proposition to own.

my message as it is with all modded cars is to strip it. ebay and classified areas are your friends.

Good EVO 7 = £7500 - £8000 = 280hp GSR most tweeked to 330hp / If you were to my ATR against one in any form / track / 1/4 the ATR would be make the EVO eat its own ass. But the EVO would be more so an everyday car, althought the ATR will be a mild low comp 2.3ltr n/a below VTEC, just the clutch is an PITA though.

The best way to sell mine i think is to take it to VMAX, or line up against my mates GTR, hand his ass to him then advertise my car as "GTR Killer" for 10k lmao.
 
just keep it for a year once its finished and reap the benifits of all the work and effort.

Just been chatting to my Dad, who said the same thing. He said "you worked your ass of now you want something else"

I'll get it back, see how its...i'll either go 2 ways, use it for couple of months then sell, or take it of the road and go hardcore and continue to play around with it.

I think its cause the build has been going on nearly 1 year, so im getting fed up maybe....thinking i could just go an buy a 996TT and have 500hp after a remap!
 
go onto the evo forum and whore it on there. then do some decent 1/4 mile runs, then stick it up for sale on there with the evidence and hope for a part-ex offer? :D
 
Back
Top