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What to do with I/H/E do when it comes to MOT?

Chr15

Chr15

Messages
229
Hi guys,

I have a NHB EP3 which is standard other than an AEM V2 which has been on the car since I bought it. Gives a nice sound but I'd say it does naff-all for the 0-60 time. I'd like to run a 'proper' exhaust system with I/H/E and a decat, but obviously this causes issues for the MOT.

I ran a decat on my EJ9 a few years back and was amazed how freely the engine would rev. Only difference is that I had to replace the Cat each year for the MOT. The EP3 is much lower to the floor, so my small ramps are no longer an option. What do you guys use? Just a trolley jack and axle stands?

I'm just thinking its gonna be a PITA to get under there each year and replace the Cat just to pass the MOT, only to get the car home and fit the decat again. Is this what you guys have to do?

Most EP3 exhaust manifolds seem to be 1-pc and replace the cat aswell (i.e. BuddyClub, etc), so does this mean you have to replace the stock mani/Cat each year? It looks like a fiddly job as it is, I don't think removing/refitting it each year is something I can be doing with...

Maybe a 2-pc mani would be better for me?? I'm starting to consider a hi-flow cat coupled to a decent mani. Are the power gains still worth the money though over a full decat setup though?

cheers,

Chris
 
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There is a dc5 cat for sale in the classifieds, that is a 4-2 and 2-1 section allowing easy swaps come mot time. A decent cat back, filter and kpro gives very good gains leaving the cat in place though.
 
sugarpuff said:
£10-20 on the passenger seat normally does the trick....
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I'd like to know where these places are...some mates have said the same but I doubt many places will turn a blind eye nowadays would they? I was told some will use another car for the emissions test to get around it as they need the print-out to confirm a pass. I need to find a slightly dodgy MOT centre who I also trust enough with my car...

I don't think I'll ever go K-pro, its too expensive IMO. Maybe I'll get a K100 one day or maybe Unichip, but I'd prefer to get a fastroad setup, new/recon wheels and replace the catback first as I think these will really improve the car. Needs new discs/pads on the rear too very soon so pennies will be tight. Granted the Unichips arent as good as KPro but they are going for very little monies now 2nd hand and do give an improvement over stock.
 
Chr15 said:
I'd like to know where these places are...some mates have said the same but I doubt many places will turn a blind eye nowadays would they? I was told some will use another car for the emissions test to get around it as they need the print-out to confirm a pass. I need to find a slightly dodgy MOT centre who I also trust enough with my car...

I don't think I'll ever go K-pro, its too expensive IMO. Maybe I'll get a K100 one day or maybe Unichip, but I'd prefer to get a fastroad setup, new/recon wheels and replace the catback first as I think these will really improve the car. Needs new discs/pads on the rear too very soon so pennies will be tight. Granted the Unichips arent as good as KPro but they are going for very little monies now 2nd hand and do give an improvement over stock.
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There is no point decatting unless you have a remap. Problem solved, dont decat lol
 
K-Pro is probably the best mod you can make to a CTR. It makes the thing so much more driveable if you've got a load more torque coming in at 4500-5000rpm rather than having to wait until 6000rpm. If you're worried about MOT's and so on then a decent air filter (gruppeM or AEM CAI) + KPro + a decent cat back (Spoon, Fujitsubo, Toda) and you'll have a car that sounds great when you press on, is completely legal and far quicker than a stock CTR in the mid range. Additionally the resale value of K-Pro is far higher than that of K100, which is another reason to go down that route.
 
CTR_Paul said:
K-Pro is probably the best mod you can make to a CTR. It makes the thing so much more driveable if you've got a load more torque coming in at 4500-5000rpm rather than having to wait until 6000rpm. If you're worried about MOT's and so on then a decent air filter (gruppeM or AEM CAI) + KPro + a decent cat back (Spoon, Fujitsubo, Toda) and you'll have a car that sounds great when you press on, is completely legal and far quicker than a stock CTR in the mid range. Additionally the resale value of K-Pro is far higher than that of K100, which is another reason to go down that route.
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out of interest how much is Kpro? sorry to hijack
 
A Kpro is a replacement ECU. You can upload custom maps to it or let someone professional do it for you on a dyno to get the best out of your car.

All the information you need to know is on the site. Use the search button.
 
Jermal said:
A Kpro is a replacement ECU. You can upload custom maps to it or let someone professional do it for you on a dyno to get the best out of your car.
Click to expand...

Not quite chap, it's the same ECU, but just with the Hondata KPRO PCB plugged into it. :)
 
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