Search results

300bhp 2000cc, do-able but factor in £20k minimum spend for long block/drivetrain/intake/exhaust/electrics/ancils/fuel. Longblock alone is around £12k+, same goes for Duratec etc. Never in a month of Sundays would you run that on the road. Increase bore to give somewhere around 2200cc, still...

Just as well setting fire to your handful of £20 notes. Never even heard of them never mind good rep.

Reverse gear shaft bolt? 14 & 18 http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17S5S01&block_02=M__1400&block_03=9422 Get a copy of the service manual and it'll tell you. :)

Reverie. Airbox for ITB's and duct on bumper.

It's what i'm using on 100mm carbon snorkels. ;) fits fine...

Micropore from Reverie. It'll also help reduce intake temp.

Stick with oem. You'll get a better upgrade by replacing the brake fluid if it's not been done in a while. If you're not putting much heat into the brakes then oem are fine. As for bite, pretty sure they have enough to put the ABS on.

I'd go for something with higher CA rating, 400+.

Yeah, i've got the same but not run it yet. I know another user that ran it without issue on a fully equipped road car. I'd maybe go for a red top 30 if you're having issues. I'm assuming the cable you've used is a suitable gauge for the length of the run?

Checked mine, same as OEM. No issues. Were ordered through ebay seller "brakesint"

Bigger Odyssey, Varley Red Top, stock battery. Both Odyssey and Varley supply data on their batteries, i.e, CA/CCA etc. Red Top 30 is 450A, stock is something like 420A. (CCA).

Might be worth giving Ben a shout over on CTRO, think he's run this kit for quite a while now. http://civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=185815

DS2500's are exactly the same compound AP supply with their BBK's…..can't be that bad if they use them.

Tegiwa.

Good post! Just rebuilt mine but not fitted them to the car yet, i'll notch them before they go on.

http://civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=258439

Small mole grips on the pipe sorts that out. Use some blue towel / cloth between the jaws and the pipe so you don't damage it.

Pick up the phone and give the boys at TDI a shout! They'll be able to advise you better than anyone on the forums. ;)

Yeah, right enough Harvey, had it in my head it was MG for OEM. It is OEM.

Think you'd need to ask TDI-N about that. I'm guessing they're UK made so wouldn't have any doubts as to the quality of the steel used for them and pretty sure the guys would't put sub standard material on the market!

http://www.rallycarsforsale.net/clas/index.php?ct=fsrp&md=details&id=80038 Probably are facelift looking at them now.

JAS do brake ducting. Usually some for sale on rallyparts.

Already on the market….

They need a bit of work to fit them. Weekend job with some decent grit sanding paper. I've got an MG (oem) Seibon available (brand new) if anyone wants it.

Get a rack riser or inverted tie rods ends for that drop. ;)

There is no better for the weight, the quality of the exedy is second to none. I've got both flywheel and stage 1 clutch brand new for sale so i can save you a few quid on buying new, and i'm just along the road in Kingswells. (putting in a twin instead)

If the CAT isn't replaced then yes...;)

If you're doing sprints consider Kumho V70's. SS's will be fine if you don't use them on the road.

Not much point fitting most "stage 3" cams on a stock bottom end as you won't have the CR to run them. (or the p2v clearance)

Yep, Si is the same as EP3. They never got the Type R over there and iirc the EP3 is referred to as an EP2 over there.

FYI, Skunk2 Ultra street version will be out soon….

Ring spanner, flathead screwdriver & feelers. Can't remember nut size off the top of my head but probably around 6/8mm. All the info's in the service manual.

Ah, i see. Yeah, some clubs add their own rules on top of MSA regs for the local stuff. I'd query the decat though as it's required in MSA reg's, local scrutineer should be able to clarify, they do check them most of the time. CAT's aren't required pre-1992 for production cars...

Out of curiosity what reg's do you need to comply with? Seems odd that you can't change the intake but can run decat. Should be able to make your own cold air feed with some ducting onto the stock air box. Just feed it from the front or wing. IMO it's not going to make much of a difference...

Might have spare, i'll check later on today.

It's been off the road for the past few months for a wee bit of tinkering. Next time out should be Fintray hillclimb. Yeah, loads of them going about town now! Never down the beach, not really into the cruise scene and would rather sink a few pints at the weekend! Think there might be a RR down...

Yeah, familiar with most. Had mine in on the AEM EMS2 a while back for a base map to get the car running. Can't fault them apart from the ridiculous waiting list to get in!

Aberdeen - Wallace Performance

V.Nice. Well worth going to see.

Just fitted one of these spacers a couple of days ago so i can run about this week whilst waiting on a new ECU without the the engine nearly stalling at junctions. There's not a chance in hell i'd run about with one on a regular basis! And i'm certainly not driving it in anger till the ECU's...

:lol: Wonder if that ecu's spare now....:)

So how's it going??

Post some pics once there done Ben. Going to get a set of mine powder coated and wouldn't mind seeing the finish/colour before i do mine!

Got the ES mounts & box mount fitted as well. Minimal vibration. Only notice it on idle really. Think i'll be changing to Avid's etc at some point. (comp. car). Big recommendation for the ES ones for daily drivers though!

I'll be doing it all myself soon (waiting on parts from Japan) and post a how to once done if there's not one up already. It is relatively straight forward, just time consuming. An engine hoist would be helpful and a transmission jack a bonus. Once the box is off it's all easy going but you'll...

Is Aaron's modded Palmer 3 still floating about? Looking for a decent map for GM/FEEL's RH/FEEL's Exh. to tootle about in before i can get down to TDI. (or even GM/Toda would do).

If you get a K-Pro you can run one of the maps that is provided with it. No need for going on a dyno. And you're pretty much guaranteed to get your money back on the forums if you buy is s/h.

Vernier pulleys....sound buy or waste of money?

Mine's a 01 and got picked up in the last mot for having a worn rear link so i'm going to have to replace one set anyway. Just hope the fronts come off no bother. Can't believe how expensive they are. A set of uprated whiteline links for my subaru cost the same!!! Soon find out today as i'm...

Need to find that out myself... Some info on diffs: http://www.civinfo.com/forum/engines-and-transmission/34309-differential-review-oem-jdm-quaife-os-giken.html http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63789

If i'm not allowed to post this link let me know! This will explain shimming with regards to the EP3. http://civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=198411&hilit=lsd+shimming

Bloody hell, just phoned the dealer for oem drop links for the rear arb. £40+VAT each!! Anyone know where you can get them cheaper??

Fitted my HIDs4u (6k) yesterday. What a difference! Just shows how crap the std lights are. I mounted the relays in the wings as it was the best flat surface i could find close to the lights. Anyone know if the side repeater bulb needs to flash orange like the main indicators?

I'd be looking to get it for less than 400 EUR. Diff will need to be shimmed when fitted. If you're quite mechanically minded then its not too much of a big job to do. For peace of mind get a reputable garage to do it. They'll have it (and clutch if needed) fitted in less than a day. iirc both...

double check that Halfords No. Think it might be 57. I'll check this morning as the old man with good intentions went and got another Halfrauds battery as a favour so its fitted now. Fingers crossed it lasts longer than the last one.

PM Brencivic. He's already done some.

75w90 Motul Gear FF Type II would be my recommendation.

The JDM oem diff is quite good and comparable to the Quaife. I personally wouldn't get a wavetrac because for a front wheel drive car you don't really want it locking under braking as it will unsettle the cars handling when pushed hard.

Ebay is always good for them. Managed to get a front JDM ARB for £20!! Suppose there's less demand for the fronts though. Only needed one for my Toda manifold.

If its hunting then its more than likely the idle control valve. Should be more prominent in the cold weather as well.

Well if we can organise a small group buy on these i'll take a pair as well just as a precaution for fitting a RM01A to my pre-facelift.

Well i think i've found out my problem. I had the trim off the tailgate yesterday because the rear window wasn't heating up after having oem tinted windows fitted. When i took off the centre section of trim it was full of water. There's wire running through the top of the tailgate which have...

Bren has done and does these.....

Good good, that'll be todays job then.:)

Went and got myself some DC5 cams cheap. Anyone know if the valves clearances will be different than the stock cams or is it just a straight swap?

Well my Halfords battery has lasted less than 2 years so not impressed at all.

Have one of Lee's earth kits and a BC condenser. No more problems with lights dimming when using the windows etc.

Hi, Been thinking i need a new battery for a while and funnily enough its dead. Tried doing a search on here and the other forum for info as i'm sure i saw a thread before but can't find it. Can anyone recommend me a quality battery? Ta.

Bought a set recently and i can confirm they come with the rubber. Big thumbs up for Matt and the guys, excellent service from ABP and highly recommended.

Yeah, just give them a ring.

I was talking about serious use. Not 'spirited' driving. Vented discs are ample and the std wheels also give good cooling. The only benefit you'll get from crossdrilled discs is aesthetics if you're that way inclined. They won't improve your braking, they won't last as long and they cost more...

Drilled discs are a complete waste of money on road going cars. Drilling is to aid cooling when they are used hard. By this i mean serious circuit racing/tarmac rallying. If you need that amount of cooling for your discs you should be thinking about proper ducting etc. Back in the old days...

Sports cat is serious coin. Cat back might take you an hour to replace. Is that one of Bren's rocker covers? Looks like a job well done.

Just to make clear to anyone else reading this that the mentioned person above had his car mapped by other than H.R and that company has offered to take the car back in and diagnose/rectify any mapping issues without charge. There's also nothing wrong with the map that is obvious. We'll see if...

Dyno and road. It all depends on the experience and skill of the mapper. Live data logging gives you all the info you need. The only part i really disagree with is "Of course you could go to the guy listed in this thread, but when it goes wrong or you don't get the desired results will it be...

Yes, TDI/CPL etc have a massive amount of experience with mapping the K-Pro and i'm sure they all do a very good job but H.R is getting very good reports and is closer to home.

Might be worth starting a 'members cars' thread tweats.....

700 - 800 mile round trip plus an overnight stay......About time there was someone else more than capable mapping K-Pro outside Englandshire!;)

Well that might be 3 of us then! Should have my clutch bedded in by the time i get there!

Blimey, 416.4bhp / 290.2lbs/ft. All through the front wheels. Not much of a daily driver then!

Added bonus with the K-Pro is they all go for similar money second hand and if you pick one up there's not much chance of loosing out on any money if you decide to go back to standard. There's only so many mods you can do to the civic without spending serious money and most of them are from...

Got an alpine fitted to mine. Binned the alpine cage iirc. I'll get pics up later on today bud.:)

Pretty sure that it needs adjusted till its at the right length. Also transmits a good bit of noise into the cabin. Just search the forums and you'l find out more on it.

Fairly easy if you've got a jack. Using them instead of an ETD means the jobs done proper from the start and no constant adjusting needed till its right.

Yeah, from what i gather it shouldn't be too much of a pain in the arse with normal driving. It's a little more than the alternatives but should be smoother than a paddle, handle more output than it will ever see and last a lot longer as well. Money well spent i reckon. One thing i've learned...

Yeah, me too. Should be spot on from what i've heard/read. Just wonder how the Exedy hyper carbon that i ordered with it will be on the road!

http://civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=124&t=195461&hilit=avid+engine+mounts

http://www.osgiken.net/ Really known for clutches. Especially in the scooby/evo world. Pretty much the mutts nuts for twin plates. The super lock LSD is getting rave reviews over in the states bettering the Quaife/Wavetrac. Probably not so well know over here in the civic world...

OS Giken???!!

For the money i'd go for avid racing engine/box mounts instead.

Just an update, i've got an OS Giken diff on the way which will be fitted once it arrives from the east. I'll report on it once fitted.:)

Any recommendations for a JRSC?

Fujitsubo RM-01a

Yeah, might take a little longer but theres no need to measure any of the holes, the seat doesn't need drilled and you can retain the original seat mounting points. Also pushes the seat forward by about 2 inches which means less cranking the seatback forward to get the shopping in. At the end of...

Good to hear. Thats a good bit of cash i can put into the valvetrain then!

Fitted mine at the weekend. Couple of points. 1. M10 bolts need to be 1.25 pitch 2. 60mm will be too long to get the seat level. 45-50mm is fine. 3. Only the inner rear rail to floorpan bolt hole needs enlarged. This is the hole closest to the centre console on both seats. This needs filed back...

Hi, Is it possible to do this with the car jacked up on axle stands? Just checking to see if there's enough room underneath to take the oem off and fit a toda or if it needs to go on a ramp...... Ta.

Hi, Is there much difference in fuel rails between the manufacturers? i.e, AEM, Skunk, Mugen.....? Ta.

Ha, thats what i use but with glass cleaner.....

Bit of a bold statement that one! How about soap/water/glass cleaner etc etc?