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EP3 Problems, VTEC Juddering And Bogging Down, Broken CD and Wheel Vibrations :(

just an idea but could the plugs of been gone, and caused the cat to block, that would explain misfire code and the cat code ?
 
Bit of info required please

Does this look like a standard cat? and can anyione hazard a guess on what the hell is going on with the lambda sensors and all the wires/block connectors round them!

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Just ordered a Cat and a pre cat Lambda sensor

Also just a point to add, car will hit vtec on short journeys (after engine warm up) but when it gets properly up to temp on a decent journey it wont vtec.
 
looks standard, but the wires on the sensor have been cut and rejoined ? may be your problem ?
 
Im wondering if its a universal lambda, could be flaggin up the code but wont be the cause of the bogging down *** as its the first lambda that controls the important fuel/air data. Couldnt see that one when i had my head under the car
 
This may be a wild theory but I had a Tdi golf a few years back that would run fine until the engine got warm and then the turbo wouldn't create the boost it was supposed to. The problem turned out to be the MAF. From a quick search the K20 does have a Mass air flow sensor, could it be something to do with that?
 
Thought had crossed my mind, but surely it would throw a code.Had a nackered MAF in my first yaris caused a massive flat spot low down in the revs! was a nightmare.

Looking at the last MOT in december the car seems to have flown through it emmisions test, could the CAT be clogged but still pass emissions test?
 
Vtec works on 5 things being right!! Oil pressure, engine temp, vehicle speed, engine speed, throttle position. If anyone of these is not right it wont vtec. Now you can rule out a few off these things straight away vehicle speed and engine speed because the car does engage vtec but only when its just warmed up not when its hot nothing to do with either of these two things. Which leaves throttle position which you have already looked at the throttle butterfly and play in the pedal {cable} and ruled that out. Which then leaves oil pressure and engine temp! Now you said engine temp did affect vtec engaging! the question is is the car running very hot when driving normally after 20 minutes or so???? if so you need to look at why its running hot or cold. The ecu wont allow vtec if engine temp isnt right. If engine temps ok then that leaves oil pressure which i touched on in an earlier reply if your oil pressure is low the ecu wont allow vtec and also you wont have the pressure to engage your high speed cam. Is your oil warning light working??? Im sure your lamba or cat could possibly be knackered and i know it reads fuel air mixture in your burnt gases but the ecu will adjust your engine to suit. And because you get vtec sometimes that tells me its very unlikley to be either of them at fault. Just a thought have you let the car idle and the cooling fan cut in cause if the stat is stuck shut the car will warm up like normal but when the engine temp rises and the stat would normally open to allow the coolant to flow to the rad if its stuck shut the car maybe running really really hot which the ecu would read and not let you engage vtec.
 
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Oil pressure-I've kept the car topped up with oil, pressure could possibly be a problem just strange my problems intermitant and seems to be when the cars fully up to temperature

engine temp-engine temp never goes above 2 lines below the middle, gets up to here after say 10 minuites then stays no matter how much traffic/how hard you drive

vehicle speed-not an issue

engine speed-kicks in at 5800 still

throttle position - adjusting my foot on the throttle when it bogs down doesn't help at all

Seems strange that I can hit VTEC when the cars not fully warmed up but when a full warm up is complete it then won't. Feels like a fast car till 5800 then you can feel the drop in power!

After a week the only 2 codes i have are p420 current and pending

No oil pressure warning light or anything else to go off
 
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Sometimes them code readers just read out. I would start off with mechanics now instead of relying on the reader. Get the cat and them dodgy sensors sorted and go from there. A fella with an BMW x5 at work took it to BMW to get it on the code reader as it would missfire then stop. It Read camshaft pulse generator and ended up being a blocked fuel filter from filling up out the old metal White diesel tank. Not saying this could have anything to do with your car just saying sometimes mechanics is better than the code reader.
 
Update 28/03/2011

New CAT and Lambda's here will be getting it fitted ASAP

Yes mate i agree, just going on what i have at the moment, but if this doesnt sort it think im just going to have to bite the bullet and take it to a garage. Cleaned the induction kit and the MAP sensor yesterday to eliminate this from contributing towards the problem.

Got myself two more new faults now :( Filled her up to the brim today got home and went back out an hour later to find this :(

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And to make it even worse im now getting a loud squeeking from the steering when moving it from central (forward) but seems to be worse when the clutch is engaged. Any ideas peeps?

So ive got to fix

-Performance issues
-Engine light on
-SRS light on
-2 Fault codes
-leaking fuel tank/lines
-squeeking steering
-Wheel vibration at 60+
-4 Wheel Allignment

Wondering if its honestly worth spending that kind of money on it! Going to be a fortune
 
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You are having sod all luck mate :(

For the fuel leak, I'd check the connections of the fuel lines as it would be unlikely to be a rupture in the tank or anything as drastic as that.
 
looks like top off fuel sender in tank needs tighting or new seal ? lift up back seat and take out the cover to check ?
 
Well someones on the ball!

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Petrol all over the place round the cap. Was slightly lose so took it off checked it and refastened it. Not sure if it is sorted but only time will tell. Really glad its not the tank itself! Was rather hard to sort it as the tank was soooooo full only done a mile since filling it and parking it so im covered in petrol! Wouldnt like to have an encounter with a match in the next few hours! haha

Anyone have any ideas with the squeeky steering? Ball joints? Sounds like metal on rubber not a metallic noise


Also would a leak in the top of the tank stop it from pressuring and cause the drop in power high in the revs like ive been getting?
Cheers Alex
 
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not sure on the squeeky steering ? but some times i do get the odd noise, from front springs and top mounts
 
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