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EP3 Problems, VTEC Juddering And Bogging Down, Broken CD and Wheel Vibrations :(

UPDATE

Ive taken the dash apart today to check it out and where the EML is was stuffed with toilet paper so taken it out and i can see the light now. Off to amsterdam tomorrow so wont be getting any work done on the car till monday but the plan on monday is to change coil pack 1 and 4 to see if the fault moves with it.

bang some injector cleaner through the engine and report back on whats happening
 
Just been having a read about and i stumbled upon this thread

http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/s...-wrong/page4&highlight=cleaning+vtec+solenoid

Page 4 is the soloution but ive read it all my sypmtoms are pretty much the same bar the engine management light (Which it doesnt mention) specially the problem being worse under full throttle and letting VTEC engage but slow revving

Turned out to be the valve clearances, I have no idea when these clearances were done last as theres no record of it in the service history.

After looking closer in to codes The P0301 code is misfire cylinder 1 OR random misfire so it might not be limited to one cylinder

Anyone agree with this or not as i dont have a clue how valve clearances effect the engine. I wouldnt say my engine sounds tappy or at least no tappier than other cars

Cheers again Alex
 
Shaenei said:
i thought P0300 was random misfire?
Click to expand...

P0300-Random misfire
P0301-Misfire cyclinder 1 or random misfire
P0302-Misfire cyclinder 2 or random misfire
P0303-Misfire cyclinder 3 or random misfire
P0304-Misfire cyclinder 4 or random misfire

So opens the scope up again!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Dont think it's a lamba sensor problem! Mine went on me and the car just went into limp mode to get me home but the symptoms were nothing like yours. As for valve clearance i dont think they could make as much a difference as your saying your car has. They do make a difference to the running and performance if they are out slightly certainly on intake but your symptoms sound fairly aggresive. Vtec does work via a solenoid but i was also led to believe its reliant on oil pressure also so maybe you could check that side of things out??? Solenoid maybe working but your lacking oil pressure to fire the connecting pin across which is used to swith to your high lift cams (vtec). Im sure someone will correct me if im wrong on that but thats just my general understanding of how it works. My guess would be Oil pressure? Injector? or Like i said earlier maybe Inlet manifold leak?
 
Quick update

-Coilpacks 1 and 4 swapped

-Injector flush put in to fuel

-Battery reset so EML is off, Ordered a code reader should be here tomorrow and will read the fault as soon as it comes back up
 
Yes Chris I have been driving it, Carefully and doing about 15/20miles a day.

As i said off Vtec it just drives normally, probably shouldnt have driven it but unfortunatly i have to get to work and back some how :(

Best case scenario is that it throws up a P0304 Fault as that mean the coil pack buggered

Would think it will throw another code over my journey to work and back then i can get it read
 
Right lads (and lasses) been to work and back in it 15 miles

EML has came on, Read the fault with my new fault code reader (Would recommend investing in one to anyone £20 off ebay and ive used it on 4 cars already works a treat!)

As is so often the case with this car theres another twist to the story


P0420 DTC Code - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)


there maybe faults to come as ive covered little mileage and ditn really get the opertunity to hit VTEC properly. Off out in the car at 7 so will let you know what else comes up in the mean time

But in the mean time does this code mean the O2 sensors are shagged or more likely the CAT is clogged/dead?

Cause surely a decat would cause this fault and wouldnt make the car rubbish in VTEC
 
Still no more codes about 40 miles in :s but will keep everyone posted over the coming days

If nothing else comes up id guess the plan of action will be to get hold of a CAT new/second hand or a Decat and get it fitted and do the O2 Sensors after or before????
 
what sort of code reader you got ? some dont show up all fault codes ? and theres a cat on CTRO for sale
 
that was a long read and some good work from team TRO :)

just stabbing in the dark but have you checked the adjustment in the throttle cable that operates the butterfly valve? i had a old motorbike with a carb and adjusted the cable to make it go faster but got the reverse effect as when at full throttle the valve was over turning and closing the port back up, causing it to bog down.

i've never properly looked at the valve but it may have a stop to stop this happening, jap's are clever like that :).

also have you checked for a blown head gasket? a split between the gasket can cause misfire and sometimes not noticeable until higher revs.
 
Cheers for your input griffin

Yeah everyone on here has been fantastic.

That could be an option as I'm not sure if it will have a safety mechanism to stop it going to far. It looks to be adjusted almost all the way if I remember correctly.

Headgasket would surely cause overheating problems? and wouldn't it be all the time rather than intermittent.
 
depends on how the head gasket has blown, or cracked head that worsens with heat expansion from engine temperature. the blows can be between cylinders so can have no affect on running temperature. it's more likely that it would be constant but its worth a pressure test :).
 
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