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I always do a full service when I get a new car. With this guide you will be able to do:
Engine Oil and Filter.
Transmission Oil.
Air Filter.
Spark Plugs<New>
You will need:
Jack stands [I used 2 for safety reasons, however you can use 4].
17mm Socket/Spanner.
10mm Socket.
16mm Spark Plug Socket <20mm diameter MAX>
Wrench/extension bits.
Phillips screwdriver.
Flat head screwdriver if you have an overtightened oil filter [like me].
Oil drain pan/container.
Oil gun - or a funnel & tube for gearbox fill.
Funnel for engine oil.
Hammer.
Pliers.
Copper Slip.
You choice of engine oil [5 litres or more]
Your choice of transmission fluid. [2 litres - only 1.7L used]
2 x washers for the gearbox drain and fill bolts.
1 x washer for the engine oil drain bolt.
Oil filter.
Air filter.
K20a compatible spark plugs.
Parts
This is my home made gearbox oil fill tool. Coy Carp tubing, and a funnel from B&Q's garden section.
OEM Honda Oil Filter & washers
OEM Honda Civic Type R Air Filter [surprisingly good quality for OEM].
Mobile 1 Fully Synth Oil [used if before on a couple of my track cars and has been great] Also had a free Mobile 1 umbrella
6L Oil drain container [really handy and easy for disposal].
Castrol SMX-S Transmission fluid 2L. I have read great reviews on Pistonheads about this stuff.
K20a Compatible Spark Plugs.
Brindley Honda Cannock also gave me this free [although not needed! lol]
Jacking and Prepping
1] Warm up the engine by giving it a quick run, or let it sit on idle for a while.
2] Loosen wheel nuts.
3] Jack up the car. I jacked the rear tyres onto bricks so that I wouldnt have to use 4 jack stands. I have 4 but I feel that it is not safe to work under. Make sure the handbrake is engaged. Then jack up the front and place your jack stands under each of the documented jack points.
4] Remove both front wheels.
5] Make sure the car is level.
Engine Oil Change
1] Remove the oil cap.
2] Get underneath the car place your drain container behind the sump and loosen the drain bolt. Note, the oil will shoot out so dont place container directly underneath at first. Allow this engine to drain for a long while.
3] Turn the steering wheel to full lock to the left.
4] Remove the Oil Filter. It is directly above the CV Joint on the drivers side. You should be able to remove it by hand however as in my case it may be very stubborn.
I had to do the old 'screwdriver' method of removing it because whoever fitted the filter did it too tight. It only has to be tightened by hand! Place flat head screwdriver on the filters 'lip' then tap with a hammer in an anti-clockwise direction. Then loosen by hand.
5] Oil will spill all over the CV Joint and subframe clean with a rag.
Do not use this tool to loosen the filter, it is useless on a Civic.
Old and new Oil Filter:
6] Rub some new engine oil over the rubber o-ring seal and some on the thread.
7] Fit new Oil Filter and hand tighten only!
8] Replace the drain bolt along with new washer.
9] Pour in around 4 litres of new engine oil and replace the oil cap.
________________
I then went onto the air filter and transmission fluid change
________________
10] Put wheels back on and lower car off the stands so it is flat on the ground and start car up. Let it idle for a minute to fill the Oil filter up. Check for leaks.
11] Check oil level and adjust accordingly.
Air Filter Change
1] Undo all screws with either a phillips screwdriver or socket.
2] Loosen clip with a phillips screwdriver.
3] Squeeze clip with a pliers.
4] Remove Airbox.
5] Replace Air filter.
6] Replace everything in the order you undid them.
Transmission Fluid Change
1] Turn steering wheel so that it is on full lock to the right, then walk over to the pass side wheel arch.
2] Using a wrench, extension bits, and a 17mm socket undo the fill bolt [Top bolt in the photo].
3] Place your Oil Drain Container underneath this section and undo and remove the drain bolt with your 3/8 wrench with no socket on. [Bottom bolt in above pic]. Drain all transmission fluid.
4] Once all had been drained replace the gearbox drain bolt along with a new washer.
5] Feed your gearbox fill pipe through the engine bay and slot it into the fill bolt hole.
6] Pour all 1.7L of your fresh transmission fluid through the funnel.
7] Replace the fill bolt along with a new washer.
8] Check for leaks.
__________________________________________
Whilst the car is up - do the mandatory checks of all bushes and linkages. Grease if necessary.
__________________________________________
I got told by a honda technician 'that you dont need to do your gearbox for ages yet - 72000 miles'!
Good job I did - look at the state of what came out at 40000 miles!
__________________________________________
Spark Plug Replacement <new>
1] Loosen and remove all four 10mm bolts and remove the coil pack cover.
2] Loosen and remove the two 10mm bolts on Coil Pack 1 and 3.
3] Pull the Coil Pack up slightly so that it is disconnected from the plug, then unclip the coil connector.
4] Remove the Coil Pack.
5] Carefully insert your 16mm spark plug socket/wrench [diameter no larger than 20mm], and remove your spark plug.
Old and new Spark Plug. This CTR has only done 40000 miles and is 3 years old. The plugs are not meant to be changed for another 30000 miles, however you can see they are not in a great condition.
6] Spread some Copperslip onto the thread of the new spark plug, be careful not to get it onto the tip.
7] Insert it into your spark plug socket/wrench [there should be a rubber housing that you slip it into].
8] Carefully insert your socket into the chamber and tighten it [making sure you do not cross thread]. Once you feel the plug tighten to the cylinder head give it another quarter turn - do not over tighten.
9] Replace the Coil Pack and reconnect the connectors.
10] Repeat the above for all 4 spark plugs.
11] Replace and tighten the 10mm bolts for Coil Packs 1 and 3.
12] Replace the Coil Pack Cover and tighten all four 10mm bolts.
13] Make sure everything has been connected and tightened then test the new plugs by starting the car and letting it idle. Make sure there are no misfires, etc.
14] All done!
As you can see after 40k they desparatley needed replacing:
Notes about Spark Plug Socket/Wrench
Make sure that the socket you use is deep enough for a spark plug and the diameter is no wider than 20mm otherwise you will not get it into the chamber.
Do not use this type of wrench because Honda put the plugs in very tight so it will snap just like I did:
I lost the only 16mm socket I had deep enough for the K20a sparks and there were no stores that stocked them locally. So I avoided ordering it online by using an old Halfords Spark Plug Wrench I had for the VX220. It didnt fit into the chamber at first but after a bit of filing on each of the edges it slid in a treat:
The CTR is now running very nice, the engine is purring with its nice amber oil, the gearbox is slinky smooth, and powered by some nice new sparks.
This all took just under a couple of hours and saved £££'s.
Let me know what you think. If you complete the work let me know if it was any good, or if you can suggest improvements.
Chris
Engine Oil and Filter.
Transmission Oil.
Air Filter.
Spark Plugs<New>
You will need:
Jack stands [I used 2 for safety reasons, however you can use 4].
17mm Socket/Spanner.
10mm Socket.
16mm Spark Plug Socket <20mm diameter MAX>
Wrench/extension bits.
Phillips screwdriver.
Flat head screwdriver if you have an overtightened oil filter [like me].
Oil drain pan/container.
Oil gun - or a funnel & tube for gearbox fill.
Funnel for engine oil.
Hammer.
Pliers.
Copper Slip.
You choice of engine oil [5 litres or more]
Your choice of transmission fluid. [2 litres - only 1.7L used]
2 x washers for the gearbox drain and fill bolts.
1 x washer for the engine oil drain bolt.
Oil filter.
Air filter.
K20a compatible spark plugs.
Parts
This is my home made gearbox oil fill tool. Coy Carp tubing, and a funnel from B&Q's garden section.
OEM Honda Oil Filter & washers
OEM Honda Civic Type R Air Filter [surprisingly good quality for OEM].
Mobile 1 Fully Synth Oil [used if before on a couple of my track cars and has been great] Also had a free Mobile 1 umbrella
6L Oil drain container [really handy and easy for disposal].
Castrol SMX-S Transmission fluid 2L. I have read great reviews on Pistonheads about this stuff.
K20a Compatible Spark Plugs.
Brindley Honda Cannock also gave me this free [although not needed! lol]
Jacking and Prepping
1] Warm up the engine by giving it a quick run, or let it sit on idle for a while.
2] Loosen wheel nuts.
3] Jack up the car. I jacked the rear tyres onto bricks so that I wouldnt have to use 4 jack stands. I have 4 but I feel that it is not safe to work under. Make sure the handbrake is engaged. Then jack up the front and place your jack stands under each of the documented jack points.
4] Remove both front wheels.
5] Make sure the car is level.
Engine Oil Change
1] Remove the oil cap.
2] Get underneath the car place your drain container behind the sump and loosen the drain bolt. Note, the oil will shoot out so dont place container directly underneath at first. Allow this engine to drain for a long while.
3] Turn the steering wheel to full lock to the left.
4] Remove the Oil Filter. It is directly above the CV Joint on the drivers side. You should be able to remove it by hand however as in my case it may be very stubborn.
I had to do the old 'screwdriver' method of removing it because whoever fitted the filter did it too tight. It only has to be tightened by hand! Place flat head screwdriver on the filters 'lip' then tap with a hammer in an anti-clockwise direction. Then loosen by hand.
5] Oil will spill all over the CV Joint and subframe clean with a rag.
Do not use this tool to loosen the filter, it is useless on a Civic.
Old and new Oil Filter:
6] Rub some new engine oil over the rubber o-ring seal and some on the thread.
7] Fit new Oil Filter and hand tighten only!
8] Replace the drain bolt along with new washer.
9] Pour in around 4 litres of new engine oil and replace the oil cap.
________________
I then went onto the air filter and transmission fluid change
________________
10] Put wheels back on and lower car off the stands so it is flat on the ground and start car up. Let it idle for a minute to fill the Oil filter up. Check for leaks.
11] Check oil level and adjust accordingly.
Air Filter Change
1] Undo all screws with either a phillips screwdriver or socket.
2] Loosen clip with a phillips screwdriver.
3] Squeeze clip with a pliers.
4] Remove Airbox.
5] Replace Air filter.
6] Replace everything in the order you undid them.
Transmission Fluid Change
1] Turn steering wheel so that it is on full lock to the right, then walk over to the pass side wheel arch.
2] Using a wrench, extension bits, and a 17mm socket undo the fill bolt [Top bolt in the photo].
3] Place your Oil Drain Container underneath this section and undo and remove the drain bolt with your 3/8 wrench with no socket on. [Bottom bolt in above pic]. Drain all transmission fluid.
4] Once all had been drained replace the gearbox drain bolt along with a new washer.
5] Feed your gearbox fill pipe through the engine bay and slot it into the fill bolt hole.
6] Pour all 1.7L of your fresh transmission fluid through the funnel.
7] Replace the fill bolt along with a new washer.
8] Check for leaks.
__________________________________________
Whilst the car is up - do the mandatory checks of all bushes and linkages. Grease if necessary.
__________________________________________
I got told by a honda technician 'that you dont need to do your gearbox for ages yet - 72000 miles'!
Good job I did - look at the state of what came out at 40000 miles!
__________________________________________
Spark Plug Replacement <new>
1] Loosen and remove all four 10mm bolts and remove the coil pack cover.
2] Loosen and remove the two 10mm bolts on Coil Pack 1 and 3.
3] Pull the Coil Pack up slightly so that it is disconnected from the plug, then unclip the coil connector.
4] Remove the Coil Pack.
5] Carefully insert your 16mm spark plug socket/wrench [diameter no larger than 20mm], and remove your spark plug.
Old and new Spark Plug. This CTR has only done 40000 miles and is 3 years old. The plugs are not meant to be changed for another 30000 miles, however you can see they are not in a great condition.
6] Spread some Copperslip onto the thread of the new spark plug, be careful not to get it onto the tip.
7] Insert it into your spark plug socket/wrench [there should be a rubber housing that you slip it into].
8] Carefully insert your socket into the chamber and tighten it [making sure you do not cross thread]. Once you feel the plug tighten to the cylinder head give it another quarter turn - do not over tighten.
9] Replace the Coil Pack and reconnect the connectors.
10] Repeat the above for all 4 spark plugs.
11] Replace and tighten the 10mm bolts for Coil Packs 1 and 3.
12] Replace the Coil Pack Cover and tighten all four 10mm bolts.
13] Make sure everything has been connected and tightened then test the new plugs by starting the car and letting it idle. Make sure there are no misfires, etc.
14] All done!
As you can see after 40k they desparatley needed replacing:
Notes about Spark Plug Socket/Wrench
Make sure that the socket you use is deep enough for a spark plug and the diameter is no wider than 20mm otherwise you will not get it into the chamber.
Do not use this type of wrench because Honda put the plugs in very tight so it will snap just like I did:
I lost the only 16mm socket I had deep enough for the K20a sparks and there were no stores that stocked them locally. So I avoided ordering it online by using an old Halfords Spark Plug Wrench I had for the VX220. It didnt fit into the chamber at first but after a bit of filing on each of the edges it slid in a treat:
The CTR is now running very nice, the engine is purring with its nice amber oil, the gearbox is slinky smooth, and powered by some nice new sparks.
This all took just under a couple of hours and saved £££'s.
Let me know what you think. If you complete the work let me know if it was any good, or if you can suggest improvements.
Chris
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