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I have a set of B14's available not even a year old, £750, they were fitted with brand new Honda OE top mounts and bearings. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Unfortunately that's cheap crap these car wash places use. They're operating on the lowest budget possible, they even wash the mitts/towels on the ground [emoji848]. You'll even find some using brick acid. They have no idea on how to safely clean a car let alone apply products. Detailing...

Here is the link if anyone is interested - https://angelwax.co.uk/product/h2go-the-ultimate-rain-repellent/ I've applied this to all my cars, and it's fantastic. Definitely makes driving in the rain a lot safer, in winter you'll also find less frost/ice will sit on the screen. It's best to...

Had mine on a year, never had an issue with 'smearing screen' neither juddering wipers the product is designed to do the opposite... Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

H2GO is amazing stuff, I've had it on for a year and never had to top it up. Still like the day I applied it, anything above 40MPH and you don't have to use wipers Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Hahahaha, yeah mate but it's more in depth to be honest. That or maybe contact a local Honda tuner. [emoji2] Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Might be better asking the question on K20a.org mate Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

How is £750 a premium cost for an exhaust? Explain please. Also defends the fitment of custom made ones. Totally clueless. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

The comments in this thread have made me laugh. My Fuji RM-01A is the best fitting exhaust I've had. The quality was also above and beyond. I highly doubt it was made by someone on £5 an hour. But hey it's JDM Y0 Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

I think people have resorted to using a scaffold bar for extra leverage! They're super awkward to get to Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

They're a very basic product, it's practically dish soap to be honest. I would highly recommend the Meguires range, Gyeon, Gtechniq, KKD they are far better products. [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

My gripe with these Brands (not naming any names) is they don't test their suspension. The design, yes all well and good it's with people who know what they're on about. But they don't test them, they put them on sale and hope the best. With suspension you want proper R&D, you want to know the...

Get yourself some Taiwanse finest them come back in a year when they start leaking. [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Meister is still made in Taiwan, yes it's designed here like all the other brands. But it's still made in an environment where quality will be compromised. There's a reason you can get a fully adjustable coilover for £800, because it's made cheaply. The only Meisters I would buy are the GT1's...

At the end of the day, I'd rather spend the extra money and make sure I've got quality items that have had proper R&D. Suspension is the one thing keeping the car straight on the road, buying lower quality cheaper coilovers is not something I'd be willing to risk personally. Sent from my...

Yellowspeed, Meister and BC are practically made at the same factory. Bilstein are TUV approved and are much better in quality. They'll also be better on the road. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Use camber bolts? I'd much rather use a quality coilover than cheap Taiwanese crap! Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

For the same price you can get Bilstein B14's. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Hi mate, I would go with the cheapest option first. Get it tested on emissions and go from there. You'll then know if it's the sensor or the cat. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Agreed, take it to a garage or your MOT tester. They shouldn't charge you much mate. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

It sounds like the cat is on its way out if the sensor is telling the ECU it's inefficient. If the sensor was faulty it'll give you a code of 'High voltage' as the sensor won't have any resistance. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

The secondary O2 sensor just measures if the cat is working correctly. If you have a K-pro you can actually just disable it. The risk you take putting it through MOT is it may fail on emissions. Even if it would be an advisory on the EML the cat isn't working correctly according to the sensor...

If the filter was clogged your VTC actuator wouldn't work correctly and neither would your VTC. This would throw up an EML (I know as I blew my VTC solenoid up, long story). 100% the starter motor mate. [emoji3] Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Mine is the same mate it'll do it then go away for a week or two. The VTC would not make a grinding noise, if it's the little VTC switch your on about it's only a little solenoid which lets pressurised oil pass. It's usually the cold that makes the starters grind, Honda did acknowledge this...

It's just the starter motor not disengaging fast enough, all K20's are pretty much the same. People have bought new ones and they still do it. VTC is nonsense. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

I need to have both doors painted on my DC5 and there seems to be confusion on what type of paint the DC5 came from factory. I need to know if DC5's came with 2K direct gloss or base cost and lacquer for CW. Someone mentioned if its NH0 on the vin this means 2K direct gloss instead of NH-0...

Not your fault mate but good to know for the future. The woman is a scumbag. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Best thing to do when you've had an accident is put your phone on record and keep it in your hand without them knowing. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

I can properly feel it 'kick' in my DC5 there's certainly a power change. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

I would start by, Checking the earth connections Check for loose connections on the battery terminals Replace battery Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

JDM cars don't have rear fogs, they have a flare in the passenger footwell as you can see to the left. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Jesus that's pricey. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

I think they're clear enough mate, I was more than happy with the instructions Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Bought your kit for the DC5 and the instructions were amazingly clear. The LED strips are high quality and it was nice to see proper 3M adhesive strips. Really happy with them, apart from my back being in pieces getting the choc blocks on haha. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Was the cost for removing the gearbox and changing the flywheel? If so, there are specialists like Area Motorsport who will do that for a fraction of the price. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Check the filter underneath the rear and make sure it isn't leaking. Mine shat itself without me knowing until there were spots of melted underseal on the drive. Funnily enough I had a filter sat in my room ready to change it one weekend I was free. Funnily enough at the time the car was on...

Bad earth can also cause this. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

I feel sorry for you with the amount of people that said chain, chains only start to rattle when they stretch so much they start hitting the cover which you could easily tell by looking at the timing marks. Who carried out the work and did you ask them to investigate the rattle or just replace...

I've done it on top with the intake hose off. I don't think it's any easier as I struggled like fook to get my hand in and use a bottle to catch the fluid Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Insurance - biggest robbing thieves out there. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Keep disagreeing then. Can't tell anyone anything [emoji849] Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

The K20 hates being sat, it does them absolutely no good. Make sure you drive it once every 2 weeks otherwise it makes the IACV sticky Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

No, this is what happens lol I know because I have a family member who is a test driver. The cars are driven at the end to make sure there are no serious issues. If there are they get put in a queue to be fixed and retested. Even then I've seen brand new cars being driven around the roads where...

The cars are put round a test circuit to make sure there are no quality issues. If a car had a rattle or a problem the cars would have had to be driven back and sorted then put back out for fault free running. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Lol [emoji23] Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Copper slip is perfectly fine to use, has been for years and is used in every independent garage. But I doubt this is going to help anyone arguing over greasing the pads. My DC5 is on standard discs and pads at the moment and they'll squeal every once in a while, I haven't had them off to grease...

Okay[emoji23] Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Hardly, stops unwanted noises and I've done it on every brake change I've ever done. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

It's a pretty common trick of copper slipping the back of the pads to stop them squealing. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Just search where the slave cylinder is for that model on Google. I find the internet much better than Haynes, only thing I've ever used the Haynes for is engine builds. [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

If the O2 is on its way out the car will run like dog depending on what readings it's giving the ECU. The car won't revert to a 'map' it'll just give the ECU false readings, they'll be a threshold on the sensor that the ECU will detect through resistance and voltage which will trigger an EML...

Sorry this thread has so many pages on it I didn't see you had mentioned it mate. That's the first thing I'd do anyway rather than go through Honda. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Just thought I'd add in on the brakes, I don't own an FK8 but when brakes squeal like That, copper slip the rear of the pads and it should eliminate the squeal, not sure if new cars come with the pads greased or not? Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Valve clearances have nothing to do with oil consumption. You should be doing a compression check to see how well the rings are sealing first. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Red looks best in my opinion, if we all did the same thing it'd be very boring. Everyone doesn't need a BBK to have red calipers lmao Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

My DC5 sits just below middle, the temperature gauge is really poor to be honest. It's more of a 'I'm warm' and that's it gauge. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

With the prices rising for U.K versions that are low mileage, a JDM version makes much more sense to me. DC5 gearbox LSD Better interior And while being looked after better, lower mileage and you won't lose money they seem a very good investment at the moment. Depends if you want to save...

Note about the engines running in: Unless they have been electronically run in, just take it steady for the first 500 miles. No red lines, sudden acceleration and don't let it idle too long. Nothing to do with the year we're in, run in periods are the same either way. Not sure if engines are...

EP3's are really difficult to find an enthusiast example. Might be worth saving up to get a JDM example if you want one that's been loved? Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

It's up to you, buying modified is always a bigger risk as you don't know the quality of the work that has been carried out. However it can work out better sometimes as it'll save you money if that's the route you would go down. Entirely up to you but there is standard examples out there if you...

What exhaust was on it? You should be able to clearly feel the car almost bolt forward when VTEC engages. I would walk away unless the garage diagnoses. I had an issue with my DC5 where it would bog as soon as VTEC engages. Turned out to be a clogged catback system. Sent from my SM-G955F using...

I have never driven/owned and EP3 but I have the DC5 (bigger brother to the EP3) I use mine for daily driving I do 10 miles to and from work 5 days a week. I love mine as a daily, they are a bit stiff on the bumpy roads. Before you buy one, test drive it for your own sake. The gearboxes aren't...

It's not a massive job, wire wheel on a grinder, treat and paint. £110 is a fair price. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

It's dirt on the seatbelt. There's a good video on YouTube explaining how to clean it. You have to leave your seatbelt soaking in a solution. Once it's clean it'll retract as new. Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

The more I see these the more I want one, in this colour too. I hope the DC5 keeps me from straying [emoji54] Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

You can follow articles all you want but I've personally checked replaced warped discs. Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

No it shows the run out of the discs. You wouldn't use a DTI for pad deposits as you can see the deposits. Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

Warped discs are a real thing, easily checked with a DTI gauge. Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

Engine builder I used mate, not saying it's set in stone just what I was advised. Shell is much closer to me anyway so I always use that Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

Shell V-power is 1.25 for me, would never use Tesco 99 as it has a reputation for burning valves and running very hot. Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

Could the knock sensor cause this issue? Could it be faulty and just retarding the ignition and not throwing a light? Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

Mine isn't this serious, mine's only a really small hesitation. The car still feels quick and no problem overtaking etc. It just feels like it should pull harder between 6 and 7k. Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

No mate I haven't even started anything on mine yet. I'm taking mine on a rolling road to look at AFR's after my service. Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

Yes mate, oil is checked every week. To be honest I think it needs a good service. I don't have any of the history from Japan. So I'm just going to do the 75K service and go from there. Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

Yeah I was planning to do the 75k service interval soon. It's been doing it for around 4k miles but it wasn't until someone else had driven the car they noticed as I thought it was normal. It just doesn't seem to pull as hard as it should. The car is otherwise perfectly fine, off Vtec it's...

73K, had oil and filter 4K ago. I'm going to check the spark plugs and valve clearances when I can. No mods except a 5Zigen Catback. Vtec engages fine, you can feel and hear the crossover. However the needle doesn't seem smooth from 6-7k. Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

When accelerating and hitting Vtec at around 6000 there seems to be a flat spot up until 7000. When I hit 7k the car pulls really hard like it should. The spot between 6 and 7k almost seems as though the car is hesitating. Anyone have any ideas? Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

Cheers, are the timing marks the same for all K20 variations? Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

Has anyone got a decent guide to do valve clearances? Thanks. Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk