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Nah not really, the Rotrex DIY kit seems to be 3.5-5k depending on spec, TDI want 8k fitted for the basic turbo kit. Approx 6k fitted for the CPL SC is quite competitive.

Hi, no probs at all. Agreed it's difficult to find info on it as still a rare conversion, I've not seen another in the flesh. It's an under-rated option and it's a shame not more Honda owners have gone for it, I'm sure they would having driven one. It addresses a lot of the complexity...

I'd describe it as bloody mental. To be fair it was perfectly driveable and civilised, on an otherwise standard car other than the whine of the charger you wouldn't know it was there until booting it. My car was setup for sheer speed with little in the way of comforts, part stripped with...

Interesting, didn't know this but haven't spoken to Guy for 6 months. I'd guess it's an evolution in design rather than revolution, mine was customer car #1 with the original - 345hp with exhaust manifold and 2.5" zorst, approx 370 with water meth and 3" pipe with conservative map, 9 pound...

This was released late in 2017.

For information only, I don't necessarily agree with any conclusions drawn by the publisher: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yN9uOk8LuQQ He has another video, again take it as you will: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zfjt_cRTlFI

Fit, probably. Same, no - entire shock assembly and individual major components such as spring have different part numbers. The EP3 rears will be different to match the uprated fronts on the Type R.

Depends. All of them are constantly driven, Roots type chargers like the old Jacksons sap quite a lot. Newer centris and twin-screw designs, hardly anything.

Yeah if you don't actually need new cables you could just yet the Acuity bushes and the gearbox selection springs they also do: http://www.tegiwaimports.com/acuity-gearbox-transmission-performance-select-springs-honda-k-series.html That would save a couple of hundred.

No. Revo works perfectly though I recommend the installer gives the ball some silicone grease and you let it bed in for a few hundred miles, initially it's a little stiff. This also works really well with uprated transmission springs, a good combo. Assuming you get the Revo you will still need...

That vid is sheer marketing guff, any brakes including the standard setup in good order is more than capable of locking the wheels up so tyres are the limiting factor. Modulation/feel and resistance to fade are the main reasons to get a BBK, outright power is somewhat meaningless however both...

Stoptechs are stupid money. For the price you can get K-System Brembos, and new wheels with correct width and offset to both clear the brakes with ET to get the geometry where you want it without spacers, AND decent tyres as well. ET37 works well and isnt possible using hubcentric spacers as...

These look the same design as ones I've done on E36/46 Beemers and yes it slides off the wishbone, also no it won't need any pressing out/in as the part you've linked includes the bush housing (silver bit) as a single unit. Should be a bolt off bolt on job. I'd also suspect that given good...

Not that it would make much difference, the basic service tasks methods and intervals are pretty much the same.

Probably just too much track time & heat for them to handle if they started to disintegrate, though it's not really the target market for them. The RS-R isn't really in the same category and can be expected to deal with extended track use much better, though I wouldn't want to use them as a...

Au contraire not if you have the XL variety they're a lot better, I assume you didn't as not mentioned it. Having used A2/3 on quite a few hot hatches with significantly above-stock power I've found them to be excellent all-rounders and even capable of good track performance with good feedback...

https://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?87157-EP3-FN2-service-schedule&highlight=service+schedule Sounds like the 37.5k service was done last, though it's now well overdue based on time elapsed and yes it'll be the full service. If I were you I'd get the 50k one done which includes...

Search for M18x1.5 then filter by vehicle parts, plenty of options.

I'd be tempted to just remove the wiring at the connector up by the manifold and replace the sensor with a blanking bung bolt thingy. Cheap, tidy and available on the bay for a few quid.

There are five ways to bleed this type of system. 1. Two-man pump\open\close release method as you mention. 2. One-man kit. Same as above but the hose connecting to the nipple has a one way valve effectively acting as the nipple open\close action. 3. Pressure bleed kit. Difficult to fix to the...

Yeah it's a pain finding a place you trust to do the work especially as all the Honda specialists or major tuners are usually booked up weeks if not months in advance, though really a clutch change is bread & butter for most garages so they should be able to do it right. To be honest a standard...

This. Greasing a thread that should be torqued dry means a false torque reading, you're actually tightening it more than the tool indicates. Dry unless stated by the manufacturer. If concerned about moisture entering the plug tunnel grease the coil boot with some dielectric grease.

Update for posterity - clutch was worn out, a new one has fixed it. Quite odd that it suddenly decided to give up the ghost instead of slowly failing, especially as nothing had obviously suffered a failure, but there you go. Now shifts lovely and the slightly notchiness going into 2nd and bit of...

My EP3 whilst NA and in the previous owners hands was much improved by a CPL reflash with increased drive-ability with noticeably better fuel economy, though the custom map that was then put on after further mods made it significantly better again (probably due to the parts that were...

Yes those are the OEM wheel specs so will be fine. For reference I run AD08Rs in 215/40 on a 7.5" wheel with ET37 offset, on coilovers, and it doesn't scrub at all.

After some further research & consideration I've decided that more than 40k on a ceramic paddle clutch used as a daily with all the associated stop\start usage is actually pretty good going and it's likely just a worn out clutch, so have committed to a replacement FX400 this coming Fri. New...

So my EP3 has developed a clutch issue, I think it's dragging as it's very difficult if not impossible to get it into gear except when stone cold, if any heat is in the clutch it won't work. It doesn't grind into gear, rather makes a whirring noise and can feel being engine braked a little if...

Sounds like it could be the flasher relay, the additional current needed for all four indicators using the hazards may have kicked it back to life. When the issue happens again you an try tapping the relay with the indicator on to see if it springs in to life. Also try re-seating the relay if...

Good price for them, reviewers seem to like them. Good for track, whether they're overkill for road use will depend entirely on your driving style & expectations of comfort vs performance. They do seem aimed at daily drivers also used on circuit so in theory perfect for your needs. Seems like a...

Tyre sidewall height can also make a diference. Changing from the standard 45 aspect ratio to a 40 loses nearly half an inch in clearance.

For the sake of simplicity in the bay, making room above the gearbox and removing the caf, which will all make servicing etc easier - yes.

My charged EP running 365hp with ID 725's gets around 220-250 a tank, that's ragging it everywhere and filling up soon as the light comes on. I've never got close to doing a full tank with economical driving so no idea what the theoretical max is :lol:

As said air is in the system, or a seal in the master cylinder is crapped out. Could be a slave cylinder issue. Small chance something is up with the calipers causing the pads to back of the discs, but it's unlikely. My money would be on a seal in the MC allowing fluid to pass over time. Not...

No worries. Ah yes I forgot it's possible to adjust the FN2 peddle. It'll probably be OK for a while, I guess if it starts slipping again then that's the trigger point to replace :) If the bearing is silent it's likely good.

Well I can't find the diagram but the guys above are spot on in the locations. I've knocked up this image that shows it a little better, I've been very generous in how far round the seal you need to go. If you want to see just how little Honda actually specify\use, you can see the...

On the basis that I daily a Clutchmasters FX400 I'll recommended that :) It's a paddle clutch so engagement is a bit sharp, pedal slightly heavier and it's a little noisy at times, but 4 years and 40k miles on it so far both NA and charged shows it's not a bad choice.

There's a reason there are so many K20 engines with leaky cam covers and it's due to not fitting them properly. If I can find the diagram from the Honda technical bulletin showing where to place the sealant on the K20 gasket I'll post it up, though if you had the original gasket you'll probably...

Very tidy, looks a very decent job on that cover. I assume you're reusing the old gasket with existing Hondabond or fitting a new one using that sealant? If you don't use any in the right places or try using normal black RTV stuff it'll leak...

That catback exhaust on it's own won't affect the cat efficiency. As well as a knackered cat a P0420 could be something as simple as an exhaust leak letting air in before or near the 2nd sensor. First thing to do is get the car in the air and check you actually have a cat fitted (you seem...

What's the Meyle product code? According to their catalogue the belt codes are: Driven unit: alternator, for vehicles without air conditioning Length 1275 mm, Number of Ribs 7 Utility no.: MRB0591 Driven unit: alternator, for vehicles with air conditioning Length 1642 mm, Number of Ribs 7...

A cheap aftermarket pattern cat will do just fine. Yes it won't last as long as an OEM as probably ceramic core instead of metallic, but they're usually good enough to get through an MOT and will last at least a few years. ECP do one for - for example - for about £170. It'll have a warranty. If...

Im agreeing with you. Calm down.

Hmmm enough contamination to slip on the rollers but not on the road? You could be on to something....

Major wheelspin is usually obvious by a sudden drop in the curve followed by an oddly fluctuating or sawtooth line. It could theoretically be a very high level of wheel slip, though given the tyres fitted and the - relatively speaking - tame power level it is unlikely to be the cause unless...

Personally if the car is running fine for you when you drive it & performs well against similar cars, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. There are many variables on your particular car that could be at work here - over-sensitive knock sensor, engine heatsoak due to less that ideal cooling system...

The thought that - eventually - got me through this job was knowing that when they're in the new shifter, they're NOT going to accidentally pop back out. Silver lining and all that...

How many pulls on the dyno did it do? Due to volume of people there I'm guessing they did some gentle warm up runs then a single pull power run. I'd suspect at this point that the dyno operator somehow goosed up the run (and there are a surprisingly number of variables to get wrong especially if...

Copper grease is an anti seize compound, dries out and can be abrasive on moving parts so not the best things to use (despite what Powerflex would have people think). A thick silicone grease is best. Lube all surfaces of the poly part, not just the inner bits. Incorrectly sized poly bush vs...

Was it lower than expected output just at the top end, or throughout the entire rev range? Seeing a dyno chart would help. What did you dyno operator have to say about it? Is your car stipped out? Lower sidewall tyres? These little things can add up.

Some droplinks have the flats partly hidden by the rubber boot, try pushing it out the way a bit. The hex part may be present but there may be a bung fitted to protect it (rare), or might be filled with grease or road crap so it isn't obvious, though I assume you've had a thorough prod about...

Well found and fingers crossed then! :smt041

A picture of this would be helpful. Assuming those two connectors you reseated were on top of the throttle body, neither are the TPS. That's on the front of the TB. The two on top are the purge valve and MAP sensor, if the latter was getting a bad connection it would cause exactly your most...

Correct, throttle pos sensor. It bolts to the throttle body and tells the car, well, clues in the name :p The originals use an electrical track/wiper setup and eventually wear out can cause major issues around 2k but have been known to be problematic at other revs. You also need to calibrate it...

Sounding more and more like a dodgy TPS to me. What's it got fitted? Try calibrating it, but I'd be looking at throttle trace on logs. Check there's nothing funny going on with the cable too.

If you're lucky it'll be just a buildup of dust and muck and it'll only need everything cleaning up, the slide pins greasing and possibly the pad edges and pad\caliper mount points tidied up a bit. If you're unlucky then the piston boot will be damage, there'll be corrosion and crap on the...

True, though I may be tempted to 'bung' it in (groan) on the road too if the mood takes me. Having what looks somewhat like a steampunk enema up the cars chuff isn't ideal. It's not over the top loud now but if it only drops a few bhp and doesn't cause it to run too rich in open loop then I may...

Cheers. The bung I have is the usual type and came with the exhaust (tdi 3"). The one in the link might be better but it looks bloody terrible :) It's in for a remap next week so I'll see if I can get a final run done with it fitted for comparison.

Has anyone done any back to back dyno runs with an exhaust that has a tip baffle\bung\db killer are whatever you want to call it, fitted and then removed? I'd be interested in seeing what the difference was with the thing fitted on these engines, the majority of info I can find is about bikes...

I highly recommend the Revo, good value for money shortshifter based on OEM design. It made the biggest difference and improvement over the other mods I made. There's a used one on fleabay right now (it's not mine and I have no affiliation with the seller). Maybe no good for the OP based on his...

The XU engines in the 205 Gti were similarly orientated, intake at the front exhaust out the back. The pre K Honda lumps end up rotating the same way in relation to the chassis as they're effectively installed the other way around so the exhaust is at the front, but the gearbox then ends up on...

Clockwise from the timing end.

I've never seen redex work on any vehicle. The only thing that's worked for me is something called seafoam, it's been brilliant on three different bikes I've had suffering from gummed up carbs. Left to sit a number of times when running it through the system completely sorted them. It's supposed...

I think that problem was on early production units and has since been fixed. I confirmed it with wavetrac themselves when I was considering but didn't replace the quaife with one.

I'd recommend not getting a plated diff as they're usually more aggressive when they lock up. I'd had a Drexler plate diff in a FWD car, it kicked terribly through the steering when activated. I prefer ATB type diffs like the quaife and wavetrac due to the feel of them, and the zero maintenance...

Here you go: https://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?87157-EP3-FN2-service-schedule You may want to check out the additional info stickies in the dedicated EP3 forum section.

Perfectly fine to fit on its own. Any harshness felt will depend on if you have yellow or black series, yellow you'll hardly notice any more vibration with that insert alone.

Yes it's a pain in the ass. Admittedly only takes a couple of minutes to pop the normal ones in, but still.... Aftermarket HID dodgy install wiring, non-white colour and dazzle should be passed\failed testers discretion, but a total ban is easier for the DoT to write so there you go.

Starter motor? Could be intermittently trying to engage with the flywheel, switching it off/on could be resetting the solenoid somehow. Wild guess!

Jimbo's advice is sound, though I'd still change that filter, also what fuel are you putting in it and how much is in the tank when it misbehaves? Basic stuff but you never know and worth ruling out... If you do connect it to a laptop it is likely you can't change anything anyway as tuners...

Not directly comparable as I'm running a slightly different size tyre, I have AD08R's in 215/40 on TD 1.2s that are 7.5x17 et37. Lowered a reasonable amount on coilovers and doesn't rub. I'll get a pic on my way out of work later.

The further random though occurs that you may have some overly aggressive protection parameters setup on your KPro, read about them here: https://www.hondata.com/help/kmanager/index.html?protectionparameters.htm

Ah right, I was thinking if it recovers with a push of the clutch you might have some full throttle shifting setup which need a clutch switch that might be playing up. Clearly not! As you have the KPro4 you should be able to do data logging, and use the Hondata phone app to connect via...

The hydraulic circuit for the clutch isn't opened for a clutch change, the slave is unbolted from the bellhousing and a few other brackets fiddled with, that's it. Yes worth doing anyway if the fluid is dirty, easy flush as no air gets into the system.

From your description it sounds like the clutch release bearing, though difficult to tell without hearing it. Do you know when the clutch was last changed and was it a full kit including the bearing?

Cool. Sounds like the previous owner broke the basic tuning rule; fit mods THEN map :)

Ideally you need a remap to account for the decat, though turning off the 2nd O2 sensor - which is likely throwing up the EML due to perceived lack of cat efficiency- is just a tick box in the Hondata config. As it's a K100 you will need a mapper to do that for you anyway so might as well get...

Get some sticky back velcro, apply one side to scoop and the other to the top rear of the box. Keeps it still and easy to remove when needed.

Does it have a clutch switch fitted?

The cam cover seal will need Hondabond sealant applied to the correct areas to be fully oil tight. Just whacking in a new seal or applying black RTV silicone usually doesn't work and it will leak, so make sure they do it properly as per the Honda service manual. There may be alternative products...

Very nice car. A JDM rear ARB would give the front more grip.

Possibly a wiring or plug fault. Check the wiring carefully especially where you may have disturbed\handled it, also check the plug components for damaged pins or connector out of place.

The Teg is proven to work well and is a safe buy from a performance standpoint. Nidge bought my old Teg pipe and cleaned it up before fitting, see it and what he thinks here: https://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?99698-Nidge-s-Cosmic-EP3/page19

The exhaust is looking good. It scrubbed up well! What did you use a polishing mop\compound? It'll also be fine at near standard ride height and shouldn't hit a thing.

My setup up until recently was standard size 300mm RPB discs, DS2500 pads, braided lines and a brake stopper. All very good, much improved over the OEM stuff and easily good enough for a little track time. Recently changed to the K-System 325mm kit. Overall power is obviously up but the biggest...

Probably the reduced tyre grip letting the steering do it's thing more effectively. You'd never get that much water hitting the rack components let alone lube it.

Cheers. For some reason I hadn't found this before: https://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?86869-400-cell-cat-experiences-thoughts Based on Pete's later comments it doesn't work too well, as suspected it doesn't get hot enough and the 400cel still isn't enough. I've got a Piper...

Has anyone got a TDI 3" exhaust with one of their cats fitted? I've see a few discussions about it and that they had to go from a 200 to 400 cel cat when testing to pass emissions testing, but can't find anything from anyone that might actually have one fitted. I like the idea of a 400 over a...

I've been in an EP3 with one fitted and had a few other cars I've owned with Piper cat backs fitted. Good quality systems that generally fit and perform well - Does What It Says On The Tin, so to speak. Not loud or "JDM" enough for some tastes. Decent warranty with them and pretty much...

EP is 45. To be specific ET45, but that's a good question. Is the OP confusing tyre aspect ratio with offset?

45 is standard so should be fine, though a 55 will likely make the geometry more stable due to altered scrub radius which may have been masking a tracking issue, so I'm more inclined to agree that an alignment might help. Did you notice any odd or fast wear on the winter tyres? What summer...

No, changing the wheels\tires should NOT affect the alignment whatsoever so it should not need adjusting. What offset are your summer wheels and are you using spacers?

Kpro V4 also has bluetooth capability allowing you to connect to it using the Hondata app for monitoring\fault finding. I'm pretty sure you need a KPro too if you ever want the Hondata traction control module. Admittedly this is more than appears to interest the OP, though more to it than just a...

Hi, my guess would be that due to the extra block height of the K24 some component, probably the exhaust header, is touching something else under certain engine load\rev conditions. Check the engine for anything that could now be touching, and the clearance around the Toda header. Check the...

Hi, 1. Yes can be done without opening the AC system, though you need to remove the condensor and pipe brackets to loosen it all up and give you wiggle room to get the water rad out. If you ever have plans to fit slimline radiator fan(s) do it now as it will help with space going back in. 2. No...

K-System (known for their Brembo brake kits) do a kit: http://k-system.pro/en/product/shifter-cable-bushes-ep3-npq3/ 75 euro\£65. Guessing + postage. They deliver fairly quickly, in fact faster than some UK retailers I've dealt with!

AD08R

Says at the end "Fits oem DC5 Integra shifter boxes from K20A/A2/A3/Z1 engines". I'll put a virtual tenner on it not fitting.

The spring looks similar, the ball looks like it's too small and/or hole in middle is too big to me. I'd be amazed if they're missing a trick by failing to list it for a compatible car. The box side is pretty samey, the lever end is I believe quite different. I guess K Tuned could answer a...

A big problem the take-up of electric cars by the public is the price of the things and the fast-paced development of the technology itself - a lot people already treat their car almost as a throwaway accessory what with 3 year PCP etc. Otherwise who wants to buy one now as a long term prospect...

https://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?100795-Fog-light-blanks Most options in there.