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They still make that ? It's even worse in many ways than the HKS Each to their own

Piper cross are one of the worst filters you can use . The cell structure is know to break down and get injested for a start. The issue with panel filters is area. The foam ones are all pretty flat where as paper filters are pleated which doubles their area. The honda one is actually the...

Exhaust manifold before the CAT

The lack of a CAT is causing the fuelling in your motor to go haywire, the 2 options you have is to fit a CAT or get a Hondata mappable ECU and have it mapped to suit the intake and decat. Fitting defoulers etc is only masking the issue and slowly destroying your engine.

You sure the MAP and TPS plugs aren't mixed up ? Causes this fault .

Maybe replace it :S

L:ooks out a country mile. The 2 timing marks should be on links and not between 2, also when both timing marks are on the links there should be 7 full links between them. The 2 marks on the pulleys should line up with a horizontal line on the head but sometimes that's not perfect. The best...

The mFactory stage 1 diff pack is a set of differently cut gears and preload shims for their ATB. It makes it tighter and behaves more like a plate with no noise etc associated with those. Give Grinspeed a shout

These zero load problems are all but solved on ATBs as they come preloaded The Mfactory can be made even tighter with the free stage 1 upgrade

Full Race turbo manifolds do not fit I can tell you that for sod all

If you map it on NOS and take the ignition advance out when you are off NOS it will be like driving a saxo. You can't have a set map switch like a K PRO where you can have a NOS input from a bottle pressure switch or dash switch etc to switch to lower IGN calibration on the fly.

Yes it will as there is salt in it Your safer washing it in pure degreasant as fundamentally that's what it is

How are you planning to control ignition as you can't have switchable maps on a fn2

Brilliant

Take the end off the fuel rail under the inlet manifold cover, Stick it into a piece of garden hose and the other end into a container, flick the key to position 2 and enjoy. Make sure the battery is healthy and don't be smoking

If your in an FN2 and using flash pro contact vit tuned. The best bar none . Tell him I sent you

As long as the nub is located in the piston correctly they will be ok. If not, they will jam

The locating nub hasn't been inserted correctly into the piston when it was fitted . The inner pad sits at an angle, wears funny then jams in the slider. When you fit the pads have the grooves in the piston running running vertical and pump the pedal slowly to release the piston and make...

is there a nub on the back of the inner pad ?

Not directly, I fitted a set to my FN2, you need to redrill the bolt pattern on the caliper and then mill the caliper mounting face too. Though the huge benefit is not only a much larger caliper and pad print than using FD2/DC5 calipers, it means you can use the 320mm Evo disc and every...

It's electric assisted steering

Nice lol. Hope your sorted fella

Double post

Stock maps are all done on the same logic. Mine was smashed recently and drove fine. Now if the dc5 was mapped that's a different story entirely as you can do special things on hondata ;)

It's not an active knock system. It's primary use is to detect fuel quality and retard ignition by a set amount if knock occurs . Just because the OPs has failed doesn't mean ignition is automatically retarded . What it does mean is if knock occurs because it won't be detected no retard will...

It won't pre retard ignition. That's not the way these ecus work . But it won't when it needs to

Swap it . Sod knows what's going on as the ecu can't detect knock. The sensor is on the front of the engine beside cylinder 3 below the I let manifold . Easy job and you'll get a sensor in a breakers. Be very easy on it though the green cover breaks off very easy

What are you doing ? replacing the chain or are you doing the tensioner too. If you are replacing the tensioner it is locked off with a small pin- it comes with one when you buy it. If your using your existing tensioner you will need a pin. Also to make it very easy I recommend you lock...

Good ridge make their own . HEL make they're own, HKS and DoLuck

It'll be broken. The green cap is very susceptible to damage and once it's took a hit it's usually scrap.

Block that off. Thats your issue. The MAP sensor is meant to go in there,.

I use HnR alway :lol:

Are you sure it isn't valve clearances needing adjustment

Those are just general spacers. The only reason they are hubcentric is the oem spigot is longer than 5 mm. I still wouldn't use them without full spigot engagement . Properly tested and manufactured spacers are 100 quid odd for a reason.

I'd be interested on what leads you swapped lol

How did you know no.3 was lean .It can't tell as there is only one primary o2

TPS, primary O2 or idle control valve would get my vote as above

The fact it is a one piece item scares me. All stock K series and what I would call proper aftermarket crank pulleys are 2 or multipiece items. The stock item is actually rubber bonded, what this does is act as a dampener for shocks in the drivetrain and saves your bearings a load of abuse...

If your ever stuck for a Calibration or a well sorted dyno for a tune I can personally vouch for Richard Bulmer @Tractive solutions. One of my closest friends is good friends with him and they work closely together and we share similar drinking habits :)

Bottom end ok?

You won't find a TRD one for a K20 as that stands for Toyota Racing Developments. Exedy/FIdanza are good, Clockwise is the best and one of the lightest.

What if someone else has 50 grams less fuel?

yes you can but you need to unlock it from a previous car. it can only be used on one car at the same time, so you don't buy one and map 50 FN2s. on a stock car no not at peak 4-6bhp but in the midrange maybe 10-15bhp see this re elite...

You have to buy it and it is coded to your ecu so you cant map multiple cars at once. It only gets plugged in to map, check codes or datalog so everyday it can be left at home etc. ] Most tuners sell them and can do a deal with mapping etc./

Elite ****ed that car up. The guy ended up getting it put back to stock and sold it as it was never the same. This is 2014, why open a 4grand ECU, solder wires onto it to install a map when Hondata can do it over the OBD? The Elite guy ( pun) said he could get more power etc than Hondata as he...

You really think the weight of two differing gasses in tyres is going to make an impact. If you really think that for a track day your in the wrong car. You need something much more serious. Maybe take a big crap before you go out or leave the air freshener in the pit.

You do realise air is 79% Nitrogen right? Nitrogen filling is used as "proper" Nitrogen doesn't contain any where near as much moisture as air and so when tyres heat up the pressure in the tyres doesn't fluctuate. Leading to a more controllable set up. The usual problem still exists though of...

Bags out, i'd say it's a goner

What do you think of the PF pads, are they the 97 type?. I was out round spa in a 3.6GT3 with a full set of those in with PF discs and it stopped on the mark amazingly but always wondered if a civic could get enough heat into them day to day. I use the Endless MX72 pad on my Evo Brembo set up...

The engine has no compression sensor so you got the code wrong. Time to rip the rocker off and inspect the valve train and then the head if need be . I'd say it's not stuck it's burnt .

Primary o2 sensor or TPS

Fantastic :)

Awesome, what did you need to do to make it fit? Tweak the hub a little?

Could also be the valve clearances or top idler pulley

Very wierd how it only appears at engagement, I wouldn't vtec until you get it sorted

What is the code? is the same knock code? Usually when a MIL is illuminated at Vtec point but it still engages it is a timing issue. Check the code and post it up.

That code means a screwed sensor or a wiring fault. The sensor is below the inlet manifold on the front of the engine and is round and green with a plug on it's body. It simply screws out.

That'll be grand

Thats the EVAP from the fuel tank - definitely needs ducted to the intake otherwise pressure builds in the tank

Get a stock airbox from a breakers etc. Sounds like a pig of a car. An oil change won't change VTEC point as its computer controlled.

Have you the stock airbox? Is the car mapped ?

Nothing goes in there.

Basically you need a conversion harness as no Hondata product exists that suits your loom. The Kpro is a standalone ecu based on the oem item and with a few wiring changes can be made to run on most K series cars. The main thing is that your immobiliser will be gone so you will need to install...

Are you sure the motor is timed properly? If you set the bottom pulley to TDC- use a long driver down the spark plug hole dont use the pulley markings and with the cam cover off you should be able to insert 2x 4mm drill bits through the cam pulse plates into 2 pre drilled holes in the head. It...

Glazes will wash off with rain etc, They need sealed in with either a wax or sealant. TBH, there are no " best" waxes, just ones that fit your requirements, much like tyres, jeans or beers tbh. As far as "detailing" goes it really is all in the prep work, a decontamination and machine polish...

2 Litres of oil is plenty.

Why did it need a fuel pump? Get the code read asap

It'll be the hardlines John that the garage is referring too. I would ask for a second opinion, sometimes a rub down with emery paper is enough to remove the corrosion.

For intake and exhaust I would waste your money on Kpro. K100 is ample

All the torque settings are the same between A and Z engines . Most people use 9 and 11 as this helps up top end power a little ( miniscule amount).

They clearly over tightened the adjuster so the handbrake didn't release fully. I'd be pushing for a full replacement set up and if they don't oblige I would contact trading standards.

On the EP3 is it possible to set the separation distance of the clutch at the pedal. A few of us on Civinfo have this on the FN2 and it's easily fixed by adjusting the clutch.

Yes, I have tried Denso Power and both NGKs and not noticed one iota of change. Now I just get the cheapest of the bunch and swap them more regular.

OEM plugs are either NGK or Denso depending on year. Both companies do 2 plugs AFAIK, Denso do the power and tough ranges and NGK do Iridium 9 and Laser Iridium. These are all identical pretty much structure wise and the only difference is the extended change interval on the tough and Laser...

WTF is a fuel magnet

Most failures I have heard of tensioners, chains and guides either have been non oem or used with non oem cams. Always use Honda parts for critical components imo.

Either will do on any car, Both sets are heat range 7 same as oem ( which vary between Denso and NGK) the cheaper ones aren't designed to last as long simples - all explained on NGKs site.

Guy on civinfo fitted one. It failed MOT even though it was glowing for the test

The issue is probably due to the fact you have reduced the spigot engagement amount on the hub, so the wheel studs are bearing more weight - this isn't what they are designed to do. Nice brakes though

Wrong :)

Warm air aids MPG, Cold air aids BHP

This was on todas valve train on all instances. Even the replacement cams from Toda done the same thing. Owners swapped brands of sticks and the problem went away

I would avoid recent A3 cams tbh. Toda has moved production away from Japan And core quality has dropped. I've seen pics of 3 faulty cores with severe lobe damage using toda valve train.

Its probably the condensation off the aircon condensor. Nothing to worry about as it is normal

Honda syncros are carbon lined now. They aren't fitted to any boxes but do come this way if ordered as parts

No performance benefit on an NA engine. Only when you go turbo they are easier to return feed etc for an external pressure reg set up. I have the Skunk2 and although it looks the part, was a pig to fit and needed persuaded in

Cam cap bolts are 16.7ft/lb

There are two. The fault codes generated with be labelled A or B . A is Intake, B is exhaust. Over revved recently/ lack of oil? All these can lead to chain stretch and cam errors - don't vtec the car and get the base timing checked along with a replacement chain and tensioner once you...

I can't believe Honda rate them as lifelong. One missed gear change is enough to stretch them too far

Chain is not lifelong. Low oil, hard use etc can all lead to stretch and premature wear. I would definitely be swapping out the lot at circa 75k imo Maybe less depending on the stress the car has seen

Look for a product called Iron-X on cleanyourcar.co.uk That will dissolve it

The first thing at the top of the page is not a critical piece, it bypasses air past the TB on cold starts to run the engine leaner to help it warm up and also atomise the fuel a little better - if your stuck, as someone says tape up both ends. The second part just above is a fuel pulse...

Thanks for the reply bud

Whats your opinions of the collars fella

Scott Same process. Aim for 9 intake and 11 exhaust.

I don't think its that pipe either as off the top of my head thats a coolant hose for the oil cooler/warmer. Look above that towards the rocker gasket area etc. You definitely sure its oil?

Fair play, thats ballsi-er than mine :)

EBC blues are worth a punt. Very good pads for my set up and very keenly priced

Yes, catchment area is much larger

No camber arms on an FN2