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Great thread. It's inspiring! Have you fitted the c-hook discs yet? What are they like?

Looks good so far. What are you doing for indicators and side lights? Are you going to Audi style DRLs?

Also... don't forget to look up the VW branded Quantum Platinum oil. Its dirt cheap at £20 for 5 litres and its actually Castrol Edge in VW packaging.

Have a look at this website... http://honda-tech.com/acura-rsx-dc5-honda-civic-ep3-32/ep3-dc5-suspension-tuning-basics-faqs-told-mustclime-2639666/

Assuming you mean one of these? http://www.beaksbars.com

I've had similar issues with shocks after fitting Eibach Sportlines.

Similar problem on mine turned out to be the front shocks. Once change the car felt grounded and stopped making clunking noises.

braided hoses I've got a set of HEL hoses on mine. Had Goodridge on my previous cars. Got mine from eBay through a shop called Matt Lewis Motorsport. Easy as. Cheapest price for something made for him by HEL.

Try chucking in "Lastchance30" for 30% discount

Make sure that you use a lithium based grease... not copper slip.

Welcome back Loxy, not that you really left. lusting at the FD right now.

Welcome back to the real world... It was a shame you couldn't have stripped the gearbox and other parts. Did you ever find out where the Cosmic EP3 ended up? Which breakers?? would have been good to go and pick up the gearbox with the LSD etc in it. Enjoy the new one. Hope it's as good as...

You can't turn off the airbags in an EP3. There isn't a key lock in the dash to do this, or able to do it by computer like most newer cars.

The Loxster is referring to the fact that the engine has a timing chain, not a timing belt.

Have a look at this one then... http://www.auto-led.com/honda-civic-lights/3713.html Being a yank setup it looks like they won't work on the uk roads. They'll light up in the wrong direction.

Check your earthing points for the headlights. if they are loose then you'll get the same issues with the HIDs And check out Euro Car Parts for the Osrams. They've got a deal on at the moment.

The standard earthing the green wire doesn't work. The newer Pioneers need a double electrical pulse on the wire to get it to work properly. http://youtu.be/lDGZEZrUdRo Have a look at this. It should help and takes about 5 mins to make up a bypass relay.

Which chrome front indicator bulbs did you go for? I've looked into this and there isn't much choice out there.

What can be done to stop it?

When I've painted mine, didn't bother with a base coat. Just bought some proper caliper paint, Folitec for example. Used plenty of brake cleaner and a good wire brush and/or nail brush for the difficult bis. Mask up the rubbers etc and put the paint on. A couple of good coats should be...

At least if you're going to HID up the car you'll know exactly what you're putting in.

Personally I'd check the wiring loom. It could be wired up backwards from the manufacturer or more likely somebody has got the harness on upside down/twisted the 180 degrees the wrong way. Obvious suggestion I know but always best to start at basics and work upwards from there.

Ask Joe said. Take your time. Use the dual bucket wash method to make sure you don't add more light scratches.

Nice one. Cheers buddy

Which ones did you go for? This is a tweak to the lighting which I have been looking at.

Seriously good thread. Enjoying seeing a wreck becoming something amazing. Nice one Adam. Can't wait to see this Beauty in all its glory. Keep it up.

Do you find yourself travelling through time? Have you changed your name to Marty Mcfly?

Who wants a red one when the black is the fastest colour!

Brum brum... Sorry {...silence...} {...silence...}

Very Tasty. Can't wait to see this beast giving Snet300 a damn good slapping.

I suppose we ought to set off up the crack of Dawn in the MilkFloat, so Deano can play catch up!

Be there or be square.

Especially if you find them on here or CivInfo.

Hey Sonny. This is how I fitted mine. 1) Drop the window. 2) Fit the wing mirror end first (Thin end) and push it firmly into the window runner slot. 3) Peal off the double sided tape along the top and the end. 4) Gently bow the wind deflector towards you in the middle and hook the free...

Got to love the motor trade. Have you had the car less than 3 months? If so then the dealer is legally obliged to fix the car. And that includes anything. Warranty is nice but only good after the 90 day legal obligation. Take it back. And don't take No for an answer. Trading Standards...

Looking rather tasty there buddy. Can't wait to see it later today Surprised you haven't gone for a smudge of carbon on the grille and mirror caps.

It's too easy to go bananas with this stuff if you're not careful. After all How much is Too Much? Just have to decide what bit of the motor need the Carbon Lovin'.

Run Forrest Run! My sheet of DiNoc turned up today. Hurry up weekend. I have work to do!

So shiny. Needs the roof Di-Noc'd for the full nastiness.

J's racing is great and looks good too. Just watch out if you have a Mugen airbox. They will rub on each other as the engine moves and body flexes.

There a Mugen spoiler on eBay which looks better. Just need a local engineering firm to make up the rear struts.

Don't lose your sleep. That's just the American rubbish they get over there. Nothing to worry about for us here. Besides it's a bit boring. The UK one will look like a UFO plus some.

Valve clearances is a mileage thing rather than a time thing. Do them if you've done the mileage. The missus used to do only 3000 miles a year so didn't need her clearances done until the third year!

As the great Colin would say... It's a bit Loose! I bet that engine and gearbox feel lovely. Honda Engines don't break in until they've done their first 100,000. Congrats on the bargain price.

Do what I did. Complain to Honda about it and get them changed under warranty. If your dealer isn't helping then ring up Honda UK and ask them to help instead.

As Joe says. Have a look on the Detailing World website for some really geeky ways to improve your paint. It's gonna cost you many hours of elbow grease and tons of patience. Good luck. Black is such a difficult colour to get right but damn it looks amazing when you get it like glass.

Where did you get your DiNoc from? How much was it?

Very tasty. I bet peeps on this site will quite happily pay to have an expert to the job for them.

I'm going to Di-Noc my roof, door mirrors and front grille when the car turns up at the dealers. Then I'll see what bits can be done on the interior. Mmmm Nice!

Stick your head under the front wheel arch. Look to where the pipework exits the wheel arch and where the brake hose joins it. You will find the blocks. If you could machine the parts at work, it looks like an Opp to make some dosh for those who don't want to pay Goodridge prices.

Done the whole Goodridge blocks and 6 hoses. Don't buy the 4 hose kit as you will be missing out the important 2 hoses which go over the rear torsion beam. So a waste of time. 6 hose kit without the blocks is an MoT failure waiting to happen. Don't know much more than that about this kit but...

I'd be inclined to do a Full HPI and get the MOT and service done if you really want to blow some cash. You can always have the warranty info to one hand if you think the buyer will want it.

Changed all my tyres from the dreaded Bridgestones to Goodyear F1 GSD3. Was the best upgrade I did to the car. Made it drive properly. Great Move.

I'm guessing that you have fitted a brand new exhaust. Until they have done a few miles and carboned up a bit they all sound a bit loud and boomy.

Do we know who it is? Be good to get an appreciation fund going to try and cheer him up a bit.... even if its just a card or something.

Don't think you're wrong. Very Interesting.

Could always not go to sleep and then it'd just be a really really late afternoon?! :cool:

A smidge of a Convoy will be grand. Looks like I'll be driving then, as I'm sure Dons will want to have a sit in the FD2. See you at 1pm on Saturday.

Edy has twisted my arm, so will be coming down at lunchtime to have a look. Shall have to ask Julian very nicely for a passenger ride in his munster.

If the guy is a trader then he is totally liable for ALL of the repairs for the first 3 months after you picked it up. Especially good to know if the advert had trader showing. Good luck and keep us all informed.

Sounds like a DIY job on the cheap BluePrint discs to me.

Good thing about the Mugen kit is that it's a guaranteed power increase.

I think the pics of the FN2 CTR needs a bit of Martinization. I'm sure he'd like to get his Clawz into that one! :lol:

Might as well get yourself a Mugen grille..... oh and the Red badge. :twisted: Black spoiler...??? Carbon yes otherwise NNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! :eek:

Hello CompGuru. Fancy seeing you here. Here's a pic of the S2k so far. OK they've gone off to be refurbished. Can't have anything less than perfect for Madam. :roll:

It has been mentioned that I seem to be on the Man-Mountain size. Beautifully in proportion of course. :shock:

I can't even be bothered to list the mistakes on the car. The list would be endless. Should have just bought the real thing.

This kerb mark. Is it nasty or damn right bad. Do you think you could change it under warranty??

Just order one from your local dealer. Don't forget to demand lots of discount. Or order from US which is cheaper (exchange rate etc.)

Try this for size. NPAE - Champagne Silver (R241-E YR220L) Thinner - T537 Activator - C762 This is the proper code from the actual Honda factory painters

What a long thread. Anyway back to the original question. I've tried pretty much every variation of strut brace with my Mugen Airbox. Unfortunately, short of building my own, none have fitted. BUT the Mugen / Spoon brace will fit over the Mugen Box, but I didn't want to move the...

Glad you like it. I did that ages ago when I first got my hands of Don-R's ........ CTR

You wouldn't be wrong. Anything with a bit of speed behind it and Don-R will be there. :twisted: :shock: Well Trying to catch me up anyways!!! :lol:

I think it's gonna be down to what you're going to do with them. If you're racing then you need the Stoptech brakes. If you're going to be fast roading etc then go with better pads, discs and the Braided hoses. I've done the braided hoses so far. The braking has changed dramatically...

Totally agree. Have seen the mayhem that is a DC5 Brembo brake change. Might as well go and buy the front suspension off a DC5. I'ts quicker and easier. Personally if the BTCC uses AP Racing , then it's good enough for me.

Just bought some of this stuff. Ready to mummify mine. I did buy the black pre-sludged version for £31. Must get some stainless cable ties next. I'm pretty sure that 1" x 50' will do the whole manifold. 8' of wrap to cover 1' of manifold.