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+1 to clutch, you may find that starting the car in gear with clutch pedal pressed in causes a little jolt occasionally.

without a doubt, get a few estimates, that seems excessive!

Thanks very much for the info! For some reason, I've not considered that one. I've been concentrating on the straight upward lifting types but it seems to give good access to the underside. Will have to add it to my list

Apologies for going off topic but couldn't help but notice your lift. Been considering buying a scissor lift. Could I ask what lift that is please?

Sorry, already tried to PM you but your account won't receive it due to being full (from memory). can you clear space?

hello, can you provide "laid up" (SORN) cover please? thanks

did you disconnect any brake lines, bleed screw etc?, if not, it's more than likely just due to the pads needing to "bed in" which is fairly normal.

Yep You may notice a slight jolt if you start the car up in gear with clutch pressed in too which can be another sign

Sorry for hijacking thread, could I ask which ball joint press you used please? I am looking to sort my ep3 out but don't want to buy one that is unsuitable. Thanks

If it's on original exhaust, the flange on the b pipe to back box joint rusts away which leaves the bolts loose. It's worth checking those.

Meant to add that you can buy stainless steel srews from ebay that have an alanhead slot rather than screwdriver. They should be a lot easier to remove and cost around £2.70 ish for 8

+1 to the centre punch method ( or chisel) works without fail

Totally understand you wanting to just get it sorted. If you are happy to pay them to sort it, just go for it but it may be worth you having a quick read of the sale of goods act first so you can make an informed decision. There are plenty of sites that provide easy information on it. At best...

I personally would argue to have it replaced free of charge as it should be fit for purpose which it doesn't sound like it is ( i.e it is affecting the main use of the goods - driving it!)I suggest getting back to them straight away as your rights reduce the longer you leave it. If it's only...

My wife's went around that mileage too. It would behave fine one minute, then the next it would feel notchy as hell. you could also feel the car lurch forward whilst starting it in first gear with the clutch in. New clutch fitted and it felt like a new car. You will definitely notice the...

Only thing I can think of to cause that is a sticky/loose slide pin perhaps?

Brake fluid change perhaps? Can't remember the exact details of when it is required, but seem to recall every 3years.

That's interesting as my wife's has just turned 147000 miles so very close. Wondering if that's about the life expectancy of the sensor.

That's happened to my wife's. Managed to reset twice which would last a couple of weeks but now won't reset. From what I understand, the second sensor is used to monitor the cat by comparing O2 content before and after. As there are no fault codes for the cat at the moment I'm going to stick to...

It's integral unfortunately.

Cheers! From what I've read, this is specific to the "heater circuit" of the secondary O2 sensor and as such does not affect running directly. Again, from reading, I believe the heater circuit to be included in order to speed up the time it takes for the O2 sensor to heat up and work at it's...

Currently have this on my wife's ep3 too. Reset it a couple of times but it is now permanent. Never used super before but it did start immediately after filling up one day!

+1 to clutch, you may also notice that you get a little jolt if you start it up when in first gear with clutch in. As loxy said, a sign that it is not disengaging. Happened on my wife's at 120000 ish miles. New oem clutch from honda for £420 and as good as new afterwards.

I had oem clutch from Honda for £420, always worth asking!

Wiring can be repaired. Depending on the exact location of the cut, I would have thought that soldering and insulating correctly with heat shrink etc would be fine to do.

Love those wheels/colour combination!

£450 is the amount I paid for my wife's NSF caliper at Honda as like you I was pretty much stranded at the road side. when the osf one went, they used a refurbished one for about £180 from memory so it may be worth asking them. I definitely wouldn't be paying £450 for a brand new one. Both have...

All sorted now, had to run some silicon grease around the lip of the boot. thanks for the advice!

Cheers jamieboy, I tried that yesterday but to no avail however I think i just need to persevere and get some grease under the lip of the boot.

Just been reading further on this and may try to get some silicon grease between piston and boot. May need to extract piston further out to do so.

Thanks for your reply ctr-. The strange thing is that the piston isn't siezed, in fact it's turning freely. The problem is that the boot's twisting as I wind it back and no matter what I try, I can't seem to stop it. I managed to turn it through 90 degrees in order to get the old pads in but...

Hello all. changed rear disks today, however was unable to change pads as no matter what I tried, I could not get the passenger side piston to wind back without the boot turning. Tried fully cleaning with brake cleaner, sprayed with wd40 but the boot appears to be stuck solid to the piston. I...

It's difficult to say without driving it but new pads will need to bed in however I would have thought they would be ok after that mileage. If any grease went on the disks during the change would affect performance so it's worth checking and cleaning if necessary. one other thing to consider is...

The common issue with the starter does not prevent starting, but having said that it doesn't last for 3 seconds so may not be that.

The grinding noise could be the starter motor if it is only for a brief second, if so it' s quite common, there are a number of posts relating to it on here. My wife,s ep3 does it too.

Ah sorry, just noticed it is the fn2 you have so may be different.

It definitely sounds like something is wrong. We have had an Astra vxr and it was nowhere near our ep3s for fuel economy. Both of which get around 36 mpg in mixed driving of 10%/90% town/motorway (admittedly with very little vtec). +1 on rear brakes being the culprit.

The best test is to put back together although you don't need to put the wheel back on, just try spinning the disk by hand and see if you get a couple of rotations, then try again with handbrake applied to make sure you can't move it. Release the handbrake and see if the disk rotates again. If...

You can remove the caliper from the carrier which will allow you to clean the sliders that the pads slide on and check/remove the carrier pins if necessary without stripping the caliper down. This would be my first check which worked a treat for my wife's ep3, Mine was a different issue and...

If your replacing your pads you'll almost definitely need to wind the caliper back. You'll also need one or some improvised method if your planning on stripping the whole caliper and removing the piston. I would do that as a last resort though. Before that, I would just remove pads, clean up...

My EP3 CTR is an 05 version and has began making a strange noise while decelerating. This sound is mainly audible in 2nd gear and is like a very light grinding noise. There is no judder or crunching while this is happening, everything seems nice and smooth its just the sound coming from below...

Yes, both my wife's and mine are pretty noisy in reverse. Think it's normal.

I'd be cautious personally as wouldn't be happy that there are no stamps. I would also expect them to know about the big service too if it had been serviced to schedule.

I'm a tad late to this post but agree with what others have said. You can never be certain with any purchase, however documented history with lots of receipts is generally a good sign. Higher miles is not necessarily a bad thing as it may mean that parts have been replaced that are due to be...

First thing would definitely be to clean every thing and re-grease before stripping caliper down. I'd be inclined to clean and put back together then test for wheel drag, operation etc, you should get an idea then. I've just replaced a rear caliper on mine with one from a breakers. Before...

Sounds identical to when my wife's ep3 needed a new clutch. Replaced with oem clutch and was fine afterwards with biting point high again. Never touched master cylinder.

cheers

Ok, thanks for the info! I'm hoping it's the piston so that I can refurb mine, then replace and refurb the one's I've ordered to keep as spares. My wife's ep3 still has original calipers on the rear and it's on 140000+ now so assume they will need done soon. Thanks again!

Yep, sounds like BS to me.

The repeater issue sounds like a dodgy connection. Although there are a number of heat shields, I assume they are talking about the one that is attached to the cat (by 4 bolts suspiciously). Mine has been removed (by Honda as it happens) for a number of years with no issues. (There is a heat...

cheers Lewis, only asked as my wifes vxr never seemed any different, no matter what the weather. mind you, I never really used it that much.

+1 My EP3 is also the same when cold, just need to take it easy until warm. Not sure about the fan though!

this thread has got me thinking about why some days they pull harder than others. Is it down to the highly tuned NA nature of them which is affected more by atmospheric influences than force induction?

Must admit, mine has felt that bit better the last week or so, almost as if the engine has loosened up a bit and gained a bit more power.

I thought that although they are self adjusting (being hydraulic etc) I'm sure there is some adjustment for pedal height. Not sure if that may possibly help? My EP3 is still on original clutch and can confirm that the biting point is definitely lower than my wife's which has had a new clutch.

you can jack the front up using the subframe from memory. There is an arrow marking the position if you look under the bumper. I used this to jack up and then had axle stands under the sill area as you mention. Again from memory, the hook can be used at the rear but you would need a high lift...

according to the manual that code is for Electrical load detector circuit high voltage. you could try a breakers

valve clearances from memory are every 25000, plugs 75000 according to the schedule. Mine had a slight hesitancy at low revs (below 2500rpm). Noticeable when you were pulling away slowly. It has not happened for the last few weeks since having a full service including plugs and valve clearances...

Could be number of things including TPS. but best check basic things first, i.e is it due a service, are the plugs, valve clearances due to be changed/checked?

Also, did you run a bit of the clean oil around the filter seal before fitting?

Glad you got it sorted:)

My wife purchased one from ebay so it may be worth a search (although it was quite pricey).

seems fair price to me!

Hello and welcome. Class reg!, number of the beast!:)

Hello and welcome. Sounds like you got a good one there!:)

I am not saying they would definitely be the cause but if they are due to be checked and adjusted it may be worth doing before carrying out further trouble shooting if you have already fully serviced and changed plugs, air filter etc. Mine were due to be adjusted! When were yours last adjusted...

was thinking more of water seeping in past scuttle (since fitting) when standing on drive?

Is the tegiwa M the one where you cut the scuttle to fit it. Just a wild stab in the dark but if so, could water be getting in? Is your drive parked on a slope? again a wild stab in the dark but if it is, it may be a reason why you were ok at the shop?

Mine was completely random too. Sometimes it didn't happen days on end. May be worth doing valve clearance just to rule them out

Must admit that the rust problem was what made me buy another ep3 instead of the fn2. I was looking at 59 plates and upwards which were supposed to have the new softer rubber to alleviate the problem but I gave up after seeing a number of cars with either rust, or a lip in the paint where the...

If the disks are worn to the point that there is a definite lip around the edges (can be felt with your nail) then the pads can get "dragged" about when driving normally, and can sound dreadful. The fact your getting strong smells may point more to a binding caliper although I wouldn't expect it...

forgot to say that it did start after driving for a while, ie when the disks started to heat up.

The last time I experienced that kind of noise, it was due to the disks being worn and the pads were vibrating like hell. It did feel like something was about to be left in the road behind me. Does it change at all when you apply the breaks? Also had a caliper binding but that just caused...

cheers EP3 Pete, will do! As I say, we,ve always used the supplying dealer from new (using oem parts) but her car's done over 140000 miles now so can't justify £1200. It's also driving perfect (except for the slight rattle) so don't know how soon/whether it will need changed but just want to...

Thanks for the advice guys, it's really appreciated! and thanks very much for the offer EP3 Pete, I may take you up on that.:) I'll check things out further as I must admit I just took their word at the time but being in the North East, I am not aware of any local specialists. I will give TGM a...

Hello All. I am after a little advice if anybody can help please. My wife's EP3's engine light came on 4 days ago which, according to the code reader, was down to the secondary o2 sensor. I reset the code and it has not came back on. Approx 8 months ago, Honda diagnosed a slight rattle as...

Lovely!!

Ahh ok, thanks for the reply l3nny.

L3nny Apologies for hijacking but did you get sorted, as my wife's ep3's engine light has just came on and the cat has been rattling for a while now. Arranging a code reader to check today but looking for ideas in preparation.

+1 to sounding like clutch problem. Although the point does tend to be low compared to a lot of cars, you should't be having problems getting into gear. Does it crunch or just feel notchy as notchyness can be a sign of old gearbox oil. If you start the car whilst in first gear with the clutch...

not sure if this will help, might try and remove mine at some point. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Wiper-Washer-Jet-Nozzle-Honda-Civic-3-5Door-2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006-/390674239622?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AHonda%7CModel%3ACivic&hash=item5af5ffd086

It is most likely to be limescale blocking the jet on the wiper arm. I have the same problem with mine, it can be clearly seen. Apparently, the "jet" piece itself can be pulled out of the arm. If you can get it out, soaking in hot water or vinegar may break down the limescale or the jet can be...

+1 to clutch. When mine was going, I noticed that if I started the car whilst in first gear with the clutch pressed fully, you could occasionally feel a little "jolt" signalling that it wasn't disengaging fully.

Just bought 2 re050's for £130 each at Hi-Q. When the rears needed renewing quickly a while ago I could only get re050's with the 88 v rating which from memory are rated for approx 143mph so just went for them. I assumed that the recommended rating is 84w due to the official top speed being 146mph.

Ahh, thought the sneeze caused the damage ;) Glad to here she's ok. And congratulations too!

Must have been SOME sneeze. As long as she's alright, that's the important thing.

+1 to clutch required

My wife's ep3 has been owned from new, approx 140000 mls, always used castrol edge 0w30. At a guess would say it uses 3-4l per 12500 miles but only rarely vteced.

Ah, that sounds different, presumably just the sensor though it that's the code.

I would expect a possibility of slight hesitation when fully cold until the engine starts reaching operating temperature, depending on how hard you accelerate. I would have said nothing to worry about if you didn't have the engine light on, but that obviously needs investigating.

Looks in lovely condition. do like the grill :)

there's a 10mm bolt that fixes the back of the bench to the body. It's about 1 third of the way (from memory) along from the left (beside where the seat belt buckle pops through from behind. Loosen that, then grab the front left of the bench, about 10 inches from the left and give it a quick...

+1 mine goes slightly above. Daft question, but it's not just the petrol pump/s you use being over sensitive and cutting off early?

just seen a post on a different forum suggesting primary o2 sensor

Knx-Wv2, not sure if it is the same as it's difficult to judge without hearing, but the description sounds like a noise that my wife's ep3 has done from new. Still does it now at close to 140,000 miles and 1 new clutch. Still drives perfectly though. They do make some strange noises, with the...

That's a good point re oil light. Does it also disappear immediately when the noise happens? If it's an intermittent problem and is linked to intermittent low oil pressure, then you may notice that the time taken for the light to go out increases in relation to when the fault occurs?