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There's a lime green factory colour, super rare though, I've only ever seen one before.

I'd say it's for the journalists as I've seen 4 driven on the roads immediately around the plant. (I work 1 mile away).

Passed a CW one just outside the factory yesterday on a 66 plate, that makes 3 i've seen, definitely a lot more impressive in the metal.

Haven't been overly keen on how this model looks up until now, but I've gotta say they look a hell of a lot meaner on the road!! I just passed 2 in convoy, a red and a blue with trade plates on as I was leaving work. (I work about half a mile from the Swindon factory).

Yes, i've used the 3M kit on my EP3 years ago, and the Autoglym kit on my S2000 and dads S-Type just the other week. Both kits brought the headlights up looking like new.

You can get these if you still want to use your aftermarket nuts: http://www.tegiwaimports.com/select-car/honda/ep/wheels/tegiwa-wheel-nut-conversion-washer-pack.html Also, if you're not too bothered about the locking wheel nut, you can get a genuine set of 20 for £36 from Tegiwa. It wouldn't...

If they're the KU39s they're not bad tyres, I've been running them for the last 3+ years and can't complain. Great tyre for the price.

I've never really had any problems with mine, back end has slipped out a little a few times but always been able to catch it.

I didn't have time to stop, it wasn't a choice...

Not entirely true, my EP3 hydrolocked when i came round a corner on a back road and was met immediately by flood water, it was about an inch or 2 below the door sill level. Saying that, i ran the AEM for 2 and a half years before that without any issues.

handbrake comes up too high, so yeah needs adjusting.

America also got the S2000 CR. :)

Already seen 4 of these driving around Swindon! 1 silver, 1 red and 2 black. The silver is by far the best colour i've seen so far.

drove past a silver/greyish one in Swindon a couple hours ago, looks a lot better in the metal!

I'm sure i spotted a red one in my mirror driving back into the Honda factory in Swindon on Monday. Wing looks huge, not too keen on the car itself though.

I had this issue a couple years ago and was told by Honda that the alarm continues to go off as long as the battery is low. I ended up changing the battery as mine had pretty much had it and it stopped alarming after that.

A new seal won't fix the rust that's already taken hold in the tailgate. If not repaired properly that is going to keep coming back/spread further, if it was me i would go with replacing the tailgate as others have suggested.

I don't know how well they're rated but there is a Comptech intake up for sale on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/S2000-Comptech-Cold-Air-Intake-with-sport-intake-filter-reusable-element-/121495483127?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c49b1f2f7

I've got a mate who is returning his S2K to standard to sell, interested in an Invidia Q300 or K2 Fully adjustable coilovers?

sounds perfect for a Mugen M20 FN2

Exactly what i was looking at getting done, knowing my luck i will have seized bolts! Car is looking awesome, making me miss mine! :(

Any decent exhaust shop can do it, i had mine done at Infinity Exhausts which is right next to the Bath junction of the M4. Their address is: Infinity Exhausts3 Dodington Spring Dodington Ash South Gloucestershire BS37 6RX I see you're in Gloucester, i live in Swindon so if you fancy having...

Lovely colour that! you should take a look at getting the 'UK exhaust mod' done, i found with mine that the standard exhaust is far too muted because of the twin loop backboxes. It's basically just a couple of bypass pipes to take out one of the loops on each one. Mine still sounds standard at...

Well i said i would get pictures of the new car and although a little late, here are a few. I didn't think i wouldn't be doing anything to it for a while, but already i have added a K&N intake and had the 'UK exhaust mod' done as it was far too quiet standard! [/URL][/IMG] [/URL][/IMG]...

215 on the rear?! no wonder it was trying to break free all the time, my S2K has 245 on the back and that's kicked out a few times. I have the same attitude as you though. I've had it nearly 2 months now, it's my first RWD, and I still don't go into corners with much speed for fear of c*cking...

must be a result of all the R&D they do on their products...oh wait!

Well on Monday driving home from work the engine finally went bang :( must have been some very slight internal damage caused by the water getting into the cylinders the month before and it took this long to cause real damage. I'm not sure putting a new engine in would really be worth it, so i'm...

About time for an update! Mods wise there has only been one change; I decided to go for the ABP Eibachs and get the geometry set up again. The car handles as it should again and looks much better! No pics of the car at the moment but i'll be sure to get some when its next cleaned. For the past...

This is mine on the pro kit, i've now replaced them with the ABP 30mm Eibachs so have the pro kit springs lying around at home if you're interested... http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?83063-mittanio-s-04-NHB-EP3&highlight=mittanio

Have you checked your ARB droplinks?

i'd put my money on it being you running a decat for a year and a half and not getting it mapped, not the fuel...

why not upgrade to the solid shifter bushes if you're going to be replacing them anyway?

just as easy yes, mine is an A/C model, i don't have any pics though.

Why are you rebuilding a perfectly fine engine with fsh? 93k is nothing on a K20!

i'm having ABP Eibachs put on today, replacing my 15 - 20mm Eibachs, so i'll have them for sale fairly soon if you're interested ;)

Yeah I'll be sticking with the facelift lights, I prefer them to the pre facelift ones

Cheers guys, I think it would look a lot better if it sat a little lower, it looks a lot more aggressive in the metal with the splitter, I know it won't be to everyone's taste! Bit of both really, I'll be giving it a service and hopefully that will make it feel a little smoother, i think the...

Cheers mate, I didn't get stopped at all for the plates until about a month ago when I got pulled twice in 2 days for the front 3/4 sized plate, so now I'm running JDM sized plates front and rear and no problems so far! Been a while since I've updated this, a few changes have been made: Seibon...

yeah it was a 360 spider, he brought it into work a few times :cool:

I'd check droplinks and track rod ends first

you'll need both lots to do them all, the energy inserts will be for the front and rear of the engine, the powerflex gearbox mount goes in the passenger side mount on top of the gearbox, surprisingly :lol:. You're going to get a lot more vibration in the cabin after fitting all of these!

yeah that's what i was leaning towards doing, just finding some bolts that fit. Seems a bit of a bodge but then again i guess it's to be expected with a replica! Thanks for the help guys.

cheers for the reply mate, not what i was getting at though! i had my spoiler off no problem, it has 4 studs that the nuts fasten onto, the Mugen rep i have has no studs in it at all, Sent a message to the guy i bought it off asking what he did when he removed it from his EP3

Just bought a Mugen replica spoiler off a guy on CTRO, came through today but has nothing to mount it onto the car with. I've seen people say before to use the bolts from the standard spoiler, if this is the case i have no idea how they're supposed to come out! Can anybody shed some light on...

i'm on 158k, put 50k on myself in the last 2 and a half years and the engine runs fine

Would probably be more helpful to others if you actually named this specialist if you're impressed with their work... ;)

This

sh*t sorry meant the top nut of the strut, my mistake. mine felt tight to me but Tom tightened it up more using the air wrench and the clunking was gone!

the top mounts can clunk from not being tightened up enough, when i was talking to Tom from TGM Motorsport he told me that there have been loads of occasions where that was the only problem.

there is no cambelt, the K20 uses a camchain which should be good for the life of the engine as long as its looked after (mine is on 155k). Some people like to get them replaced at 100k for peace of mind though.

i paid £97 for mine a couple of days ago from Tegiwa on ebay

sprayed my dash cosmic grey a year or so ago, gotta say you've made a much better job of it than i did, looks awesome!

Those wheels look great, i reckon they'd look awesome in white on your car but thats just me!

i try not to think about that too much, mine is nearing 155,000 miles! :lol: Not in bad condition though.

i have a spoon N1 mated to a supersprint unsilenced bpipe, it is properly loud but i have had no problems getting through MOT

i'm sure it won't happen again! :lol:

i gotta agree with NYA on this one. Stunning car though :cool:

do some digging and then the forum doesn't get clogged up with the same questions asked 100 times: http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?22186-Chipping-An-explanation-for-beginners

you're gonna do well here i can tell :lol:

too much sidewall for me personally. Great looking car though! :cool:

there is a search feature for a reason ;)

Those wheels offend me :lol: But it's your car the only opinion that matters is your own! :)

Had you gone into vtec at any point before on that drive? Did you wash the car before? Saying this because when i wash mine my filter gets a little damp, it completely chokes the car when you try and engage vtec for the first time, its completely fine if you just give it a while after though...

Well it's been a while since i've updated this, not a great deal has been done since really. Went to TGM to fit SPC camber arms, Eibach camber bolts and replace 2 of the engine mounts, opted to get an insert fitted into the front mount too. In the process I found that I had Eibach Pro Kit...

i passed mine no problem with the same system only my center section is a Supersprint unsilenced.

There's a key hole on the bootlid isn't there? just right of the red H badge?

You haven't mentioned what car it is but i reckon this should be what you're after, although it mentions different sizes so you may have to give them a ring so they can confirm. http://www.hendyperformance.co.uk/product/Genuine_honda_12mm_washer_9410912000

No I didn't use a hydroshield just left it as it is, in my opinion it is completely fine as long as you don't drive through stupidly deep water, i wouldn't worry at all mate.

this thread makes me sad

No its not that at all, i've driven in all conditions with mine, its my daily drive and like i said i have done over 40,000 miles in it in the last 2 years, people hear of stories where hydrolock occurs and all of a sudden they are scared to drive through small puddles! it is scaremongering...

Exactly this! and to the comment about the guy being caught out, if the weather is severe enough that there would be water deep enough to cause hydrolock and you have an AEM CAI, perhaps it would be a good idea to drive to what you can see

funny, i've done over 40,000 miles in the last 2 years with mine and i've had no problems whatsoever....

it was just 2 little bits of tape holding the center badge down on mine. apart from those bits of tape the badge was completely loose, like baldydave said most likely so you can line it up and stick it down, i know it's 100% fake but it's made from Alli, looks alright and does what an oil cap...

exactly the same as the one i got the other week :)

i thought he was referring to the S2000 clocks?

leave it to the saxos ;)

are you serious? Tegiwa are clearly advising him on engine oil there hence why they're also mentioning the oil filter...

i use vegetable oil in my gearbox, i'm an ex Honda mechanic

yeah i don't do much really other than work! also refuse to go to any meets until i've got my car how i want it :lol:

if it had an offset front plate it was likely me! good build so far man, glad you got rid of those rims :lol:

Tom are you still looking to upgrade your driveshafts? just noticed there are some for sale on CTRO :)

:lol:

isn't it auxiliary?

yeah! sourced a bracket and pulley off someone who was breaking their car, and did the work myself, it's a really simple job. oh i forgot the cost of the belt too, was around £80 altogether then, still quite a difference!

holy f*ck i can't believe you paid that much for that! :eek: Mine went on my EP3, i sourced and replaced it for around £60

no its the one a bit further back and lower, easy to spot its the closest smooth pulley to the top of the engine (the back of the belt is in contact with it rather than the ribbed side)

when i did mine i couldn't get a socket on there as there wasn't enough space, using 2 ring spanners looped is the easiest way i find, 13mm iirc

Hendyeshop, £5.89 :) http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?72345-**Tell-me-what-Genuine-Honda-parts-you-want**&p=1117038&viewfull=1#post1117038

Very nice mate, agree with the comments about the wrap needing to go though! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dc5-Mugen-carbon-spoiler-/181058982892?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a27f4d3ec ;)

i've had it on since i've had the car (2 years) which is used as a daily, been through some of the worst rain i've ever seen with it and it's been fine, its only really if you submerge the filter that you'll be in trouble! just don't drive through deep water and you'll be fine! :)

i have this and although i haven't yet sorted it i did try replacing the rack and that didn't cure it

one came up on CTRO about 30 mins ago, going for £280

completely normal, if you leave the car idling for a while the EPS light will come on, as soon as you move the car it will go off. Not sure on the reasoning for it but i always thought it was because there have been no steering inputs for a period of time and the car is stationary there is no...

it will turn off the EML but the engine will be running lean. The way i see it is either spend the money and do it properly or don't do it at all!

It's a little tricky at the moment as i'm working nights so i don't really see daylight! :lol: I just had a go at taking a couple pics on my iPhone while at work but they're not very clear, if i get a chance to take some decent ones i will put them up. Also my grill is in need of being done...

sorry man i don't, yeah that's what i went for, the red edge is a bit too much i think.

http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?84448-modded-front-grill

there was a thread a little while ago where someone was attempting something like this. Mine is colour coded in NHB it looks much better IMO.

they're feeler gauges mate