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Braided brake line split.

Will be the pads. You put any copper grease on the back of the pads?

That's a bit of an incorrect statement. Feature wise yes, performance... well that's down to the driver. No one in this thread said that the Meister coilovers are not up to the job, but that based on opinion we would rather use something else. Meister have exploited a gap in the market for a...

Unless you were a part of the calibration team you'll never know, so just stick to what the owners manual states. My interpretation is that it was setup using 95 RON fuel as that is what the UK / EU market offers, Honda can't guarentee that every buyer will use higher octane even if they did...

Yes that's the ones, the V2's are both height and damping adjustable (rebound & bump on the same knob). In terms of adjustable top mounts, then these ones: http://dvrace.com/caster/

I'd save another couple of hundred and get Bilstein's or KW's personally. The quality compared with the ones you mentioned are in a different league. Yes they don't come with camber adjustable top mounts, but you can buy aftermarket later down the line, and it also saves you buying coilovers...

Yep mine does this, only does it at high revs though, I'd say 5k + I don't know what it is, but I do plan on getting my box rebuild at some point, so as long as it works till then, I'm happy.

I would look at replacing the auto tensioner pulley as well, I made that mistake in thinking it was the idler, it was in fact bearing movement in the tensioner pulley.

You are more likely to get more power using Tesco Momentum Vs Shell V-Power as it has a higher Ethanol content, downside to this is that it will use more of it because of the additional Oxygen present in combustion.

Cool mate I'll keep an eye out! Not been to Mallory before, be my first time there, done a few other trackdays before. Mallory looks like a power circuit though but will be good to tick off the track list :)

Bridgestone RE050A

Yep I'll be there, Cosmic grey ep3. Come say Hi if you see me about :)

A doddle if you have an angle grinder :)

I've not tried the RC6 mate. They are pretty much a race pad though. Two reasons why I switched to Carbotech XP8 was because I didn't like the dust the CL's gave off and they stained 2 sets of my wheels ( I tend to clean every two weeks ), and secondly I wanted to try something different. I...

I had them on when I first bought my EP3, didn't like the way they felt and I've heard across many forums that they leave deposits. Luckily enough for me they were fairly worn and replaced them before I had a chance to really test them out on track. Maybe you should read the title of the...

CL RC5+ will set you right! Best pads I've ever used. I'm using Carbotech XP8's at the moment, they don't seem to have the same initial bite as the CL's, and need some heat to get them to work, but I'll see how I get on with them on track. Get used to cleaning your wheels though!

Check this out, you'll need to register to see pics http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10278 You can get a vented catch can, then connect both the PCV and the breather on the valve cover to it as well.

That's the PCV valve, you could vent it into a catch can.

Easiest way is to remove the rack mate. 2 bolts on steering coloumn joint 2 bolts holding the electric motor on the rack 2 nuts holding the rack to the body Pull rack out passenger wheel arch unbend the washers that go over the steering arm bracket Take 2 adjustable wrenches, size on for the...

Erm I've probably done not far off 20k miles on them. I got mine from ebay, no issues.

Yep I got Meyle HD drop links, they come with a good warranty as well.

Things I would recommend: Rear Camber arms Roll centre adjusters SuperPro castor increase bushes (or polybushes all round) Rack Raiser Rear anti roll bar (JDM, Progress or similar) Modified steering arms (If planning on tracking the car and needing more than 1.75 degrees of camber) You don't...

Essentially what it will do is reduce the body roll (if you're already lowered without the adjusters). They just shift the roll centre back to where it's more natural in the vehicle, and because of moving the roll centre back closer to the centre of gravity, this reduces roll as that's where a...

I'll give my brief view on the FK2 after approx 20 min drive. The chassis felt great, point to point cornering was brilliant. The gearbox was as slick as ever like the typical Honda's. The steering was responsive, and felt a bit more weighted compared to a stock EP3 and provided more feedback...

The 3" bore is tapered to 2.5" to meet the manifold. Unless you specify for a full 3" system to meet a 3" manifold, but there isn't any 3" manifolds, unless their custom. I think 3" is overkill on the manifold.

A lot of people get caught up with so called "uprated pads", unfortunately you don't get nothing for free in this world. By uprated, meaning they will be more resistant to fade at higher temperatures, but conveniently you will also need to get heat in them for them to work at their operating...

Yeah SuperPro do them :) Wothwhile upgrade for sure.

Yes that's the correct one mate, parts are shared between both cars like induction kits, exhaust manifolds etc. Some kits are close to the radiator hose, I would suggest try wrapping something round it.

HKS could be an option mate. Trouble I find is that most backboxes are around the £300 mark, for an extra £100-£200 you can have a full system, or pick up a second hand full system.

If you got bit more of a budget, you could give Alan @ SolidFab a call, he'll make you a custom backbox with the dolphin stlye tip, I'd say it'll probably be around £300ish. Or you could just get one of his full systems with your choice of tip :)

No you won't be able to, the tip is burnt until it turns that blue colour. You could always ask the supplier if they can do one without a burnt tip, but I wouldn't be sure they would do it.

Agree with Loxy, but depending how heavy you are on the brakes, you might find you'll overheat the DS2500 pads and leave deposits on the discs (track conditions), in which case you'll need something a bit beefier like Carbotech, Carbone Lorraine, DS3000 etc.

Got to say, I'm probably one of very few who aren't a fan of the FD2, but this looks amazing! Credit to ya Dave, some cracking parts going on this car :)

I've got them on mine, in all honesty I can't say that they made the car "feel" any different because I put them on at the same time as a full suspension overhaul, including coilovers, polybushes, roll bar etc. The theory behind them is there though. For reference I've got the Buddyclub ones :)

Couple of people have used them, and most use them in Civic Cup. Another option, if you have Hondata ECU, you can get the EML to flash, although personally that would worry me in case anything was actually wrong lol.

What power are you running? I'd say stick with an OEM clutch, not had experience with CC products, but I would have said a Fidanza flywheel, you can replace the friction face on them as well. There also one of the lightest.

Drag Cartel or Kelford's. If you're chasing numbers, you bought the wrong car.

If you want good brakes, and save money. Get yourself some Carbone Lorraine, Carbotech or Performance Friction pads. Also remember, the car will only stop as good as the grip of the tyres.

Make sure your fluids are topped up. You have good meat on the brakes Check the oil level throughout the day, take spare and top up if needed Make sure your tyres have plenty of meat, especially if you're using the same tyres to drive home on. You don't want to get caught below the legal tread...

Should be alright, might need a bit of camber to stop it rubbing the arch at stock ride height. As Jimbo said though, best off with 205 or 215.

Another thing to consider is that the Skunk manifold, and most likely the M2, like the motor to be revved out, and make peak power further up the rev range. Ideal if you plan on going cams, valve springs etc.

There's FL Performance in London SE26 5AY, or if you don't mind travelling then TGM in Fleet (who I use sometimes) GU51 2RS.

I don't really know the ins and outs, but you can still datalog, but just not for as long. The Kpro V4 has a faster chip, has flex fuel and bluetooth, it also has some protection parameters like lean situations, overboost, low oil pressure etc, but that'll all come with the cost of adding extra...

No problem mate, shouldn't take no more than an hours labour either really. Where abouts in the country are you? There's some good Honda specialists up and down the country that will be able to look after you.

Unless you're driving a KitKat wrapper, a strut brace don't make any difference. Honda's chassis are already pretty rigid, I'd spend the money elsewhere. A JDM front roll bar is the same, it's just a slightly different shape to accomodate a different exhaust manifold that JDM models use.

Tbh depending on what you plan on doing, I wouldn't worry too much about which version you have.

That is the auxiliary belt tensioner pulley. On Lings they are £44.62. Tegiwa also do them: http://www.tegiwaimports.com/select-car/honda/ep/engine-parts-oe/genuine-honda-auto-tensioner-pulley-civic-type-r-k20a.html Jap Service Parts also do them...

Think its a later version 2.

Open it up, what colour is the circuit board? Kpro 1 and 2 were both green boards, Kpro 3 is red Kpro 4 is white If its green should be a serial number on the board which will tell what version it is.

Depending on condition, anywhere between 380-650, how quck of a sale your after etc. Most I've seen priced around the 450-550 mark though, couple of people on ebay tend to stick them up a little higher.

It might be that the TPS needs scaling, I've seen this crop up from time to time on the Hondata forum.

You got Grinspeed and TDI North not too far from you if you choose not to tackle it for yourself.

Where abouts in the country are you?

No idea mate, I don't think many people buy them tbh, most people go with the Stoptech kits, which the calipers are ST40, or you could try getting hold of some AP CP5200 calipers, but their rare.

I would recommend the Goodridge braided lines, I've heard some bad stories about the quality of the Hel lines, just to be on the safe side.

Their different I believe, I think the BBK ones are radial mounted not lug mounted. Regarding discs, you could try TGM. Or you could try AP Racing, Hi Spec, and even MTEC are now offering 2-piece floating discs.

The 27mm is the front bar, the biggest I think they offer at the rear is a 24mm.

I've heard the Ferodo DS2500, which I guess is what you're referring to are quite dusty (not used them myself), but another one for the mix could be the Project Mu HC800 pads. The braided lines make a very good difference, when normally you press hard on the brake it will feel quite spongey...

The only person I know who has larger than the Progress 24mm bar is Doug, not sure if he's on here or not. Even then I don't think he's driven the car yet either so not sure if he could tell you the performance of it. You won't be disappointed with a Progress or Tegiwa 24mm bar. I think the...

I'm not too clued up on the install of them, but could it be that the studs which also hold the cam caps on, and the top chain guard are not tightened down, and hence just spinning?

7.2 lbf/ft or 9.8 Nm. Chances are you've probably stripped the thread on the stud. They are a pain and happens often.

I think their out of stock everywhere at the moment mate, no idea what's going on.

It depends how mechanically minded you are. It's not difficult at all, but is time consuming. The subframe needs lowered/ dropped, and you'll need a geometry setup after as well.

Have you got any pictures mate? Seems kinda odd to me that they would sell their own manifold design, then recommend others like the Toda, Japspeed etc. Would be interesting to find out why they stopped, unless you know Loxy? Was it like a profit margin thing, or just a case of loads of other...

So 7 is the front mount which is bolted to the subframe. 4 is the top engine mount 1 is the upper side gearbox mount 2 is the lower gearbox mount Hope that helps.

Thought they only did turbo manifolds?

Roll cage would be my number 1, not only will it add rigidity but safety and possibly the best like £900-1500 you could hope not need the use of. Then it would be anti roll bars. From my experience strut braces make little difference. I've never used Ultra Racing products but I know they do a...

Anyone of those headers you mentioned will do the job, but if you're chasing every last drop of power then consider something like an ASP, Hytech, SSR header. Originate from the States and they do custom made to your engine specs, don't expect to get much change from £1200 though. The buddyclub...

SW do pretty much all of the Civic Cup cars , so yeah their good! :)

Sorry I may have misread what you were asking, or you misunderstood what I ment. Regarding the throttle body alone, they only give a few peak hp on top of the other bolt on mods, hence why I said their not great in terms of bhp per £ spent, a new (good brand) 70mm TB looking at £300 ish, it's...

You'd gain a couple of hp with a 70mm throttle body, but bhp per £ their not great.

The discs are the same size ( 300 x 25mm ), they just have a different offset. You'll need new brackets if you want to change the discs to anything other than 300mm.

Common problem is the idler pulley or auto tensioner pulley on the auxiliary belt. They tend to make more of a grinding noise though I'm led to believe.

Their designed to increase the oil pressure slightly. Yes surface area isn't as large as other filters, but stick to the maintenance schedule and there's no issue's.

Hybrid Racing, doesn't need an adaptor plate ;)

I would check the temps first, oil too cold is just as bad as oil too hot.

I run them, very good for the price and operate at a wide range of temperatures and pressures. Not brilliant in the wet, but what semi slick is, just have to change driving style. You might find you'll have to run a fair amount of negative camber up front to keep the tyre operating on the...

You can get both types. A Clockwise Motion drop in baffle, or you can get welded in plates. I run a Clockwise baffle, as do many others, drop straight in, fitment is great, quality is great and works.

That's what I ment by over rev ;) If you only plan on doing a couple of days a year, then yes you can get away with overfilling the oil slightly as to some people the cost of buying a baffled sump and fitting is kinda negated by the little track use. However it's always recommended as it's...

When you say your mate blew the engine, what exactly happened? There's a few fundamentals you have to take note of when tracking a car. 1. Ensure oil is on max mark, with EP3's if you run semi-slicks fit a baffled sump. 2. Don't over rev the motor.

The Eibach/SPC arms come with a nut mate. Others I can't confirm.

When I was talking to Maz @ HondR a little while ago, he was saying that changing OEM to Progress front roll bar made a big difference and gave great sharp turn in. It's one of those things that's an individual's preference. I took the front roll bar off my old car, made it better handling...

ITG gets fairly good gains. From what I've heard Mugen is only a little better than OEM, but comes with a JDM scene tax. What is it you're after? Power, bit more noise?

I was going to mention the cigarette thing, or E cigs as they give of plenty of vapour :lol: It's not a brake fluid leak you have, assuming the fluid level is fine on the master cylinder reseviour. Deffinately check the servo for operation by doing what Eddie said with starting the engine. I...

I understand that they cost money, everything does. There's 4 other people in this thread, including myself which have mentioned the rubber regarding your issue, "Just feels like it don't grip on the road", the only thing that keeps the vehicle in contact with the road is the tyres, things like...

Why can't you ditch the tyres?

If the engine tone changes that's fine. The vacuum line, just look at the servo, there's only 1 hose that comes off it, it will go to the inlet manifold. It shouldn't have any T-pieces or joins etc. If you want to test to see if its split, get some washing up liquid and water in a spray bottle...

Ditch the tyres and spend some money on an LSD, will make a world of difference.

No it's not just for FI, there are many people running 3" systems on N/A and get good power. Back to back dyno testing has proved there is gains to be had, even Toda Vs TDI 3" there's quite a bit of difference in power.

I run the RBF 660 on road and track, not had a single problem. Got mine from JJC race & rally on ebay they had it on special. If you want something a little cheaper, try some ATE Type 200, but you'll likely need to change it out after being on track, although I never got any fade, I did find...

Power I'd say go for 3" exhaust system and something like a cold air intake, although have seen some V2's make fairly good power!

You can get the Pagid RS29 for S2000, not sure if RS42's are available for that caliper.

Worth removing the panel just above the pedals and greasing up the UJ thats splined onto the column and the motor.

What is it you're after, noise, power?

The EP3 and S2000 share the same pad, and I know Pagid do some of the RS series for S2000, so worth a look at some S2000 pads :)

Double check the vacuum line that goes to the servo and make sure that's not split. When you turn the steering wheel (without pressing the brake and stationary) does the engine rev up a little? It should rev slightly as it's under more load.

Make sure that quotes including geometry setup as well, since the subframe needs moving out the way.

Another vote for TGM. I'm sure Eurospec will be able to do it as well, they are located in Guildford.

Good to hear, it is a squeeze, but being brave and putting a bit of muscle behind it, it will come :lol:

In hindsight I think it will be easier to have a "race manifold" and then retro fit a cat into the exhaust system itself.