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Just had a really good quote from Ian at Chris Knott who have smashed my renewal quote and beat off all other competitors also. Had my policy documents through via email not long after I paid over the phone (no charge for using a CC either!). So far I'm really impressed with the service :)...

I've put 6.5" speakers in mine, as do most people. Get some MDF baffles from ebay like these to mount them on. You will need slim fit speakers otherwise the back will get in the way of the window when it is down, look for something with a mounting depth of less than 60mm. Also when fitting the...

My front N/S caliper started sticking a few weeks ago, I just swapped it for a refurbished one. Cost me £80 after taking the old one back. You will also need a couple of washers for the brake hose. I got mine from Honda but they are very expensive for what they are. In hindsight I could probably...

I've got apex springs on my CTR, I like them. If you get a generic standard spring it will match the rest of the springs no problem, I've done this before on other cars. If you want to swap all the springs its going to cost you even more in labour to fit them and then wheel alignment as well.

I'd like this as well, something like: Scotland, Wales, North, South, Midlands. We don't need too many sections or it will just become messy with only a couple of threads in each one. Another idea would be to have a prefix for threads started in the Future Meets section & whoever starts the...

No worries mate, glad you got it sorted without having to spend big money on it.

+1 Its the best colour for SS IMO

No worries, good luck.

If the Honda alarm is anything like any after market alarm, all the wires will be black anyway and you wont be able to tell them apart. You are better off going to a qualified fitter.

I don't know, as they are two completely different alarms. Best bet would be to contact Hamilton & Palmer for some advice or take it to a Honda dealers. Click for H & P

In that case you have the Hamliton & Palmer alarm and everything I've said is irrelevant to you as my car has the Honda alarm. Sorry I cant help

When you look at the key fob after taking the cover off, the positive should be facing you. There is a positive marking on the inside of the cover. When I said the battery running down I meant the car battery not the key fob battery.

When I took mine to the dealers they said the remote entry receiver is faulty and needs to be changed. Part number is 38385-S7A-305 (this is a new part number, previously this part was known as 38385-S7A-G01)

I had a similar problem mate, its not good news unfortunately. Sounds like your key fob receiver has failed, this seems to be a common problem when the battery is allowed to run down. You will have to buy a new alarm receiver module from Honda, they are about £170 IIRC, dead easy to fit though...

Double check your wiring kit, if it is 10 gauge that's a bit thin really, I would never use anything less than 8 gauge and really I prefer to fit 4 gauge as it gives you a bit of leeway if you upgrade in the future. The level depends on the voltage of the pre-outs on your head unit. What model...

Google for an instruction manual, they are usually available to download. 99% of the time it is a blue cable but sometimes you get one that's different just to be a bugger.

Both are correct, the amp won't power up until it gets a feed from the remote cable when the head unit is switched on. Also you should have a fuse as close to the battery as possible, even though the amp will have its own fuses.

I wouldn't bother with those, just cut the plugs off and crimp some connectors of your own on. Leave a bit of wire on the plugs so you can crimp connectors on to them as well & if you ever want to go back to standard speakers you can just plug them back in. If you are using an amp I would...

Stock speakers are 6" but 6.5" after market speakers will fit. The standard speakers are clipped in and pretty easy to remove. Just push the clip at the top down with a screwdriver and pull the speaker forward from the top like in the picture.

Depends on which tyres are fitted and how much tread is left on them.

No worries mate and I'll remember the stickers hopefully!

See THIS thread for some other maps you can try (at your own risk). I still think the best value for money intake is the AEM CAI, get one of those & get yours mapped for some proper power increases.

You could keep the back box and use a Supersprint or Spoon B pipe which will be less restrictive than the standard system but still not be too loud.

Yeah today is probably not the best day to start fitting them :lol: Save them for a quiet weekend, if you ever get one! Good luck with the birth.

Alpine are normally quite good. A pair for £10 is a bargain! I would be tempted to fit them to see what they are like, nothing to lose really.

Glad you got it sorted. Which amps did you buy? So long as they are half decent quality you should get a noticeable improvement in sound from them. Whether you fit the amps or not I'd also invest in some sound deadening if you don't already have some fitted.

You can get an add on module from ebay that will give you auto up & down on both windows. Something like THIS

Drivers side window is one touch down.

I would strongly recommend replacing all the speaker cables. If the boot is off limits you are going to have to find a place for an amp to run your front speakers, possibly under the front passenger seat.

Don't forget to include cables and sound deadening into your budget. Sound deadening especially can make a huge difference to the quality of sound you get from your speakers. What I have in my car is a decent head unit, component speakers in the front and a sub in the boot all powered from one...

That is strange! There is no fuse between the head unit and the speakers. I would start checking the wiring at the head unit end and the speaker end. Also maybe the speakers are shorting out on the door?

I think it also depends on how much life is left in your tyres, if you have only 2mm left on the rear and put new tyres on the front then you are asking for trouble with the mismatch in grip levels on the car. If you change your tyres before the 1.6mm legal limit then you shouldn't have too much...

Engine light might be one of the lambda sensors, which would explain your poor fuel economy. Ask the garage to tell you what the fault code is or take the car to a reputable garage and get them to tell you the fault code.

Are you sure you don't have it on mute or anything? Loosing sounds from all four speakers would make me think it is something head unit related. Are the speakers powered by an amp?

Its not on an EP3 ;) EDIT: Neil this thread would be very helpful if the pictures still worked!

I've had this problem on a different car as well. Its the most likely reason for the leak. Alloys can go porous but I've never had that happen to me and I've had some seriously old wheels. Also if the wheels are buckled then the bead wont form a proper seal and that can cause leaks as well.

I hate their adverts with a passion but they did actually save me over £200 when insuring the 306. Worth having a look if you are insuring a run around car that doesn't need specialist insurance.

It just pulls apart. Careful though or the clips might break.

I've had Apex springs on my car the last few years, I'm pleased with them. Some pics...

If I had the cash I would be tempted with a yellow wrap for the CTR. I just love that colour on the Civic.

Just got a renewal price for my 306 diesel, £100 more than what I pay on the CTR! Insurance is turning into a joke.

Splumph! Looks excellent in yellow.

Well done, and pics of the yellow EP3 please!

Al is right, the stereo should still work even if one of the speakers is disconnected.

No worries mate.

So long as the weather holds out on Saturday its all go. I wont have time to do them from start to finish but I'll get you started so you can finish them off in your own time afterwards.

I wouldn't advise cutting up the loom in the car. Get an ISO connector block for the civic and then you can strip the wires on the connector block to wire up the headunit.

They are both 6.5"/17cm front and rear but they are quite shallow. Check the mounting depth of your chosen speakers before you buy, ideally you want something around 50mm or at a push 60mm, anything larger and you will have difficulties fitting it in. You will also need some MFD baffles for the...

Unplug the rear speakers and extend the wires for those to reach the 6x9s. I take it you don't have any amplifiers?

25th June should be ok, PM closer to the time and I'll sort you out with some directions. I dont think I've got enough rolls of electrical wire to do the whole job but whatever we need we can get from the local motor spares.

Cant do this weekend as I have plans but maybe next weekend. You will need quite a few rolls of differently coloured wires. I might have a few rolls at home which we can use, I just want a couple of quid to cover what they cost me or you can bring your own, its up to you.

If you come to my house one weekend, I'll help you get started mate. Just need some good weather!

Come to JAE, your services will be required ;)

Yes its possible, I've had it done on my car. Click HERE for a list of parts you will need. All are available from Honda although you might want to buy the headlights second hand to save money. You will need to sort out the wiring, I'm sure there is a guide for that somewhere although I cant...

I think it was Seat Ibiza IIRC, was quite a few years ago now.

I met a guy from talk audio once who had two 8s in a ported box, was pretty impressive. It should be enough to give you a "fuller" sounding system.

January three months ago, according to the girl I spoke to. Turns out my renewal isn't too bad so I will be sticking with A Plan for another year.

She said January on the phone. Now I'm frantically calling insurance companies while a head full of cold trying to get a decent quote before my renewal tomorrow.

This is a stupid law. Just had it all explained to me by my insurance company as I didn't want to insure the civic till before Japfest in May. The car is taxed and on private land but I still have to insure it to stay legal. Not impressed at all :(

Have you got the copy of the wiring instructions that I gave you? If not I'm sure I scanned them before I sold them to you, I'll have to have a look on my desktop at home. It should be a straight forward job, you connect one wire from the oil pressure sender to the oil pressure gauge and the...

Are these the ones you bought off me matey?

I disagree, after a FRSU I took off my J's strut brace for a few weeks and the front felt noticeably less sharp on turn in. Also the standard strut brace is too low down to hold the suspension turrets adequately. Adding something like the J's strut brace will make a noticeable difference.

This is good advice. I wouldn't bother with rear speakers at all, waste of money. Mine are disconnected. What is your budget?

That looks very clean!

Pop round mine tomorrow mate, I'll sort it out for you.

Same here.

I give up!

Nope, not a share button, a like button.

Completely different, a like button will link up on your facebook page so you can share a thread with others.

Can we have one?

Any luck getting the premium down Neily? I'm dreading my renewal in April!

I know its too late now and I hope it doesn't happen to you again, but next time slightly warming up the paint (e.g. with a hair dryer) before you bend the panel will help avoid any cracking.

Insurance company is Zurich.

I'm trying to make a claim at the moment, the insurance company is making it as difficult and long winded as possible. They have undervalued my car by 20%. I have two policies as I own two cars and I pay over £1000 in premiums each year. I have over 8 years no claims bonus on each policy and in...

Very nice mate, suits the car much better.

No offence but those wheels were hardly very dirty in the first place. If you want a challenge or to impress me come clean my wheels :lol: ;)

Or, buy an amp with high level inputs.

This is mine lowered 35mm. I wouldn't want it any lower especially on standard shocks. I still sometimes scrape the exhaust on speed bumps even when I slow right down.

Is that after the rebuild?

Sounds like it might be an earth fault. Have you taken it out and had a look to make sure none of the loom from the stereo has rubbed on the cage.

I think you can order them at Honda if you have the part number. Maybe someone on here with a DC5 can help or try on the DC5 forum.

10/10 for effort mate, if it was me I would rather pay for a refurb than spend that much time and effort.

Its an easy job, 4 bolts to remove each seat, swap them over and put the bolts back. Dont forget to unplug the seatbelt warning sensor on the drivers side before you pull the seat out.

Is there any legal requirement regarding this? Or can you do as Rossy says and just contact your insurance company if you need proof of a previous insurance policy?

I keep all insurance related documents in a folder, each year I just add the next batch of policy documents into the folder and now I've got paperwork dating back from 2003 when I first bought the CTR. Do I legally need to keep all these or can I throw them away once the policy has expired...

Looks good with the bonnet, I agree with dave, a CF spoiler would go very well.

It was a few years ago when there were no spurious replacements available.

When doing this mod, 3 runs of wire will need to be installed. They are: Battery positive (+) to alternator - From the positive terminal on your battery to the alternator positive (+) post Engine block to chassis ground - From engine block to chasis. This is to strengthen the ground...

:( I got ripped at the dealers, paid over £100 when I replaced mine!

My lights still dim with the earthing kit, I think doing what audio peeps call "the big three" will be more beneficial tbh.

No idea then tbh, that's got me stumped!

What year is your car? That keyfob is from the earlier alarm Honda used (cant remember who made it now) which isn't compatible with Honda's own alarm system which was fitted to cars from 2003 onwards.

Squealing from the brakes usually means they need replacing. Its a feature of the pads to let you know that they have worn down.

If you want 6x9s I would get a stealth shelf and fit them in that.

I remember asking about these before, someone on the forum has got them but I cant remember who. They said they were ok for the price IIRC. EDIT HERE is the thread

I really like this, I think its going to be my look for 2011

I'd drive through that no problem with the AEM CAI. I wouldn't be worried because the actual filter sits around 10 inches off the ground, nowhere near that water, and it is protected by the OEM splash cover/wheel arch liner. The water isn't high enough to submerge the filter and the cover...

Even if you did what you are suggesting, you would still have the standard pre facelift interior. By the time you have changed all the different parts inside and out you will have spent more than the cost of a decent facelift car. False economy mate, just save a little longer.

They will be different on each side to get the geometry setup right. I've been in a CTR with superstreets before and that was quite harsh and crashy. Also you have the top mounts which will be even harder, dont forget standard shocks have rubber in the top mounts which give a more supple ride...

See HERE I jacked my car up when I did mine and used a second jack to hold the arm so it didn't fall out of place. If the arm moves it can be a pain lining it up again properly if you are working alone, a helper pulling or pushing the wheel helps a lot in that case.