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Yep I do... not sure what I'm doing with them just yet. I'm toying with idea of getting some CE28n's and using TD's for winter. If I do then you're welcome to have first dibs. Conditions wise, they're not too bad but could probably benefit from a refurb. Congratulations on your purchase btw...

Glad you're happy with it Jim.

I don't think it's the calibration John. I've tried both the factory kal and the dyno tuned kal that are on kmanager. Incidentally, I am using the latest version of kmanager and I am confident that i have uploaded the calibrations to the ECU correctly. I will have a look around the hondata...

I have recently obtained a used kpro unit. I have installed it and uploaded the PRA factory kal. The EML came on straight away, so I checked for a DTC code logged in kpro and it shows the P1108 code. I've had a search on here but can't find any info on it. So had a search on the web and from...

What makes you think it's not working properly?

The spoon and supersprint will be much of muchness volume wise. You are unlikely to get a true representation of loudness through listening to youtube vids. In all honesty whatever bpipe you use with a spoon n1 is going to be pretty loud. As you well know with an unsilenced it is mega loud.

I have the spoon n1 coupled with a supersprint silenced b pipe. Quite a subjective thing to answer, but for me. Its not overly loud when driving normally but loud when you want it to be I.e in VTEC. Does drone a bit on the motorway, but I can live with it.

Cheers Stoo. Going off the label it's a PRA which is what I'm after. :)

Pm replied James :) Hazz is correct in what he says.

£50 approx from Hendyeshop on here.

Sorry mate couldn't tell you. All I know is that when I had the P1298 and had the symptoms I described in that thread, swapping the ELD cured it and its been fine for 30k miles.

http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=75110 Part number and how to guide in above thread. :)

Have a good read of this thread. http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=22184

Hauke have you already got a fast road set up? You will get more benefit from this rather than strut braces.

Pre facelift inc. 30th Anniversary model-: Milano Red MR Nighthawk Black NHB Satin Silver SS Facelift inc. Premier Edition-: MR NHB SS Cosmic Grey CG JDM ep3-: Championship White CW

http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=21228

Thanks dotty, that bodes well. :)

Recently changed from Yoko Paradas to Neova AD08's. Whilst I've never had a problem with the Paradas. Found them to be predictable in all conditions provided you are driving to the road conditions. I've renewed them at least three times and have always seen about 15k out of the fronts. I've run...

I can't help with the other codes, but the p1298 relates to the electronic load detector. Which is located in the fuse box in the engine bay. If you search on here you will see part number and guides I have posted before. Unfortunatley I have no idea if it is the underlying problem that is...

Yep working properly for me as well. :)

See the Gruppe M sticky. The fitting is the same.

IIRC Honda state that it's not uncommon to use 1L of oil in 800 miles. It will vary from engine to engine (as shown by the posts in this thread). Was the oil level at maximum when you purchased the car? i.e. has it actually used a litre in 280 miles. Best advice I can give is to check it on a...

Yep still have the problem but only on big threads. Happens on both my devices. Not tried a reinstall yet, will give that a bash tonight.

Never heard about the handbrake thing :confused: As far as pads and discs go. You can't go far wrong with OEM discs, some uprated pads like Ferodo DS2500's or Cosworth Streetmasters and uprated fluid like RBF600.

Personally I would wait until the clutch needs doing, unless it's been done already. A large proportion of the cost will be in the labour, as it is a gearbox out job. As for which LSD, the choice is yours. For roads use I would look at helical one rather than a plate LSD. I went with the M...

A good indicator would be where vtec activates. On a mapped car I would expect vtec to come in earlier than a non mapped car on the standard ecu.

Welcome to the forum. Keep an eye on the for sale section for exhausts. I think there's a Spoon b-pipe up for sale at the moment, but other stuff comes up. You just have to be quick. :)

In that case, you will have to get in asap for the mot. Hope the car passes (you seem doubtful). Then take the certificate along with valid insurance to the post office (the old fashion way). I would absolutly not drive without valid tax/insurance/mot. Sods law you'll get caught.

The earliest date you can mot and the expiry date are different. I think you can mot a month before the expiry IIRC.

Hd wax is expensive but a little goes a long way. Aqua wax works great for a quick wax as the car doesn't need to be completely dry. I tend to hd wax every 2/3 months and use the aqua wax inbetween.

The Spoon is a lot louder that stock as a cat back. Imo its not excessively loud, but as stated this is subjective. Thats why I suggested swapping the b pipe out first as this would only be marginally louder than stock. IIRC Eight speed do the supersprint and hendyeshop are spoon distributors.

As Tom said change b pipe for 2.5". Won't be overly loud when driving normally. If its not loud enough for you could always add a spoon n1 at a later date. Personally I wouldn't bother with the bung. I run the n1 with a supersprint silenced b pipe, not overly loud imo but its kind of subjective.

5w40 is generally the one that people use. Fully Synthetic.

Cheers Dan, no not been dyno'd as I've really just got bolt ons at the moment. So I know power will be round about standard. Looking to get mani, rbc and kpro in next few months.

Yes you need an adaptor and yes there is a how to. A quick search should find it. :)

Just seen that you're in Leyland. If you need your car looking at, then give Stevie a ring at Grinspeed Motorsport in Leyland. He's a trader on here, a top guy and his prices are very,very good.

No worries. Not sure about your other code, maybe someone else on here has had experience of it. I know its something to do with emissions. Btw is your car standard? Found a bit online relating to an Accord and the advise that was given was to clear the code and see if it comes back. Not sure if...

Post what you are after in this thread and they will give you price delivered http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=72345

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYVWmQE5tDk http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?56897-How-To-Replace-ELD-(Electric-Load-Detector)-w-part-(P1298) I'm on the Fylde mate.

It's in the engine bay, don't let honda charge you for a complete fuse box as the part for some reason is not listed for a type r. I've replaced mine using the part number above and it's been fine. It's really easy to replace, there's a how to video somewhere. I'll post it up when I find it.

I know about the p1298 code. The eld is located inside the fusebox. The part is easy to replace and can be purchased for about £50 from Hendy (trader on here). I don't know about the other code and if it relates to the p1298 code. Typically the p1298 code will not trigger the eml, so it is...

I've never had the petrol warning light come on and the needle has been below the minimum. If the fuel is low then I fill up. No need to put your trust in a light imo. Ps. Hi Griff, good to see you posting again. :)

Okay in that case might be worth looking at something like the Spoon replacement airfilter. It obviously dearer than the standard oem filter, but its reusable. I would also research the Hondata airbox mod at the same time. There is a how to on here somewhere.

Welcome to forum. The topic has been well covered in this section of the forum. Have a good read of the stickies, as most of your questions will probably be answered in there. What type r do you drive and are you looking to just change the filter or go for an induction kit?

There's a group buy on here i think. Tegiwa do them as well ( the ones i got). Can be a little fiddly to fit i believe, but i wouldn't know as a i got Stevie to fit them. Otherwise they would have languished in the garage for the next 6 months.

Small update. Out with the old... In with the new... There is no way i would had parted with £50 or so that these badges are. I have a friend at Honda who very kindly managed to get it FOC. :) My ep3 was also in at Grinspeed last Tuesday for a few bits and bobs. Yet again Stevie's...

Btw I think Stevie at Grinspeed has got a deal going on an M Factory box with LSD and final drive. Might be worth a look. http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=82507

Has a dealer told you it a gearbox bearing that gone? Price seems expensive, granted it will mostly be labour. I had new clutch, new LSD supplied and fitted, as well as some bearings changed for not an awful lot more.

The car is obviously lowered, are there any more mods or is it relatively standard? Looks like it's been well looked after. :)

This thread maybe helpful for you. http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=72005 As for seized bolts, have you tried some good old WD40?

I found it most noticable when pulling away or coming to a stop. The noise was definitley a metallic rattle, it actually allowed a bit of movement in the exhaust as the b pipe was damaged and was replaced at the same time.

I had a split front mount which was causing a noise similar to what you describe, seeing as you have eliminated the usual suspects this would be the next most likely cause.

Have you checked your engine mounts?

Part number is 38255-s5a-003

Electronic load detector high input. If you search for that on here, you should see my posts with the part number. Can order through hendy (trader on here) should be about 50 quid.

Looks good, If you are planning to lower the car I would look at getting a Fast road setup up (FRSU) done. You will need front camber bolts and rear camber arms to do this but it will transform the handling. I was under the impression that simply lowering would put your geo out anyways. Welcome...

Great product, use it on guitar frets all the time.

ha ha, should have read your post properly. Yeah mate it'll be nice to have a chat.

That looks fantastic Jamie. I thought you might have had something in the pipeline, due to your post in another thread. Do you have any plans for her? Are you still coming down for this Southport meet? Would very much like to have good look around your new purchase. :)

If you have any noisy bearings, now is the time to get them changed.

Have you got the springs on as well Darren?

Yep totally normal

What oil is currently in your car? Best to use the same as whats already in if you are topping up.

S2000 is group 40, Jord.

Actually got the news today that I should have got an extra £500 in bonuses from over the christmas period, but they had indeed miscalculated the sales figures. Good job I check these things :) I'll take that if it means a bit more rain :)

It's actually less rattley, probably due to the fact that a couple of the OEM rubber bushes were perished, hence the need to replace them. I also have some comfort back as well, which is good. All I need now is it to stop bloody raining so I can properly test it out, been wet/damp since I had it...

Just had clutch and LSD fitted to mine along with the SuperPro front bush kit. Kept having to remind myself that it's pouring with rain on the way home just now, as the grip levels now are so reassuring. Suprised Stevie (Grinspeed) didn't get back to you. He's always quick to keep me informed...

Yep get the FRSU done and the springs fitted and the difference will be night and day. I would say your friend's dad is wrong unless of course your other tyres have no tread left.

Well I supplied the discs and exhaust mounts. The rest was supplied and fitted by Stevie. Obviously because the box is off it's worth getting as much done as possible. I would have uprated the fly wheel had funds allowed. A couple of the bushes on the O/S had perished so they needed replacing...

Next RBC and header with a bit of hondata thrown in. If I get my funding right hopefully I can time it with Mase's next UK visit. :)

Well a long overdue update, as I actually have something to update. Been spending a bit of money over recent months. I had the civic lowered on the Eibach Pro Kit and a FRSU done with DME rear camber arms and the Eibach front camber bolts. At the same time I got the front brake pads changed...

This thread my be of interest to you SeasideR. http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?75252-Aluminium-knobs./page3&highlight=griffiwa

+1 for the FRSU, best bang for buck mod. Car is progressing along nicely :)

Go to settings at the top. Then on the menu at the left hand side there is the option to edit avatar. I think the max size is 50kb. Car looks good in those pics BTW.

Skunk2 heavy billet gear knob to go with your short shifter and bushing kit.

Couple of ideas, have you lost any wheel weights. Poorly balanced wheels can cause vibration through the steering wheel. The plastic center on mine rattles but this due to having ES engine mount inserts, which do increase general cabin vibrations.

Grinspeed is in Leyland, just a blast down the end of the M65.

Have you checked your engine mounts. You can get rattles/vibrations if ones on the way out.

38255-S5A-003 Got mine through hendyshop.

I do one second mate I'll grab it for you. Did you get it read for fault codes? Was the p1298 present?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYVWmQE5tDk

I'm thinking what you describe could possibly be a problem with the electronic load detector circuit (ELD). It doesn't always trigger a CEL light but if you plug in a code reader it will read it a P1298 ELD High input. It sounds very similar to the symptoms I had. For example pulling up at...

Any fault codes?

Need to update this thread when i get a chance.

+1 with Sikboy. If you're on a budget consider a S/h Spoon N1 with a silenced Supersprint b pipe. Loud when you want it to be, but not when just pootling around town.

Yes, declare everything.

Coming along nicely mate :)

I think you a refering to an engine mount insert, this is worthwhile doing as it's a cheap mod that will reduce wheel hop. The only downside is that there will be some vibration in the cabin when idling. I've just got the front one in mine as the mount needed replacing so it was an ideal time to...

I have an 04 pre facelift.

Dirty idle control valve by the sounds of it. Take it out for a drive, let it warm up then give it a bout of right foot. That should clear it up. :)

The common causes of vibration/rattles on an ep3 are the drive shaft heat shield, the ivtec intake manifold cover and the front engine mount. These would be the first things to eliminate none of which are serious, however if it is the mount it's worth sorting sooner rather than later. Welcome...

Don't forget for full geo i.e. fast road setup you will need front camber bolts and rear camber arms. I could be wrong but I didn't see this in the ebay advert.

Welcom to the forum Daniel. You are absolutely right to want to change them wheels, they are truely awful. The lights are not too bad, but going back to PFL lights would be the way to go IMO. Keep an eye out for some OEM wheels in the for sale section. Happy motoring :)

http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?75110-Electronic-Load-Detector-Circuit-High-Input.&highlight=electronic+load

I think either will be fine. Just an observation but the tegiwa one says £36 for quantity 1 but does not mention how many is in the box. :) The price is right for four, but never assume. :D

Don't know what the tegiwa ones are. I'm using these NKG's and they are fine. http://www.eightspeed.co.uk/acatalog/EP3_Ignition.html

I've not really had chance to test it out. The traffic coming home was an absolute nightmare, took nearly an hour and a half for what is normally a 20 minute trip.Clutch leg numb! First impressions are that the ride quality has improved and the turn in definetly feels a lot sharper. I also had...

Twas nice to say hello today SiKBoY, ATR sounded awesome when you left. :) I for one will definetly be using grinspeed again, superb service from steve, need to start saving for that LSD.

EK9 = 1090kg EP3= 1195kg FN2= 1267kg FD2=1252kg DC5=? not to sure seen a range of figures from 1195kg to 1260kg.

Just leave it be. There's a drainage hole (I'm assuming the tegiwa has one) and the oil in the filter will stop any water passing. Just don't do anything stupid like putting hose down there when washing and it'll be fine.