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http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?187-TDi-North

Then surely you would know if for your requirements fitting a thicker one would be the right thing to do?

Do you even understand the reasons behind changing the rear ARB?

If you buy the correct Kaaz diff then yes it will go in no problems.

Why on earth did you swap the sensors over?

Less important than the radio IMO.

I couldn't even reach the f*cking radio when I ran harnesses.

Why on earth would you kill your clutch and flywheel by doing some skids in the snow?

There isn't anywhere in the midlands. Best to drive the short trip up to TDi North.

It'll be a tyre, geometry, weight distribution and driver issue. Look at all of those before throwing huge amounts of money at suspension and track tyres.

Yes.

A FRSU will work fine for occasional track use.

Or Quaife/Wavetrac style diffs which are easier to drive with IMO and maintenance free.

http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?151-Petrol-amp-Oil

They're lighter, stronger and have a better calliper to pad contact. For what they are they are too expensive when you can go to a full bbk with floating discs etc.. for not that much more.

Well considering a 10w40 is an engine oil, a gearbox oil is going to be more of a 70w80, one can only assume you have no idea wtf you're talking about. Even on the Fuchs website, it lists Titan XTR 10w40 under engine oil, not transmission oil. Obviously you know best, so have fun.

Sound proof the boot and foot wells if it's exhaust noise you're worried about Darren, doing the roof won't help much on the noise front when it's all coming from infront and behind you. It'll just add more weight in the one place you don't want to put weight IMO.

That's good, use an engine oil over a dedicated gearbox oil in your gearbox.

Toyo Proxes Yokohama Parada

A softer rear ARB would reduce lift off oversteer in general, a thicker one will make the rear more active, hence creating less understeer.

RAVS not RAYS.

A stiffer rear arb will make the car more tail happy.

Might as well just get the JDM ARB as that's 22mm isn't it?

I lost the hosting when me.com changed to icloud, and i've got no idea where the original file is, sorry man.

I've never understood the point of running an additional rpm gauge when there's a massive one right in front of you from the factory?

My advice would be stick to normal road tyres for your first few track days, you'll learn far more.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=what+is+OBD1

There is no easy way to get loads more power out of them, so if you want more power, it's easier to sell it and buy another car. Oh, and have a read of this http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?69042-View-on-Text-Speak

Sell it and buy a more powerful car.

If you're such an expert, why does this thread exist in the first place?

Buddyclub rails fit side mount buckets seats rather than Recaro recliners. If you can get some Recaro runners from an EP3 then they'll fit, as well a certain Bride runners and probably a few others.

Buy all the bits, get them fitted and mapped at the same time.

In theory it'll help dial out some understeer and make the rear end of the car more active when driving hard, but for normal road use it just makes the car feel more neutral and stable.

Do you mean oval not overall? Home? Kill me now.

It can also be uneven tyre pressures.

There are technical sections for you to ask these questions, Gen Chat is not the place.

I used to travel from Somerset to TDi North, it's not a bad drive up and back tbh.

Area Motorsport might be closer? http://www.areamotorsport.co.uk/contact.aspx

Read it again, and again, and again until you see it.

Sorry dude but that's rubbish. The engine can't tell if it's fully synth or semi synth. Some dealers put semi synth in, others fully synth, and i've NEVER heard of VTEC not engaging due to someone running semi synth. Fully synth is recommended due to a higher level of protection and performance...

Blank or grooved are the way forward on track cars IMO, very high end 'drilled discs' are ok, but still might suffer from a shorter life span. My issue with first time track goers and running semi slicks is you don't learn as much as being on a tyre that'll move around and they just end up...

If it's a first ever track day then running semi slicks is a bad idea, as is running them without a baffled sump. Also keep an eye on your discs as most drilled discs are turd on track and can crack.

It does, 4th through 6th are shorter on the Japanese car.

http://www.clockwisemotion.co.uk/index/honda-k20-baffled-sump.html

Take it somewhere that know's how to make rollcages. They aren't something you want to get wrong IMO.

I hate how the concept looks, the HSV-10 is such a good looking car, I can't see why Honda would not take at least some of the styling from that to the NSX replacement.

At a guess you'd need to change the mounts, at least part of the wiring loom, and the S80 gearbox won't work with the H22A. You'd also need new driveshafts etc.. It's not going to be a straight swap.

You can't remap the stock ECU so it's null and void for most Hondas.

Well AFAIK he couldn't run a 420hp turbo car in VTEC Challenge, unless they have an open type class set for next year? Time Attack you're competing against the clock to set the fastest lap times. VTEC challenge is full racing, two very difference disciplines. If Tom has limited track experience...

VTEC challenge is full racing, Time Attack isn't.

Maybe try tracking it first before deciding Time Attack is the route to go?

DS2500 are a much better pad than any EBC pad i've tried.

7.5 with standard, 11 if you're using a HAMP.

I think it's now 7.5 litres.

£60 to fit a cat back, f*cking LOL.

If you're changing the bushes, then the arms come out, therefore the front geometry will need to be checked and adjusted accordingly.

Don't get drilled discs for track use. Plain or grooved will stand up much better.

If you're building a track car, then get some proven track fluid like Motul RBF600.

Or maybe say what wheels you've got?

Nitron.

I've seen a lot of his retrims on beemers, always looks like top work. Glad he got you sorted out man.

215/40/17 is a better choice than a 215/45. It's closer to the stock rolling radius.

Bugger all point decatting without getting it mapped anyway, you don't make any gains.

It's better to run matching tyres front and rear than mixing and matching if you can avoid it.

Don't bother with EBC yellowstuff, they're turd.

The STP additives are good, and do what they say they do if you want to go that route.

I like the blue, wing mirrors should be done to match the splitter IMO.

Yep i'd say so.

If you go into Honda, and tell them you want a rocker cover bolt, and show them the exact bit you want on the parts diagram that he'll bring up. It's a pretty common thing to happen when a rocker cover is refitted, doesn't take much to snap one of them. The parts guy @ Honda Brislington is...

Fine.

Or could be a baffle. I had a baffle let go on a buddyclub system within 100miles of it being fitted.

Not worth it once you factor in fitting for what is only a mildly uprated cam IMO.

To get any real benefit from it you'd still need a remap.

No it won't.

Why not take it somewhere that can actually diagnose the issue rather than you just spending money on parts in the hope that it *might* solve the problem?

This, they are £80 each in 195/50/15, so an 18" is going to be closer to £150 per tyre i'd have thought.

Are you sure that's a price for AD08's Mark? As that seems pretty cheap for two.

I've got no experience personally in the wet dude, but from people who I know running them on pretty big power applications haven't complained. They won't like heavy standing water but on normal wet/damp roads I can't see them being a problem. It's just a case of common sense in the end when...

Absolutely fine. AD08s are the best for dry grip out of that lot without a doubt.

What about them?

The bypass isn't a direct fit on the EP3 kit, you have to chop a section out IIRC to make it fit.

Look above his last picture.

Kaaz diff is a plate diff, you'd definitely feel that, especially when slow speed maneuvering, ie in a car park.

The rules. Read them.

OEM.

Just ignore him dude.

8.5 is the width, not the offset.

If you've got a set for the rear then run them on the front as well, at least the car will be balanced then.

Anything is easy if you know how to do it and have the experience and tools to do so. Gearbox removal is one thing, opening it up is another and then removing and refitting things correctly is a complicated procedure, if you know what you're doing, it's still complicated, but you know how. For...

No, just using real words might help.

I'll*

Seriously?

http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?146-Intake-amp-Exhaust

Years ago when we ran a back to back intake test on the same dyno, on the same car on the same day, the ITG made the most low down torque of all the intakes, GruppeM made the most top end power, with the AEM and ITG coming in behind the GruppeM respectively.

To get beaten, you imply you've tried to race them no? And you're whinging about TDi drivers trying to race you.

So you're complaining about TDi drivers, but yet state that if cars have 'beaten' you, you don't bother. So you've tried it on, just as the TDi drivers have, and lost, just as the TDi drivers have. Awesome.

Honda discs are more than good enough.