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I have an alloy wheel with a very small dent/buckle after hitting a pot hole, so it's no longer perfectly round. Just needs a little straightening. Does anyone know of a reasonably priced repairer in North London? All the ones I know only do cosmetic repairs and not structural repairs. Thanks :)

Should be pretty straightforward. Do a search for footwell lights to see how to get power. But essentially you can take power from the cabin fusebox. Just find an empty slot that's live when the doors open, use a piggyback fuse to hardwire into it, ground to chassis and chase the wire back...

Looks awful IMO but the engine spec sounds nice! Doesn't the FN2 have torsion beam?

Cheers mate, I'll check them out. :)

Can someone recommend a decent but reasonably priced custom exhaust garage in the North London area? I'm after a stainless steel exhaust backbox. Never had one before so hope they don't need to keep the car overnight. Cheers :)

Thanks mate. I'd be looking at getting close to 400bhp, as you say about 370bhp would be plenty but I have read some people in the US have managed to get bit more though obviously a lot depends on the dyno used. Having said that, it is already pretty quick in stock form and I've read (and can...

Yeah I don't like it either. I've been busy looking for a good brushed aluminium vinyl to wrap it or just wait for a good used set of genuine ones off ebay. I thought about carbon, but I'm quite fussy about carbon having had a few carbon bits before so imo all the carbon-look vinyl I've seen so...

The edit function gives me a blank message box even in advance. No idea why. :confused: Anyway, here are the photos

Hmm, not sure what happened with the photos. I can't seem to go back and edit the links. Can a mod help please? Ta!

Some of you may remember that I wrote-off my EP3 back in January but only got the pay out a few months later. Anyway, that’s all sorted now and I’ve been busy looking for a replacement ever since. Thought I’d share with you guys what I’ve been driving around in over the past few weeks and do...

If you're after more power and torque, I have a plug and play Unichip for sale... http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?87947

Actually, despite what most people think and also some saying the A/C is designed for demisting, I don't think the A/C is actually best for demisting. If we think of the bathroom mirror effect, the reason it steams up is because the mirror is cold. So steam will condense on it. Same as our...

Don't bother. It won't be bright enough or last long enough.

The mechanic spotted it when I had my last service, but he said it wasn't really critical and wouldn't fail an MOT so I've just left it. But now the weathers nice, I thought I'd see if I can sort it out myself. He said there's been some wear on the side of the bottle so best to replace it...

I have a loose radiator reservoir bottle on my EP3. It’s also rubbed against something so will need replacing. Does anyone know how to replace it? Is it a straightforward task or is it a trip to the garage? Not sure if I’ve got my terminology right but it’s the bottle circled here. I...

Faulty O2 sensor?

I'll be selling mine sometime this year, probably around summer time if you're still looking then. Silver 03 plate, 60k miles, perfect condition and good mods.

No disrepect, but that's not very interesting.

Beautiful car mate! I've always loved the 135i and have seriously considered getting one to replace my EP. It was either a cayman or a 135i. The 1M is one of my favourite cars around but at £40k+ its a bit out of reach! The 135i seems a lot of car for the money and it's definitely still on my...

And if you're after the pre-07 version (**) and want to know more about it give me a shout. My wife has the 1.4 Sport SE with a few mods - excellent car imo.

I aways carry a spare button battery in my wallet just in case this ever happens.

I change my own air filter, spark plugs, pads, discs and now oil. So all I do is go to honda for the most basic service every year just to get the service stamp and to check that all is still in order and sometimes get the tappets done. I didn't used to do oil as I didn't know how to get rid of...

I'm sure most people knew that I meant OEM honda ones.

For discs, the Mintex ones are as good as OEM ones but much cheaper. Their pads are pants though so best to stick with Honda pads. A lot of people have bought discs and pads off ebay including myself.

Yeah I know, which is why I don't use the private lounge at work. I think its mainly the avatars and every now and again there are really borderline imagines outside the private lounge posted - which I don't have a problem with, but as lottie said if your boss happens to walk past it ain't gonna...

This might be too much work to do but I thought I'd stick the idea on here and see what others think. Is it possible to have an option in preferences where you can choose to view a work-safe/friendly version of the whole forum? For example, in the work safe/friendly version we might have...

I just remembered you've only got them in the rear, you're hardly going to notice any difference as the brake bias is pretty much all towards the front wheels. If you had these on the front you'll notice a massive drop in stopping power.

You will probably find the mintex bite well for the first 50miles or so then you will be wanting to go back to OEM pads as they really are pants. Their discs are fine though, I have them on my EP3 at the moment and they're essentially the same as OEM.

I have one, does nothing.

I think it looks ok, better than without imo. But being matt grey you probably struggle to notice it anyway. I personally would have had it in white. Looking at the existing scratch marks on the underside of the bumper though, it won't be long before it gets knocked off and probably driven...

what I've noticed is if you use thin oils like the silkolene pro s or whatever it's called now, the engine consumes this stuff like there's no tomorrow. But when you use the bog standard stuff that honda supplies (which imo is just as good) there is no real drop in levels at all between services.

Well, it does vary quite a bit. I've heard of prices in excess of £300 for a bonnet respray. But if you're good at haggling and do a bit of homework you should be able to get it down to around £150. I paid £125 cash about 3 years ago.

£150 approx. as it usually includes blending into the side wings.

Most of the time it is the resin that changes colour as it reacts with UV. A quality lacquer will be fairly good against UV but it is by no means completely UV proof. The lacquer on a carbon piece is there for shine and a little protection. It's a very thin coat above the gelcoat so I would be...

Yeah, it's usually the case. Aftermarket bulbs are a bit hit and miss. But to be honest mate, I wouldn't go near 10k bulbs. Not only will the colour get you noticed and possibly stopped by the police, you're losing a lot of light on the road. On a dark road you'll probably find they're much...

Sounds like the terminals inside the bulb are not aligned properly to allow it to arc easily - i.e. the bulb probably needs replacing. Swop the bulbs around to see if it's the bulb not working or the ballast is gone. My money would be on the dud bulb.

The kit(s) from halfords are crap. I found the colour match is usually way off. You're better off using the paint from the honda touch up pen which is a far closer match usually. First thing to do is to clean out as must rust as you can with something like a nylon brush/old toothbrush, then...

It might work out cheaper if you find a good condition splitter or bumper off ebay, a scrapyard or one of the forums. You can then sell your one to make up some of the cost. £165-£180 is not far off for something like this though. I paid about £125 for a similar scratch but that was about 6...

The paint will have a clearcoat lacquer on top, so unless you scratched it really badly when removing the paint, all it will need is a good polish and the paint will be as good as new. You won't need it wrapped.

How bad is it? Post a pic of the damage, you might be able to polish it out yourself.

That's exactly the reason why there is a kick up splay. But without an auto-levelling device you will still blind oncoming drivers when you go over a crest or if your car is pointing higher than oncoming traffic. It's easy to pass the MOT with projectors as they tolerate a larger error margin...

The problem with aftermarket kits is there are very few that has near perfect geometry, particularly for the pre-facelift EP3 (H4 bulb). Not sure what car you've got, but if it is a PFL EP3 then most aftermarket kits will have sh1t geometry which means the beam pattern would be a mess. The way...

I think you've misunderstood me mate. I know waxing is important, I wax everytime I wash my car. But if I've washed and sealed it, then forgot to wax, chances are there would have been a build up of dirt, dust, pollen or even bird sh1t or tree sap etc which means waxing now would be...

I wouldn't bother waxing it. As said, there's so much dust about at the moment you're wasting your time and effort imo. If you've sealed it that should be enough until the next wash. But next time make sure to wax it as well.

I've just found out that the air con in my EP3 has packed up. Just blows hot air... never had it serviced but have had a mesh on the grill from day one. Could it just be low on gas or something more serious? Also how can I tell its low on gas and can I top it up myself?

:confused::confused:

Well put Earthslug. So the answer to the OP's question is yes it will make a difference and far more so from a rolling start. The cheapest way to stand a chance against him in your stock EP3 is to remove as much weight from your car as possible (seats, carpet, spare tyre, interior trim...

The problem with the standard engine is that there is no torque at low revs for a 7th gear but once you've chipped it with good breathing mods, there is quite a jump in torque between 2-3.5k rpm... so it might be possible...

There's no way you can get genuine new mugen pedals for £20. It's got fake written all over it... not saying they're not as good but if you want genuine Mugen, you have to pay for it.

Hats off to you sir, always great to see other people's DIY efforts. I used to make a lot of my own stuff as well GRP, CF etc but stopped it all in the end as the styrene was doing my head in. That stuff is nasty work! I personally wouldn't bother doing the throttle body myself as you won't...

Yep, but it can come on early if you park on a slope so possibly more. I once drove for about 25miles after the red light came on then I chickened out! lol Also just for the record, I noticed that in the EP3 you can put in an extra 2L of petrol after it clicks... can't seem to do that in our...

I can't remember which type of Mintex pads I've got on but I think they're *****. First 200 miles or so they had good bite, minimal brake dust and wear but after that it's like someone's sprayed WD40 on them. Worst pads I've ever had, but best in terms of brake dust. I'll be going back to OEM or...

I tried the rain-x stuff, yes it sheds water better but you still can't see as well as could with wipers on imo. For fine shallow scratches on the glass you can use glass polish such as jeweller's rouge. I tried it before with a crappy hand polisher, didn't work but I read that this is the...

I average about 300miles with light mods. Driving sensibly in the summer, I can get up to about 350miles/tank.

I would leave the front as it is and have dark tints in the rear. Then put the money you save on the front towards some JDM wind deflectors! :)

I love the Legalis R and was going to buy one then I asked myself what I actually wanted from it. Since I only wanted a bit of performance and keep the stock look it was actually better just to keep the OEM backbox and upgrade the rest, i.e. mid-pipe, header etc. The backbox is not very...

Reminds me of the time when someone had a bright idea about putting helium in tyres... yeah mate, the saving in weight would add another 100bhp/tonne! Stick some in the spare wheel too! :lol:

Not sure what material it's made from but would suspect it would be aluminium or an alu-alloy. If so, you may struggle to find a good alu-welder as aluminium is notoriously difficult to weld well.

Actually Chris, I would leave it for a couple of weeks before you clean it. A few years ago new laws came in for automotive paints to be water-based instead of solvent based. This meant that drying and curing times took a lot longer. My experience of using both types of paints is that the new...

I've been using both the Tesco and Ebay ones. Ebay ones are still going strong after about 4 months but they seem to press down on the windscreen quite firmly and seems to slow down the the wipers a bit. I've only installed the tescos ones over the weekend on the missus's jazz. Seem ok so far...

You probably get wrist slapped by one of the mods for posting it in here but from memory I think you just need to pry it out. On the back of the mirror is the heating element harness which is on a small bracket that clicks into the wing mirror housing. I know this because some idiot clipped my...

I think it looks much better with tints especially on a silver, white or red ep3. But it would have to be dark tints, light smoke doesn't seem right imo.

Should cost ~£25 a window Would cost ~£50 a window FYI I paid £25/window about 4-5 yrs ago

I had this problem when I bought my battery from halfords, the chap just took the collars off another battery and put it on mine.

If you can detach the legs from the spoiler and give them the legs only it should be cheaper. Also if you do a bit of shopping around you should be able to get it done for about £60.

Bizarre as it sounds, apparently peanut butter is what you need.

Go on then. Though it probably only tells us how heavy your right foot is each month.

No idea which one you're talking about mate, but if it ain't broke...

Not entirely true. Most are tunable (e.g. Unichip) but are more limited in what can be tweaked. Depending on the mods on the car, the gains from a piggyback ECU can be comparable to that of a K100/KPro.

I'm glad you posted that. I knew this when everyone was paying £200+ for a kit a few years back from these hidblablabla.co.uk sites but if I had said anything then I'd get flamed and banned from CTRO! lol :p

Having said that, if you're not a perfectionist, I would be tempted to just touch up, flat and polish.

This will need to be filled and resprayed mate. Although you said you've bent it back, it is almost impossible to bend it back to how it was before, especially in that position. Chances are there will be some high or low points that can show up if you resprayed it as it is. PDR technicians may...

Good advice. But be careful with selecting the colour temperature. They vary a lot as these numbers are generally bumped up as people used to think the higher the number the brighter it is (not so!). So you're better off asking the seller which one gives you the colour you want. 99% of...

Unichip does work and works very well. I have had my mine for about 5 years now and I can't fault it. Much more torque at low revs and vtec pulls harder. I haven't noticed any fuel consumption differences but most people aren't too bothered about this. It isn't as comprehensive as K100/KPro...

http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?22186-Chipping-An-explanation-for-beginners

If you suspect the ballast has gone, swap the ballasts or bulbs around to see. If its the ballast, just get yourself one off ebay, no real difference tbh. Just make sure the spec and plugs are the same.

Thanks for the how to's... but there's a few things I want to know. 1. Do you need to apply Dielectric Grease to the coil pack when changing the plugs? I heard that you are supposed to use Dielectric Grease on the connectors to seal them from moisture etc? 2. What is the copper lubricant you...

Any photos?

Can't believe the calipers are sticking at under 24k miles. I had my first front caliper stick at about 55k+ miles...

That's different to the one I have. This is the one I have:

Yep, there’s a technical term for this exercise, it’s called “trying it on”.

Wind the clock back a couple of years ago, that would have been an outrageous statement for normal petrol. I'm sure £2/litre is inevitable... :(

I'm using Crescent tools (US) very good quality and cheaper than most decent brands. Got them from Costco. Halfords Professional range are pretty good, a lot of Snap-On tools are rebranded ones but are generally pretty good. If you are looking for a near-complete set of tools for working on a...

Clay won't do anything for the paintwork to be honest. It will just remove any left over bird sh1t after washing. We all know bird sh1t is corrosive so what it actually does is etch itself into the lacquer permanently, and basically destroys the paintwork. So, the solution depends on how early...

Ah ok, I thought he meant at any time, i.e when it's warm as well.

I thought most engines are supposed to idle below 1k rpm? My EP3 has always idled around 900rpm from new?

There should be quite a lot of info on this, have you tried searching? Basically, bi-xenon uses a solenoid to give you HID for both main and dipped beam. Hi/Lo kits only give you HID for dipped and uses a filament bulb for main which is pretty crap tbh. So I'd go for a bi-xenon kit, and you...

Are these "through" holes and not just chips in the lacquer/gelcoat? If so, can't see how you could repair holes as wide as an inch on a bonnet and still keep the carbon look to be honest... If it's down to the weave, you're not looking at just re-lacquering, you're looking at repairing the...

Thanks, PM sent.

My wife and I both have had our cars insured with Sky for a number of years now. We've been fairly happy with them to date although there are others around that are just as cheap but Sky are quite local to me so we thought we'd stick with them. However, my wife's just received the renewal quote...

What is this? Where does it go?

Welcome to the forum mate. It's a tight squeeze behind the headlight unit but if you can get your hand behind it you need to unplug the harness, remove the rubber seal then find the metal wire retaining clip which you need to push in and slightly to one side to release it. Once you've done...

How does it work? Does it just increase the velocity of the air flow on open cone filters?

Looking to get some for the EP3. Do you need one for all 4 wheels or just the front driven wheels? Also, wheres the cheapest place to get these?

If you can't get one... I've read about people using silicone sealants to make a gasket/seal as a cheap but effective alternative to getting a OEM one. Obviously you let it dry on the light unit before installing it back on.

Yeah that's what I'm saying. When you buy 8000K you're actually getting 5000-6000K. It's just the manufacturer bumping up the rating. So there's no real point comparing or advising which temp to go for as they're all so inaccurate. Best off just asking the seller for the colour you want, i.e...

In my experience most colour temp ratings for aftermarket HID kits are miles out because people used to think that the higher the temperature the brighter it is. So manufacturers used to bump up the rating by anything up to 2000K to attract sales. Most aftermarket 6000K is more like 4700K-ish...

Yes they are the same. Two in the front (map lights) and one in the rear.

You're very welcome. Glad it's been of use to others. Shame there are a few gaps which hopefully owners of those cars can confirm what they are.

Well I'd certainly hope it doesn't otherwise there's no point in paying extra for it! However compared to what was normal shell 95ron, fuelsave doesn't seem a lot different to v-power. And given that some people don't actually notice the benefits of v-power in the first place, this fuelsave...